Overcharging 73 Swinger

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Christopher Lounsbery

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Ok. I have a 1973 Dodge Swinger, I keep melting my battery feed wire at CE37 to the alternator. Also over charging and the ammeter responds like a tachometer. New regulator, ballast, clean connections at all points. Disconnected the green wire at the alternator and it continues to charge. Disconnect the blue wire and no charge. I'm leaning to an alternator.... any ideas?
 
Ok. I have a 1973 Dodge Swinger, I keep melting my battery feed wire at CE37 to the alternator. Also over charging and the ammeter responds like a tachometer. New regulator, ballast, clean connections at all points. Disconnected the green wire at the alternator and it continues to charge. Disconnect the blue wire and no charge. I'm leaning to an alternator.... any ideas?
 
Sounds to me like the brush connected to the green wire is grounded. Neither brush (field) alternator terminal should show continuity to ground. They both must be open.

If this is the case, you are lucky you did not switch the blue and green, as that would burn up the ignition harness.
 
Please don't start multiple threads. I answered your other one. Sounds like the field terminal connected to the green is grounded. Both field terminals should show infinity to ground
 
Sounds to me like the brush connected to the green wire is grounded. Neither brush (field) alternator terminal should show continuity to ground. They both must be open.

If this is the case, you are lucky you did not switch the blue and green, as that would burn up the ignition harness.

I did try it but I used fused jumpers
 
Yes- likely the alternator.
The green wire is the field's ground. The voltage regulator controls how much current is allowed through the rotor by that connection.
So the only explanation is that brush and terminal is shorting to ground.
It might be as simple as replacing the brush and insulator or the insulating washer.
I'm pretty sure I have a couple new ones. They look like this (might take a few minutes to load the pics)
Alternator repair, a little show and tell.
 
So the only explanation is that brush and terminal is shorting to ground.
It might be as simple as replacing the brush and insulator or the insulating washer.
I'm pretty sure I have a couple new ones. They look like this (might take a few minutes to load the pics)
Alternator repair, a little show and tell.

This is really easy to accidentally do too, just by putting the insulator on the wrong side of the terminal that the wire goes on.

I have seen and fixed points that people did this with also, and also pretty easy to do.
 
You're probably close enough to just stop by the garage.
Send me a mesage (conversation) if you want.
 
LOL I did not even look. Usually the mods will move them if wrong.
 
You should learn to troubleshoot instead of throwing parts at it. I mentioned that the alternator field terminals should show NO continuity to the case (ground) or in other words, both should show infinity. You can easily check that with a meter, or a "quick" check with a test lamp.

Why isn't your new alternator charging? Lets try some actual troubleshooting. You have tools?

You need a 12V test lamp, a couple of alligator jumper leads, and a multimeter at minimum.

For starters, "quick check" try this: turn the key to run. Don't leave it that way longer than necessary to make these tests.

If you have no meter, with the key in run, disconnect the green wire at the alternator. In subdued lighting, you should see a small spark there as you disconnect or reconnect the wire. If not, take a jumper wire or screwdriver, and with the green field wire disconnected, ground that exposed alternator terminal. You should see a small spark.

Now check for voltage on the blue wire. use a meter or a test lamp, but with the key in "run" the blue wire should be "hot" same as battery.

If it is, recheck the alternator. Check with a test lamp with the blue connected, and the green disconnected, check the terminal where the green was connected. Should get a light

Another thing to try AFTER you have varified you have voltage on the blue wire, is to jumper the field terminal where the green connected to ground. Start the engine and slowly bring up RPM. Ammeter should show and increasing charge.

If not you likely have a defective alternator. "New" does not mean good (functional)
 
You should learn to troubleshoot instead of throwing parts at it. I mentioned that the alternator field terminals should show NO continuity to the case (ground) or in other words, both should show infinity. You can easily check that with a meter, or a "quick" check with a test lamp.

Why isn't your new alternator charging? Lets try some actual troubleshooting. You have tools?

You need a 12V test lamp, a couple of alligator jumper leads, and a multimeter at minimum.

For starters, "quick check" try this: turn the key to run. Don't leave it that way longer than necessary to make these tests.

If you have no meter, with the key in run, disconnect the green wire at the alternator. In subdued lighting, you should see a small spark there as you disconnect or reconnect the wire. If not, take a jumper wire or screwdriver, and with the green field wire disconnected, ground that exposed alternator terminal. You should see a small spark.

Now check for voltage on the blue wire. use a meter or a test lamp, but with the key in "run" the blue wire should be "hot" same as battery.

If it is, recheck the alternator. Check with a test lamp with the blue connected, and the green disconnected, check the terminal where the green was connected. Should get a light

Another thing to try AFTER you have varified you have voltage on the blue wire, is to jumper the field terminal where the green connected to ground. Start the engine and slowly bring up RPM. Ammeter should show and increasing charge.

If not you likely have a defective alternator. "New" does not mean good (functional)
Ok. Ran through all of this. No spark with the green wire but terminal has B+. Green wire has continuity from end to end. Ground Field terminal and system operates as designed. My thought is a faulty VR or poor connection at the regulator.
 
I'm on it. Got to get off my phone and onto my laptop. Threads merged.
Thanks Mike. If the OP comes back, it will help.
Honestly think the fastest way to figure this out was to meet at my garage and knock it out.
 
Ok kids. Changed Voltage Regulator and I'm up and running. The ones from the parts houses suck. If anyone needs one use AC Delco # C603Z. Any GM dealer can order it up and it's about the same price as the one from China.
 
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