On paper it should be scary fast. On the road, not so much

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abodyjoe said:
unless someone has opened it up and changed the cam timing i doubt thats the issue.
Click to expand...
Years ago a buddy put a 408 together for his Duster. It had a lot of goodies...enough to run mid 11's. It wasn't even close. Couldn't even do a burnout with it. It sounded pretty loud with the headers open so I asked him what the cam was set at. He didn't know. After chasing his tail with all kinds of other checks including a new converter, different gears and on and on, he finally pulled the timing chain cover to find out it was 7 degrees retarded. Just indicating off the rockers will tell ya something....so long as you know for sure if TDC is correct. That can be checked too with a piston stop screwed in. Hydraulic lifters might not be very helpful though. Don't know since I've never degreed in a cam using one.
 
CreepyCranky said:
Years ago a buddy put a 408 together for his Duster. It had a lot of goodies...enough to run mid 11's. It wasn't even close. Couldn't even do a burnout with it. It sounded pretty loud with the headers open so I asked him what the cam was set at. He didn't know. After chasing his tail with all kinds of other checks including a new converter, different gears and on and on, he finally pulled the timing chain cover to find out it was 7 degrees retarded. Just indicating off the rockers will tell ya something....so long as you know for sure if TDC is correct. That can be checked too with a piston stop screwed in. Hydraulic lifters might not be very helpful though. Don't know since I've never degreed in a cam using one.
Click to expand...
We're assuming the engine has not been apart, but don't know. OP: is there any indication that the front cover or intake has been off? Blueprint seriously glues the cover & intake so it should be obvious if they've been off. If they have not been off, I would not be concerned about the cam degree. The BP folks run their engines on their dyno before shipping & provide the sheet from the run.
 
I would bet a bag of donuts it's an initial timing issue.

I don't know who Blue Collar Customs is, but rod shops typically aren't known for their tuning abilities. Most of the time, they're Chevy/Ford guys that set the initial to 12° to 14° and call it good. Small Block Chryslers LOVE more timing. Mine is set at 22° to 24° initial

I'd verify that first before I dug any deeper.
 
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Yes, experiment with ignition timing for sure. Advance it a few degrees and if the engine pings at operating temp but responds well to the added timing, add a gallon of race fuel and see if the ping goes away. Also check your total timing to make sure it's not too much. If it doesn't respond to the added ignition timing....
 
Uglypedro said:
VERTFISH

So, some of you might know this barracuda as #projectvertfish. Here's some info I copied from one of Mopar Vince's posts.
$$$$$$$$$$$$$
I went with the Blueprintengines stroker 408 based on the Magnum 360. Since it has a roller cam and rockers there is no worries about the cam going flat like with a flat tappet cam. I really like the version I got with a distributor and carb making sure the combo I have is how it was run on the dyno.
I mated it to a TCI Street fighter 904 torque flight using a B&M flexplate made for the externally balance 99-03 magnum 360. I had to enlarge one hole on my lower crank pulley to get it to line up. Another thing was the need to use the bolt on timing mark pointer from my 273 and to make the new mark on the harmonic to match because I used the early style short water pump with the lower hose to the radiator on the driver's side.
Performance wise, it is tame enough to drive daily but has enough power to light the tires at any time. I am super happy overall.
Here is the dyno sheet

and

View attachment 1716533037
Click to expand...
Sleeeper!
 
How did post #31 test check out? I see it has a plastic master cylinder reservoir. Maybe the rod is a touch too long. I've seen it before. It turns them into a real dog. Plus what is that adapter thingy on the master cylinder.
 
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Bodyperson said:
How did post #31 test check out? I see it has a plastic master cylinder reservoir. Maybe the rod is a touch too long. I've seen it before. It turns them into a real dog. Plus what is that adapter thingy on the master cylinder.
Click to expand...
I had that happen to my truck once. I replaced the master cylinder and the front brakes had JUST enough drag that they would heat up and all but lock the front rotors down. I had to adjust the master cylinder pushrod a little shorter due to differing tolerances in the new master cylinder. I diagnosed it by loosening the nuts on the master cylinder. It freed the rotors right up so I knew what to do.
 
Uglypedro said:
Like I said Mopar Vince installed it and Blue Collar Customs in Sacramento did the timing and tune last week.
Click to expand...
was it the same, better or worse after?

Uglypedro said:
The power mostly shows up after 2500rpm, it's just the getting started part. At idle and throttle, you wouldn't know there's a problem. Sounds great.
Click to expand...
you have a 500+ lift 290 duration cam backed up by 3.23's so without a bunch of stall that's going to be L-A-Z-Y down town. add in a tune that's not en pointe and it only magnifies the short coming.
 
kiwigtx said:
With my BluePrint 408, I have to change tyres twice between oil changes. :lol:



Real world experience...not keyboard yap. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Running the original 3.23 gears from my GTX in the A100 now.....no problems frying the hides. :lol:
 
RustyRatRod said:
I had that happen to my truck once. I replaced the master cylinder and the front brakes had JUST enough drag that they would heat up and all but lock the front rotors down. I had to adjust the master cylinder pushrod a little shorter due to differing tolerances in the new master cylinder. I diagnosed it by loosening the nuts on the master cylinder. It freed the rotors right up so I knew what to do.
Click to expand...
me too. bent a K frame that way...
 
Johnny Mac said:
good point. no idea if the timing marks align on the pre 1970 cover with the post 1970 damper marks. would need verified regardless.
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Would it even run with the wrong combo of damper and cover? I don't have enough experience with them to know if you would have to advance it crazily or go the other way for it to start up....
 
CreepyCranky said:
Would it even run with the wrong combo of damper and cover? I don't have enough experience with them to know if you would have to advance it crazily or go the other way for it to start up....
Click to expand...
Good Question...i'm not crazy familiar with the pre 70 timing cover options...but if it's on the passenger side...lord knows what timing would actually be at if lined up on the other side.

I think he mentioned a bolt on timing tab...that might even be a POLY cover...I don't know if i have ever come across that. but you'd need to buy a timing tape and glue it over the etched #'s on the damper.
1776440888606.png
 
CreepyCranky said:
Would it even run with the wrong combo of damper and cover? I don't have enough experience with them to know if you would have to advance it crazily or go the other way for it to start up....
Click to expand...
It would run but you couldn't time it right with a wrong combination of balancer and timing tab.
 
Build an engine and it is usually on TDC #1. Drop the distributor in and snap in the plug wires. It should be close to TDC even if the balancer doesn't show it. It will start but not run with much power. It may also get hot because the timing is so retarded.
 
toolmanmike said:
It would run but you couldn't time it right with a wrong combination of balancer and timing tab.
Click to expand...
Time it by 'ear' and how it drives. I've timed many engines like that.....time it until it pings then back it off some. High compression engines are a bit more picky about that but can still do it.
 
he said that he's using a early cover and timing tab and remarked the balancer.

that's the way it would be done, or more aptly, can be done.

now whether that's been done correctly is a whole 'nother matter.

but again, we're kind of in the dark here. was it always crap, or did it just suddenly turn to crap? and without OP's input it's just all WAG and HSSITD.
 
@Uglypedro

Sometimes, these types of threads end up just frustrating the OP, and all of the posters trying to help. Sometimes the OP just disappears, and sometimes he'll say, "Thanks for the help, folks, it seems better now", but nothing was resolved.

"Mopar Vince" doesn't come up when I try to tag him. He could help a lot here.

Pedro, you could help a lot by providing more info. (To specific posts asking you for SPECIFIC info.) Also, if your automotive knowledge (or lack of it), precludes you from answering, NO PROBLEM! That's why your're on here asking for help! Just tell us! If you need help, get someone to respond who can actually look at your car and relate his findings to us.

It's hard enough to diagnose problems in person. By written word can be near impossible. Your idea of "it sounds and runs great", can be entirely different than everyone else's.
It's all subjective.

Yeeeears ago, I help a friend tune his (69) 340 4 Spd '66 Barracuda. It was all stock, and ran so-so. I curved the distributor, and loosened up the secondary air flap. (I was tempted to move the seat up a notch and put a lighter throttle spring on it. -Just kiddin' :D) He thought I was God. It was no big deal, but if he tried to do that in writing, it woulda been a disaster.
 

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