JDMopar
Well-Known Member
Do all 200-4R's have the BPO bolt pattern on the bellhousing? I've been looking for one locally, to stash back for my wife's 77 Trans Am. Not having much luck finding one, but just kinda half hearted looking at the moment.
Overdrive transmission
- Thread starter Nihms
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I wasn't trying to call you out. I just had my A500 built and the 2.74/1.54/1.00/.69 is a big part of my build. I agree on the advantage.
Yes. I believe all 200-4R's are dual bolt pattern. We had one built for a customer's '69 Firebird convertible behind his 472 stroker. Finding cores is tough.
Furious65
C-body Guy
I got lucky and found a core locally for $100. Collecting the parts to build it is going to take a while for me as I'll be doing all the work so I can afford to buy the more expensive HD parts throughout.
1WildRT
Well-Known Member
I'm not worried about being called on wrong info, its important to get accurate info.. The A518 & A500 are both huge improvements over the 727/904 but the A500 can really have big advantages if it suits your build..
I'm in the same boat in that I've got a small block with a 727 and I'd like to upgrade to something with an extra gear; but with the caveat that I'd prefer something that can bolt up to a G3 hemi down the line.
I'm not going to be making beaucoup power so the 500 & 42 look enticing in that they're smaller, lighter and don't rob as much HP, and I'm guessing less cutting? But I have no problem going for the beef of the 518 or the 46 and honestly wouldn't mind going 2004R if that's the right fit.
money isn't necessarily a concern, but I'm not looking to break the bank or anything. the car does get driven in a spirited manner and I'm prone to road tripping it. dealer's choice on gears, but I've currently got 2.23's in it.
what's the consensus cost wise, ease of install, performance and future compatibility?
I'm not going to be making beaucoup power so the 500 & 42 look enticing in that they're smaller, lighter and don't rob as much HP, and I'm guessing less cutting? But I have no problem going for the beef of the 518 or the 46 and honestly wouldn't mind going 2004R if that's the right fit.
money isn't necessarily a concern, but I'm not looking to break the bank or anything. the car does get driven in a spirited manner and I'm prone to road tripping it. dealer's choice on gears, but I've currently got 2.23's in it.
what's the consensus cost wise, ease of install, performance and future compatibility?
1WildRT
Well-Known Member
G3 Hemi uses the same bellhousing as a LA/5.2-5.9 Magnum.... So the RH42.A500 is perfect... And since it has a deeper 1st gear it's accelerate quicker & highway cruising will be around 1700 rpm... Assuming a 28" tall tire & 3.23 axle..
that's excellent news. the deep 1st got my attention right quick. thank you so much for the help!
pretty sure I'm at about 28" tall I just put on new tires and haven't bothered to measure anything yet. slowing waking the beast up after a long slumber so just putting together battle plans for future endeavors....
That's about the size of it.
Here's what I had to cut on the crossmember to fit the 200-4R in my '73 Sport. That and buying the adapter kit was the only big issue with going with this trans. No cutting on the tunnel is required.
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
depends, do you want to cut the hell out of your car? if not then gear vendors..
Martythetrimmer
Well-Known Member
Not many options outside of 727/904 for auto trans in Australia. So I'm going turbo700 behind my 318 in my 1967 Dodge ute. Bought the adaptor kit from Wilcap co. Looks to be a well made kit inc. starter motor. I have the same trans in an other car and more than happy with the positive, very firm shift. With all my other cars having O/D I couldn't build my new ride without it! Wilcap Store
Which a lot of us don't have anymore. Are you listening Joe?
CudaFactHackJob
Well-Known Member
What is the abhorrence to reinforcing the floor ABOVE the crossmember? It takes a very proficient welder to do all that overhead welding, but if the section in the tunnel was sliced completely out, a lot could be done from above. A few layers of strap up top would go a long way to strengthening that area. I've seen plenty of these that had very few factory welds attaching the reinforcement to the floor up inside the tunnel anyway. I hate it when sparks go down my neck! Bad enough to fight them when cutting the reinforcement out from below, but at least that's only two vertical cuts. And why not just build an entirely new LONGER crossmember; drilling extra holes in the reinforcement? The earlier pre-67 a-bodies needed cutting for dual exhaust anyway.
Martythetrimmer
Well-Known Member
I was building a 1962 S series that was to have a factory super charged GM V6/turbo700. Rego killed the project as it was 41cc's to large to suit their reg's!! Anyway, I was replacing the trans tunnel with the matching one to the trans so I had the chance to replace the reinforcing from above. I made a new one from box section and made the modification for the exhaust at the same time. Quick and simple job!
Their
Their registration office for motor vehicles.
CudaFactHackJob
Well-Known Member
Dang, you guys go all out!
SleeperDart505
Stock wheels, Stock Paint, 505" Stroker, Full Cage
What did you have to do to get the 2004R in there?
SleeperDart505
Stock wheels, Stock Paint, 505" Stroker, Full Cage
Thanks for the picture. That helps a lot. You mention an adaptor kit. What all is included ? Where did you get it? Is it more than the Reid transmission adaptor? Thanks in advance!!!
jbc426
Well-Known Member
While the Wilcap engine plate does work, it is is an ugly solution that even when properly trimmed can get in the way of virtually anything passing near the bellhousing. It also moves the transmission farther back in the car slightly by the thickness of the plate.
Using a Reid bellhousing does require cutting the bellhousing off the 2004R and bolting an adapter ring to the front pump housing of the 2004R.
SleeperDart505
Stock wheels, Stock Paint, 505" Stroker, Full Cage
I think I understand what you're saying after looking at some pictures. It looks like the Reid bellhousing is a much better solution. The transmission company building the tranny can do that work pretty easily while they're doing everythiung else.
That's why I asked about length of the GM trans. If it's shorter overall that would make up for the length difference between the GM and the Mopar trans.
I thought the 200 series GM trans was the weak noodle one that couldn't take much power, thought you had to get into the 700 series or a 4L series to get some beef
I thought the 200 series GM trans was the weak noodle one that couldn't take much power, thought you had to get into the 700 series or a 4L series to get some beef
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