Overheating Issues - SB Duster

-
C

craigibc

wishin' my Demon was done
Joined
Apr 17, 2007
Messages
321
Reaction score
1
Location
Escondido, California
Hey Everyone,

Well I have been having problems with my car running HOT since I put it together. Its a 360 in a '71 Duster with a 3-core 340 radiator and a stock 7-blade fan. I recently installed a new 180* t-stat hoping it would fix the problem, when I went to remove the old one I noticed the top of it was covered in slimy rust. The car has 50/50 coolant & water, so I just assumed the t-stat was bad. I put the new one in and I am having the same problems. I don't currently have a shroud, but with the temperatures we are having right now, its a non-issue. Btw, the t-stat is installed with the pointy thing at the top, aka: correct.

I have no problem getting this radiator rodded out, but I want to make sure that my money will be spent wisely. Please let me know your .02.

- Jon D.
 
The little stem looking thing that houses the spring should be on the bottom. Have you replaced the cap? If it doesn't seal all the way, the system wont pressurize and circulate properly. If that's good, try flushing it.
 
if the T-stat is right then it sounds to me like a flush is in order, is it 50/50 coolant or 50/50 coolant and water, with the 50/50 you don't add water?
 
hot meaning what.....200....220.....260.....stock 7 blade with a clutch?????if so the clutch isn;t locking up...just freewheelin........My need a schroud....possibly head gasket......air bubble in system......did you use a good gates super stat...not a 2 dollar advanced auto crapola one... ...Is the water pump broken on the inside perpeller not turning....seen it before,,,, Timing is off...did I miss anything
 
I had the same prob w/my 360 Dart until recently. The 4 things I did: recored radiator (3x), installed Viscous clutch fan, installed shroud, and new water pump. Was running at 195 and heating to 210 when in traffic. Originally gutted thermostat which helped some but then decided to make prescribed changes.
Have 160 thermostat in there now and will be switching back to 180 as car runs at 160 now and no higher than 170 in heavy traffic! Amazing... now I need it to run a little hotter.
 
craigibc said:
Hey Everyone,

Well I have been having problems with my car running HOT since I put it together. Its a 360 in a '71 Duster with a 3-core 340 radiator and a stock 7-blade fan. I recently installed a new 180* t-stat hoping it would fix the problem, when I went to remove the old one I noticed the top of it was covered in slimy rust. The car has 50/50 coolant & water, so I just assumed the t-stat was bad. I put the new one in and I am having the same problems. I don't currently have a shroud, but with the temperatures we are having right now, its a non-issue. Btw, the t-stat is installed with the pointy thing at the top, aka: correct.

I have no problem getting this radiator rodded out, but I want to make sure that my money will be spent wisely. Please let me know your .02.

- Jon D.
Click to expand...


You're right down the freeway from me, cool man.

Rod the radiator if you have any rusty/brown sludge.
flush the sht out of the block, you might try rad flush with the upper hose disconnected and a garden hose down the filler neck feeding it.[before rad rodding]
You can put an extension on the upper so it clears the core support and just runs down the driveway or whatever.
Do the block flush before rodding the radiator.
Just put in the flush and run it till hot or 30 min.
 
Coiled up wire coat hanger in the lower radiator hose or you need to "burp" the system. Either way you need to flush it to get that crap out.
 
get the # up and makesure the timing is right.......then just for kicks turn the motor with a socket and watch the rotor stop now turn it the opp. way ....may sound but my motor had so much chain slack it wasnt funny and my car would heat no matter what had fan shroud and everything......put a new chain still had slack for some odd reason add a tensioner car want get over 180 with back to back pass....
 
thats right but mines was so bad i could move the timing by the dis. at the track with a light and not pick up anything it was way off which cause the car to run hot or high in temp..(timing was off ) put a few head gaskets on it...it was a fresh build that was prof. done yea right what was prof. was they way they took me for all my money...
 
http://www.usradiator.com/cplymouth.htm
I used their triple core triple flow rad in my Barracuda with 408. I was consistently running 210 degrees with my old 3 core that had been cleaned and rodded out. after installing this radiatior the car never goes over 185. This morning i drove 15 miles to work and the car never reached 165 degrees. They fit perfect
HKeller
 
I run a direct fit summit aluminum radiator with tranny cooler. With no shrowd and stock fan. never overheated yet.
 
earthmover said:
thats right but mines was so bad i could move the timing by the dis. at the track with a light and not pick up anything it was way off which cause the car to run hot or high in temp..(timing was off ) put a few head gaskets on it...it was a fresh build that was prof. done yea right what was prof. was they way they took me for all my money...
Click to expand...

wow that sux man.

Yeah the distributor stays with the cam via drive gear, but the crank don't with a loose chain and like you said..wouldn't time right in relation to the crank.
 
slimey rust is not good. how old is the rad? recore rad,clutch fan, and shroud is what i recommend.
 
Its an all-original out of a friends '74 360 Dart Sport, Joe.

My other problem with this car is finding a shroud. I have a few 318 ones kicking around here, but none of them are even close to fitting. I think I'll start with flushing it, then taking it to get rodded out this afternoon. I'll let you guys know whats up. Thanks.
 
just go see ol'sweetwater wrecking and he sell ya one, might cost yer 1st born child, but he should have it.

really, if you have a good capacity or the right capacity radiator with the fan spaced correctly, you don't need a fan shroud.jmo

I've been running with out one for 7 yrs, I drive to fresno & mojave in the summer too.
But I also have a 1 row aluminum radiator.
 
does your hood have the weatherstrip that hits the radiator support when closed? it's needed to keep the air directed through the radiator.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top