Over heating questions

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hawkgoalie31

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Hey guys so couple things. I have a 74 duster 318. I changed to a 3 core aluminum radiator but I am afraid that my car still runs too hot. I live in so cal so it does get pretty hot. First question whats a temperature that I should be worried about if it reaches. It usually runs about 160-210 depending on if I m moving and how hot it is. I have a 160 thermostat in it. Second question would upgrading to a 4 core make a difference. Comments suggestions and concerns are all welcome

Thanks,
Brian
 
Change you thermostat to a 180. That 160 stat is doing nothing for you except shortening your engines overall life-span.

If you are hitting 210 (which isn't hot) while sitting in traffic on a 90+ degree day, that's just about normal.

What kind of fan do you have?
When, specifically is it getting in the 210ish range?
Do you have a fan shroud?

No, going to a 4 core would be pissing money down the toilet.


To long, didn't read version: Put in a 180 stat and keep driving, your car is fine.
 
really okay why is the 160 bad?
I have an after market 6 blade fan with a fan shroud but its a generic one when i put the 3 core in the fan didnt fit so we got a new one.
It gets in the 210ish range when I m stopped or driving around town. When I move at a good speed it cools down fast. I have a thermostat gauge on the top of the manifold right by the thermostat.
Thanks for the input
 
A 160 degree stat is bad because your engine wasn't designed to run at 160 degrees.

It is designed to run in the 190s.

People only use 160 degree stats because of a misguided belief that it will make a car run cooler, but it doesn't.

I will post this example again:

A 160 stat opens at 160 degrees.
A 180 stat opens at 180 degrees.

At 210 degrees which one is open?

That's right..... Both. At 210 degrees your engine doesn't know or care if the stat is a 160 or 180 because they are both open.

So here is what that 160 stat is doing for you.

It is lowering your gas milage because your engine is spending additional time below it's optimal operating temperature.

It is causing additional wear because your engine is spending additional time below it's optimal operating temperature.


NOTE: You will have a bunch of people here tell you that "I have always ran a 160 stat and have never had a problem". Ignore those people because they can't see the big picture.

The additional wear on the engine happens, not up front, but on the tail end. Lets say you got 150,000 miles out of your engine, before needing a rebuild, running a 160 degree stat.

Driving exactly the same but running a 180 or 190 degree stat, your engine may have went 210,000 miles.


Now back to your cooling. Your perceived problem (because I think your temp is fine), is airflow. This is indicated by the rapid cooling once you get moving.
 
Yes go to a 180 stat. If your still worried about the airflow when in town maybe a better fanset up or electric in front as a pusher. You can hook them up on a thermostat, I have one on mine set for 200 it comes on when Im in town on a hot day. The original fan seam to work best for me. I think I have a extra 7 blade fan that bolts to water pump if you need one.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
A 160 degree stat is bad because your engine wasn't designed to run at 160 degrees.

It is designed to run in the 190s.

People only use 160 degree stats because of a misguided belief that it will make a car run cooler, but it doesn't.

I will post this example again:

A 160 stat opens at 160 degrees.
A 180 stat opens at 180 degrees.

At 210 degrees which one is open?

That's right..... Both. At 210 degrees your engine doesn't know or care if the stat is a 160 or 180 because they are both open.

So here is what that 160 stat is doing for you.

It is lowering your gas milage because your engine is spending additional time below it's optimal operating temperature.

It is causing additional wear because your engine is spending additional time below it's optimal operating temperature.


NOTE: You will have a bunch of people here tell you that "I have always ran a 160 stat and have never had a problem". Ignore those people because they can't see the big picture.

The additional wear on the engine happens, not up front, but on the tail end. Lets say you got 150,000 miles out of your engine, before needing a rebuild, running a 160 degree stat.

Driving exactly the same but running a 180 or 190 degree stat, your engine may have went 210,000 miles.


Now back to your cooling. Your perceived problem (because I think your temp is fine), is airflow. This is indicated by the rapid cooling once you get moving.
Click to expand...

prove it show me a engine that has went bad because of a 160 stat
 
Motopsycho said:
prove it show me a engine that has went bad because of a 160 stat
Click to expand...

Sorry. You just can't convince some people that running an engine below optimal operating temperature reduces overall engine life.

You are one of those people.

And it's not the 160 stat that makes makes an engine go bad. It's normal engine wear that makes an engine go bad.

That wear is increased the more time it spends below it's optimal operating temperature.

That's why I said: The additional wear on the engine happens, not up front, but on the tail end. Lets say you got 150,000 miles out of your engine, before needing a rebuild, running a 160 degree stat.

Driving exactly the same but running a 180 or 190 degree stat, your engine may have went 210,000 miles.


I have a question for you. What do you believe are the benefits of running a 160 stat on a street car?
 
Essentially, if you run a 160* thermostat, you might as well throw the thermostat in the ditch and run without one. A 160* thermostat will be open almost the entire time your engine is running.

1968FormulaS340 is right. Running an engine well below its intended operating range does shorten its life span. I cannot explain it in depth but I know slantsixdan is really sharp at it as I have seen him explain it before. It makes perfect sense.

I know the factories routinely cut the electric fans on at around 230-240 degrees. Engines MUST run hot enough to keep contaminants and moisture boiled out of the oil. If you run an engine below about 180 for long periods, it is more prone to sludge buildup, as the moisture and contaminants are never gotten rid of, so they continually build up.

Keep in mind, for every one pound the cooling system is under, the boiling point is raised 3 degrees. That means with a 15 pound cap, your boiling point is now 257* and that is with water, not coolant. Coolant boils at even a higher point than water. This is why most aftermarket gauges read 260* on the hot side.

An internal combustion engine by definition runs on FIRE. The hotter it gets to a point, the better it runs and the longer it lasts. Keeping it too cool does it no good and can be detrimental in the long run. Like I said, I'm not smart enough to know all the hows and whys, but I know that it is a fact.

Oh and lastly, the thermostat has ZERO to do with how hot an engine gets. It does however control the minimum operating temperature.
 
Proven fact that running under 180 is bad for an engine.
Racers do it for a little more power, but the increased wear is the trade off.
 
Thanks for the input guys. I m going to change my thermostat to 180. Sounds like my car runs at the right temp. So last question what temp should i worry about it overheating at like 250? I mean to the point were i should turn the car off
 
I always draw the line at 230. Even though technically that's not overheating, once it gets that far, it usually will not cool off unless you cut the car off.
 
You don't have an overheating problem. 160-210 is perfectly acceptable. I don't agree with the engine damage with a cooler t-stat, but I would (and do) run a 180 degrees. On 90 degree plus days I run 210 degrees.
 
Couple things just food for thought but sounds like your car is in pretty good shape...I agree. Run a 180 stat. Ditch the 160. Engine efficiency/ thermal efficiency is what it's about. Some other ideas...

- swap to Evans waterless coolant

Read here - http://www.evanscooling.com/

- maybe try a clutch fan? Free up a little power?

- check your water pump. Is it the heavy duty cop style with the ribs on the mounting base or just smooth? Just a thought to check. Or try a flow kookier pump. May help stabilize things that much more.

- check your cap, probably fine but always worth a check if its older

That being said...getting up to 210 in stop/go in that climate as mentioned isnt for concern. Especially if it recovers once moving again.

As well I've run up to 240 plus and not had a boil over issue. These old iron headed motors are pretty tough and resilient...
 
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