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hamesdart

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just painted my car yesterday.
Primer went on nice and thick,
base went down the same and nice and smoothe and even,
but the clear seemed to shoot a little ruffer :angry7:
Came out a little funny no matter how i adjusted the gun and i followed mixing procedure perfectly... so it sprayed the clear on with someone of a light texture, and isnt super brilliant glossyy
i think the texture keeps down the shine as well but not an expert.
I layed it on pretty thick with quite a few coats since i figured i would have to color sand the hell out of it to get it flat and glossy. what do you guys think??? can it come out decent?​
 
pictures

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looks like you didn't atomize the clear, gotta be sanded smooth and re shot with the proper tip and proper pressure.
 
Looks like the clear wasn't nearly thin enough.
 
well it was a simple 4-1 mixture.... so i know that was rite.
sprayed everything with a 1.5 tip.

But obviously it just didnt spray rite. whether the clear needed different pressure settings and adjustments i couldnt acheive or whathave you.

But as of now every day its flattening out a little bit and getting smoother.
Do you think it could straighten out a bit by a little color sanding???

if color sanding can take out runs and orange peel shouldnt it take out a light texture like this? theres plenty of coats of clear on there
 
Either it wasn't mixed correctly, or the reducer and product weren't compatable..
Yes! You can sand that smooth and it will shine like the sun.
Start with a 600 grit (might need to hit it lightly with 400 first) then work your way up to 1200 then 1500. Most polishes will take out 1500 grit scratches. I went to 2000 grit. Once it is smooth and flat, hit it with the polisher and you'll be good to go.
It will just take longer is all. No problem though.

Good Luck.

George
 
primer should have been a 1.8 tip base and clear 1.5-1.3.
the reason I say you will most likely have to reshoot is because it is easy to sand through when you are sanding so much.
 
Yah something didnt seem rite.
The guys i buy paint from have been around for over 60 years and they are great guys so i do trust them,
they gave me all the steps. tip sizes and everything.
the clear and reducer was a set set up from the manufacture as a 4-1 set up.
But all and all whats done is done, im not a professional so im not getting professional results. the only reason i did it was to get the experience and knowlage and same some money as a do it yourselfer.
But all and all my thing is can it be saved!!!

I was planning on color sanding anyway but now its just gonna take a little more and a little longer to do it.
I saw it was spraying funny and tried my adjustments and just couldnt get it to spray better:angry7:.

so knowing i would need serious sanding i just layed on about 6 light coats of clear to build up enough to knock down
 
With all of the different formulas that you were mixing up, there is no chance that you used the wrong reducer on something did you? You stated the clear coat was a simple 4:1 mix - there wasn't a hardener that was to be mixed with it? Something looks wrong, and if everything was mixed correct it looks like a compatibility issue. Were you using all of the same brand? Good luck with the sanding.
C
 
Wow, now you have a mess. Did you shoot it with high build primer? It almost looks like you didn't wet sand the primer. I shot mine with epoxy primer then wet sanded it with 400 till glass smooth before shooting the color.
The "texture" almost looks like my primer before sanding.
 
no everything was seperated so no mis mixing was done.
clear was a different brand and color bottles then everything else... very hard to mix up.
Umm as far as everything else it was very very smooth.
everything went on great and wet sanded primer nice .
paint it self went on extreamly good and the only thing that shot funky was the clear...
Something about it just wouldnt shoot good but i double checked everything and it all went exactly how it was supposed to.
it was more of a couldnt get the gun adjusted good enough type of thing.
but just sitting in the 100 degree plus weather already smoothed it out some more today... supprisingly it is settleing great.

we will see. whats done is done for me now so i have to try to save it with color sanding... here we go
 
hamesdart that does look serious. I would give it time to dry and wet sand like mention by George. Worse case is you have to re clear(as long as you don't burn through the color). If you have to re clear, shoot a practice panel first to get the adjustment you need. When I first used my gravity feed gun I tried spraying my dash without doing any test spraying. Well I screwed it up and had to do it twice. I did some practicing on a metal shop trash can. Things are much better know.
Good luck and dont be afraid to wet sand that baby out, just tape the edges off.
 
I ran in to the same thing earlier this year when painting the boss's new truck. I couldn't get it to lay flat and the gun was just not atomizing it correctly. I finally dumped what was in the gun and completely disassembled it, let the gun soak over the weekend and gave it a complete cleaning. After that it went on like glass. The trick to getting a slick job without alot of sanding is to lay it on to the point you think it is going to run on you and then pray it doesn't. Here is a shot before it was sanded and buffed.

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Holy Helen Keller!!! That looks like rubberized undercoating. There is no way that will cut and buff. DA the whole thing with 400, blend in the color where you will inevitably burn through, and re-clear it. Nothing else will fix that.
 
hmmm many mixed views...
Ill see how it goes. it seems like i layed it on thick enough were its flatening out pretty great.either way just knocking it down with a d.a. and not trying to cut & buff seems like giving up haha. im always up for a second try so we will see. obviously if it dosnt work out ill have to re-shoot and go again.....

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I wouldn't give up yet, do exactly like George said, but only do one panel, to see if it is going to flatten out enough (it looks like you are close). I did a car that came out with a little orange peel, and after sanding and buffing, it looked like a million $$$. Good luck..
 
rite now started to hit it with 600.
plan is flatten mostly w/ 600 then 1000, then 1500, then buff & polish....
the main thing is it cant look much worse then it did so i think a good cut and buff should do it up a bit better.

Just wondering.. the panels i showed are flat but still have some tiny little pits here and there and im wondering if i should sand down to those or just close and let the 1000/1500 and the buffing should bring it down to there?
 
hamesdart said:
rite now started to hit it with 600.
plan is flatten mostly w/ 600 then 1000, then 1500, then buff & polish....
the main thing is it cant look much worse then it did so i think a good cut and buff should do it up a bit better.

Just wondering.. the panels i showed are flat but still have some tiny little pits here and there and im wondering if i should sand down to those or just close and let the 1000/1500 and the buffing should bring it down to there?
Click to expand...

Do you feel you have enough clear to go a bit further? As you hit with the next 2 grades, it will also make a difference.
If in question now do a small area 12x12 with compound by hand and see how it looks from an angle.
 
well i am going to try a small area tomorro and see what happens.... but another question... how do i know that i have taken out the 600 grit sanding marks with the 1000 grit and the 1000 with the 1500 and so on...
i tried a small spot and i dont see much much difference in the marks other then it getting a little brighter as in going from darker to lighter scratch marks.. any tips on telling the difference
 
To see if the scratches are gone, after sanding wipe with a wet cloth and shine a trouble light at arms length against the panel. At the right angle you'll see the difference of the 600 against the 1000.
 
did you sand the primer before laying the base coat? It looks as though the texture is also under the clear from the way the metallic is laying. the only time i have ever seen something spray like that is from an unclean gun or if the clear had an accelerator in it on a very hot day. what brand clear did you use?
i am all for trying to save it but ive been down that road before. even if you get most sanded out you can still pull a burn through and need to re shoot anyway.
As far as tip sizes go i have sprayed clear through a contact cement gun with good results. that should not have effected the clear (its thin) but the primer would be effected if you did not have a big enough tip.
Sand it down, concider the last few coats "extra" and go with the base and clear. you might need a retarder if you are going to spray in hot weather again.
 
WOWWWWWWWW as said before....I thought you were showing pictures of a rubberised undercoating lol. a buddy of mine painted an entire bronco in truck bed liner paint and it looks exactly like that.... I dont know if I would call that paint salvagable.....sure you can try and shine it up but your most likely going to end up knocking it down to color anyhow and starting over on clear.......6 coats of clear or not,thats some badly textured clear coat. I agree with what someone had mentioned on it looking asthough and accelerator "hardner" was used and possibly the wrong kind if so for the temperature setting you were painting in....possibly you used a fast hardener on a hot day? if so,I have seen that stuff come out looking like cottage cheese lol. Good luck on it either way,I am sure if you cared about the car enough in the first place to paint it......then you should car about it enough to fix it and make it look good anyhow. Good luck!!
 
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