On paper it should be scary fast. On the road, not so much

[toolmanmike]

Yes, they do. But as of now, the engine's been through at least two owners that we know of. So who knows what who did?

 

[RustyRatRod]

Yeah you get the idea. lol

 

[Uglypedro]

Like I said Mopar Vince installed it and Blue Collar Customs in Sacramento did the timing and tune last week. The power mostly shows up after 2500rpm, it's just the getting started part. At idle and throttle, you wouldn't know there's a problem. Sounds great.

 

[Mattax]

Do a brake stall test.
Someplace safe with the engine warmed up, left foot hard on the brake pedal, give the engine throttle quickly but smoothly up to the point where the rpm stops climbing. Now we have a reference point for the converter.
Lower stall converter will make it more difficult to tune strong at lower rpm.

A combo with 240* duration would want minimum of 16* BTDC initial. Probably more like 18*

Article 'Distributor starting point for a curve'

I get a lot of questions where my distributor curve should start this is a great guideline of different engine combinations and a good area of where the mechanical portion of the curve should be. I have been looking for something like this for a while Thanks Mattax!

• halifaxhops
• Apr 29, 2018
• 1 min read
• Category: Engine, Transmission & Drivetrain

This and the begining of the curve can make a huge difference off the line.
That said, a factory 318 is going to have great response because its cammed to be efficient at relatively low rpm.

 

[Mattax]

Same engine, same car, same tires (BFG Radial T/A) no tire spin off the line (drag strip) no matter what I did.
Best Reaction time: 0.197 and Best 60' 2.20 sec

Installed headers and Tweaked timing curve and it needed to be eased off the line or the tires would spin.
Reaction time: 0.179 and 60' 2.02 sec

This is with a standard stroke and 230* cam and converter with roughly 2700 stall.

Top end was stronger too but the headers play a big role there.,

 

[dr dodge]

Did you leave the E brake on?

I was thinking rear brake or rear end drag
park on a level surface and put in neutral and see if it pushes

 

[gzig5]

If it pulls hard above 3000rpm I'd say it's timing, carb adjustment, or the torque converter. If not, a compression check and maybe verifying cam timing might be in order.

 

[Murray]

What rear end ratio?

 

[Johnny Mac]

Just asking, does Blueprint dyno every engine? If so, you don't need to touch it. Install it and destroy tires.

Yes. every single one. thanks!

 

[Johnny Mac]

Thanks Joe and RRR for the info and tagging me up to this point. We have guys drop these in A bodies and run 11.20's.

as everyone here has stated prior, I'd lean on the converter, and then gearing after that. I have personally seen cars go from running 14.50's to 12.20's. (YES 2.3 seconds) from a converter change. An off the shelf converter for $400 is always going to leave something on the table. usually alot. some of those TCI and B&M transmissions are attractive to buyers b/c of the price, but you get what you pay for.

w/o knowing what converter is in it, i'd have it out and on the floor already, and be calling YANK / Gearstar to get one custom made. and i wouldn't expect an off the shelf TCI trans to live for a long time behind something with 500 ft lbs.

happy to help the OP. just shoot me a PM or post here.

I don't see gear ratio given either. anything is going to be doggy with 2.76's...

 

[FourSpeedDemon]

OP states 3.23’s in the first paragraph

 

[Illahe]

The guy I bought it from did an 80% restoration, doing most of the work himself. I received a ton of paperwork/ receipts and while I found the receipt for the 904 from TCI, I cant find one for the torque converter. How can I find out what size it is? Suppose I can call the dude...

if you have a tach, roll down the block in drive very slow and slam it to the floor! While watching the tach. Should be pretty close to your flash stall point.

What is your camshaft specs:

• 236 Intake / 242 Exhaust Duration? You should be around 2800~ flash with this cam.

And..."TCI and B&M transmissions are attractive to buyers b/c of the price, but you get what you pay for." You have no idea how the throttle apply pressure and band apply ratio is set up at this point.

 

[BSB67]

Like I said Mopar Vince installed it and Blue Collar Customs in Sacramento did the timing and tune last week. The power mostly shows up after 2500rpm, it's just the getting started part. At idle and throttle, you wouldn't know there's a problem. Sounds great.

You need to give us some data and specifics.

1) what is the cylinder cranking pressure
2) what exactly did the ignition/carb tuning do. Details matter. Be specific.
3) what are the cam specifications
4) go to the track and run the car and post the time slips, or go to a chassis dyno.
5) Provide several pictures of the engine.

Without this info, everybody is guessing. Provide this info, and the folks on here will start you down the path of solid suggestions.

I have two cars. One will not spin the tires, but is pretty fast and runs as it should. The other car will melt the tires from just about any rolling speed of 40 mph or less. This car is slow and low on power.

Your opening description is simply not that useful for diagnosing your car’s performance.

 

[Uglypedro]

VERTFISH

So, some of you might know this barracuda as #projectvertfish. Here's some info I copied from one of Mopar Vince's posts.
$$$$$$$$$$$$$
I went with the Blueprintengines stroker 408 based on the Magnum 360. Since it has a roller cam and rockers there is no worries about the cam going flat like with a flat tappet cam. I really like the version I got with a distributor and carb making sure the combo I have is how it was run on the dyno.
I mated it to a TCI Street fighter 904 torque flight using a B&M flexplate made for the externally balance 99-03 magnum 360. I had to enlarge one hole on my lower crank pulley to get it to line up. Another thing was the need to use the bolt on timing mark pointer from my 273 and to make the new mark on the harmonic to match because I used the early style short water pump with the lower hose to the radiator on the driver's side.
Performance wise, it is tame enough to drive daily but has enough power to light the tires at any time. I am super happy overall.
Here is the dyno sheet

and

 

[Uglypedro]

Only now it has headers

 

[273]

Plus tire size can have a decent effect on final ratio, 29” vs 26” is similar to one step in gearing like 3.23 vs 3.55.

 

[mopowers]

Even with a stock converter, that thing should smoke the tires at will. Something isn't right.

 

[kiwigtx]

With my BluePrint 408, I have to change tyres twice between oil changes.



Real world experience...not keyboard yap.

 

[abodyjoe]

Performance wise, it is tame enough to drive daily but has enough power to light the tires at any time. I am super happy overall.

so whats different between then and now?

 

[Cranky]

I didn't read every single post but what I did read hasn't mentioned anything about where the cam was degreed in at.....I'm wondering if it's retarded based on what the OP has said how the car acts.

 

[Johnny Mac]

OP states 3.23’s in the first paragraph

thanks, missed that!

 

[FourSpeedDemon]

thanks, missed that!

I had to re-read it myself

 

[abodyjoe]

but what I did read hasn't mentioned anything about where the cam was degreed in at.....I'm wondering if it's retarded based on what the OP has said how the car acts.

unless someone has opened it up and changed the cam timing i doubt thats the issue.

 

[abodyjoe]

Another thing was the need to use the bolt on timing mark pointer from my 273 and to make the new mark on the harmonic to match because I used the early style short water pump with the lower hose to the radiator on the driver's side.

i question if its timed properly now.

 

[crackedback]

It should KILL the tires even with 2.76's.

Tune up off? Something isn't right and seen plenty of dyno tunes that the setting weren't what worked best according to the sheet vs at the track.