Snake
Mopar Nut
Man the suspense is killing me.:happy1:
Paint shop Jail...Looking forward to release date.
- Thread starter FJ5
- Start date
-
MobileCustoms
Well-Known Member
I think there is going to be a cyber party here when you get this thing outta that butt muncher's shop and into your own garage!
FJ5
Well-Known Member
Well, you guys were like me. You and I thought it would actually be finished. Lots of touch up stuff still needs to be done. Hood and trunk hinges are all scratched up. I couldn't believe it. But what is finished looks killer. Again the day is Wednesday to pick it up.
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
:boxing:
chryslerfat
Well-Known Member
FJ5
Well-Known Member
Mor pics
FJ5
Well-Known Member
Pix
FJ5
Well-Known Member
Pic
67 prostreet gt
Well-Known Member
Woods74
Broke Senior
Still not worth it. 
ain10:
ain10:Louie70Dart
Southern IL. Complete opposite of k-town
You still didn't get it? Went all that way for a few pictures? smh I'm sorry, but you've gone through hell with this guy, I was hoping you would finally have some closure. Now you're left hanging, again.
67 prostreet gt
Well-Known Member
Tbone416
Well-Known Member
It takes time to get them nice!!! ITS TIME ITS TIME ITS TIME!!!!!! Looks good!!!!!!
jbc426
Well-Known Member
Painting is just one step of many. I hope you get your car out of paint jail. Once its out, you go on a lifetime probation to keep your car looking great, instead of just mediocre.
Once you get the car apart, in a lot of cases derusted and new panels installed. it's still a long hard road to get a car looking good with bodywork and paint, even when the guy works diligently on it and sticks with it. It's an art, just like keeping it looking good for years after the final paint job is finished.
There are upsides to taking several years to get a paint and bodywork job finished though. It gives time for more finesse on the metal straightening, gives the body filler's thin skim coats and the catalyzed primer a good opportunity to shrink before guide coating and blocking it down. Letting the car sit in the final catalyzed sealer for over a year is huge when it comes to the finished product. It all shrinks,, even the stuff that claims it doesn't.
Also, keep the car grounded while you're working on it. Rubbing and sanding creates static electricity that is like a magnet to airborne dust. Keeping a small ground wire on it attached to the car with a strong clip hooked to a water pipe that goes into the earth helps a lot, but it takes time for the static to bleed off into the earth. It even helps keep your car cleaner in the garage. Car covers are a great tool, but if you are not carful about how you put them on and take them off, you can really scratch up your paint! Especially if you are forced to leave your car outside in high winds. It often better to leave the thing off, especially if your car is not spotlessly clean. You will contaminate your car cover with grit and it becomes a sanding cloth.
Then after a high quality block, hand sand with the right shape blocks (in the correct direction with just the right pressure and grit paper),final wet sand, fully cleaning the whole car, cleaning it again, tack clothing it, sealing it, base coating it and finally top coating it with the correct thickness of high quality clear; you need to wait again before you color sand it and then buff it using a high quality matched system.
Be sure to use compatible high dollar materials, which can quickly add up to well over $3600 at discount prices.
Once it sits for another six months its time to color sand, buff in multiple stages, clay it and begin the final polishing. Then seal it with either paint sealant, carnauba or one of the new hybrid type waxes.
Next, you need to learn how to clean and maintain your car's finish without scratching it up. I usually only see a handful of cars at show with no swirl marks on them. That's because there are ways to clean your car without scratching it, but most people never learn how to do it right. It's a learning process that's a lot quicker when you go to a top shelf polishing guru. I happen to have met a guy a few years ago, and he transformed the finish on my car over the last few years. He also taught me how to clean my car without introducing those finish ruining swirl marks.
Only when my car gets supper dusty like out at the drag stipe at Eagle Field in the Central Valley of California does my car actually get washed down with soap and water. The final rinsed is with reverse osmosis water in a 4 gallon Hudson Sprayer. this washing with water only happens about every two years. It takes 5+ hours to get the car dry, spot free and get all the water off the car and out of every nook and cranny. Normally, I just ever so lightly dust the worst of the dust and dirt off with a California Duster (LIGHTY!) and then gently use Griot's Speed Shine and their light blue high quality micro fiber cloths.
There are other high quality options out there to. The idea is to buy the best available, and take your time, let the product work and rub very lightly. Switch cloths regularly and use separate clothes from the body line up and different ones for the lower body line. Keep all your clothes in zip-lock baggies. Use separate bags to store the clean ones and the dirty ones. Use their micro fiber cleaning spray to pretreat the clothes before washing them in the laundry, and don't use fabric softener on them. I keep a dozen rags on hand and buy Speed Shine by the gallon.
Always clay your car well using speed shine as a lubricant prior to ANY touch up polishing prior to a rewaxing!
There's and art to cleaning a well painted car, and as you can tell by going to car shows , especially on dark cars, most people don't have a clue on how to do it without hurting their finish. There is hope though for those who are trainable. My polishing guru Eddie Da Rocha, out here in the San Jose area, is an absolute master at paint restoration. He's best paint polishing expert I have ever seen. Period!
How much time do I spend preparing the paint on my car for a car show, or to go on a cruise up to Sacramento, to go out and hot rod around town or drive over to the coast or al the way to LA? Less than 20 minutes. Really, god's honest truth. I bet most people take longer washing and drying their cars.
Once a year though I do detail, clay, polish and wax it. That takes some time. I also clay and reseal it with hybrid wax every 6 months. That takes about one and a half to two hours to clay the car and rewax it. The rest of the year, it's a quick wipe down and it's ready to go. Its not that much work once it's brought up to a certain level. It it perfect, no but it looks better than almost any other black car on the road.
This car gets driven and driven hard. I didn't guild a 700+ hp stoked 6 pack motor to idle into and out of car shows, but yes it has won a number of shows. The bottom line is that once you get your paint looking good, it's not that hard or time consuming to keep it that way once you learn how.
PS: me and a buddy did all the bodywork in my garage, not including two round trip tow bills, I paid a guy $1500 to spray it in a booth at a nearby shop. All totaled, I have just over 10K in this paint job including using all top shelf Standox paint and materials. Polishing was extra, but makes all the difference in the world. These pictures don't do it justice. I was quoted almost $40k for a similar quality paint job by several reputable local shops.
Once you get the car apart, in a lot of cases derusted and new panels installed. it's still a long hard road to get a car looking good with bodywork and paint, even when the guy works diligently on it and sticks with it. It's an art, just like keeping it looking good for years after the final paint job is finished.
There are upsides to taking several years to get a paint and bodywork job finished though. It gives time for more finesse on the metal straightening, gives the body filler's thin skim coats and the catalyzed primer a good opportunity to shrink before guide coating and blocking it down. Letting the car sit in the final catalyzed sealer for over a year is huge when it comes to the finished product. It all shrinks,, even the stuff that claims it doesn't.
Also, keep the car grounded while you're working on it. Rubbing and sanding creates static electricity that is like a magnet to airborne dust. Keeping a small ground wire on it attached to the car with a strong clip hooked to a water pipe that goes into the earth helps a lot, but it takes time for the static to bleed off into the earth. It even helps keep your car cleaner in the garage. Car covers are a great tool, but if you are not carful about how you put them on and take them off, you can really scratch up your paint! Especially if you are forced to leave your car outside in high winds. It often better to leave the thing off, especially if your car is not spotlessly clean. You will contaminate your car cover with grit and it becomes a sanding cloth.
Then after a high quality block, hand sand with the right shape blocks (in the correct direction with just the right pressure and grit paper),final wet sand, fully cleaning the whole car, cleaning it again, tack clothing it, sealing it, base coating it and finally top coating it with the correct thickness of high quality clear; you need to wait again before you color sand it and then buff it using a high quality matched system.
Be sure to use compatible high dollar materials, which can quickly add up to well over $3600 at discount prices.
Once it sits for another six months its time to color sand, buff in multiple stages, clay it and begin the final polishing. Then seal it with either paint sealant, carnauba or one of the new hybrid type waxes.
Next, you need to learn how to clean and maintain your car's finish without scratching it up. I usually only see a handful of cars at show with no swirl marks on them. That's because there are ways to clean your car without scratching it, but most people never learn how to do it right. It's a learning process that's a lot quicker when you go to a top shelf polishing guru. I happen to have met a guy a few years ago, and he transformed the finish on my car over the last few years. He also taught me how to clean my car without introducing those finish ruining swirl marks.
Only when my car gets supper dusty like out at the drag stipe at Eagle Field in the Central Valley of California does my car actually get washed down with soap and water. The final rinsed is with reverse osmosis water in a 4 gallon Hudson Sprayer. this washing with water only happens about every two years. It takes 5+ hours to get the car dry, spot free and get all the water off the car and out of every nook and cranny. Normally, I just ever so lightly dust the worst of the dust and dirt off with a California Duster (LIGHTY!) and then gently use Griot's Speed Shine and their light blue high quality micro fiber cloths.
There are other high quality options out there to. The idea is to buy the best available, and take your time, let the product work and rub very lightly. Switch cloths regularly and use separate clothes from the body line up and different ones for the lower body line. Keep all your clothes in zip-lock baggies. Use separate bags to store the clean ones and the dirty ones. Use their micro fiber cleaning spray to pretreat the clothes before washing them in the laundry, and don't use fabric softener on them. I keep a dozen rags on hand and buy Speed Shine by the gallon.
Always clay your car well using speed shine as a lubricant prior to ANY touch up polishing prior to a rewaxing!
There's and art to cleaning a well painted car, and as you can tell by going to car shows , especially on dark cars, most people don't have a clue on how to do it without hurting their finish. There is hope though for those who are trainable. My polishing guru Eddie Da Rocha, out here in the San Jose area, is an absolute master at paint restoration. He's best paint polishing expert I have ever seen. Period!
How much time do I spend preparing the paint on my car for a car show, or to go on a cruise up to Sacramento, to go out and hot rod around town or drive over to the coast or al the way to LA? Less than 20 minutes. Really, god's honest truth. I bet most people take longer washing and drying their cars.
Once a year though I do detail, clay, polish and wax it. That takes some time. I also clay and reseal it with hybrid wax every 6 months. That takes about one and a half to two hours to clay the car and rewax it. The rest of the year, it's a quick wipe down and it's ready to go. Its not that much work once it's brought up to a certain level. It it perfect, no but it looks better than almost any other black car on the road.
This car gets driven and driven hard. I didn't guild a 700+ hp stoked 6 pack motor to idle into and out of car shows, but yes it has won a number of shows. The bottom line is that once you get your paint looking good, it's not that hard or time consuming to keep it that way once you learn how.
PS: me and a buddy did all the bodywork in my garage, not including two round trip tow bills, I paid a guy $1500 to spray it in a booth at a nearby shop. All totaled, I have just over 10K in this paint job including using all top shelf Standox paint and materials. Polishing was extra, but makes all the difference in the world. These pictures don't do it justice. I was quoted almost $40k for a similar quality paint job by several reputable local shops.
chryslerfat
Well-Known Member
I am shocked this flake actually painted body color under hood and not black.
FJ5
Well-Known Member
It is as slick and smooth as it looks.
FJ5
Well-Known Member
JB426 that is some good info.
FJ5
Well-Known Member
Here is a pic of the "Mafia" I took with me lol.
From left to right Aaron (one of the best metal fabricators i've seen), thats me in the hat, Bill, two of my son's friends, and My number two son Garrett (he thought it should have been a darker green. Too late now lol.
From left to right Aaron (one of the best metal fabricators i've seen), thats me in the hat, Bill, two of my son's friends, and My number two son Garrett (he thought it should have been a darker green. Too late now lol.
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
67 prostreet gt
Well-Known Member
jbc426: good info.
me personally, all that's why I wouldn't want a car with that a perfect and costly paint job, I want to drive it, let some guy tell me its a 10 footer ( compliment, he could have said its a 30 footer!!??), I ;ive in the sticks, my cars sit in an open ended sheds, dust and cow pop flies everywhere!!??... I wouldn't have the desire or patience to take car of ti and look for that "water"! but to each his own, that's what makes our hobby interesting!
I want a car that gets the sorry paint job it got out of the factory, orange peel an all!!! LOL
me personally, all that's why I wouldn't want a car with that a perfect and costly paint job, I want to drive it, let some guy tell me its a 10 footer ( compliment, he could have said its a 30 footer!!??), I ;ive in the sticks, my cars sit in an open ended sheds, dust and cow pop flies everywhere!!??... I wouldn't have the desire or patience to take car of ti and look for that "water"! but to each his own, that's what makes our hobby interesting!
I want a car that gets the sorry paint job it got out of the factory, orange peel an all!!! LOL
Woods74
Broke Senior
^ Yeah, doing the serious restoration I've already done, that s*it is over the top. I can't truly enjoy my car if I'm stressing about paint while I drive. I'm a nice driver kind of guy, show ponies are too much. Better things to do with my time, only so many minutes in my life. Especially since the only people that really care and appreciate are few, the return on investment just isn't there. Good luck with it though.
pro-tech
Well-Known Member
From the factory under the hood and trunk were painted the color of the car...
ops:So black is what a lot of guys paint them just to look fresh and clean behind the grille is black...:cwm21:
chryslerfat
Well-Known Member
I know and I have seen too many Mopars painted Chevy black underhood. I just wish people would get it right like his car is.From the factory under the hood and trunk were painted the color of the car...
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