Parallel ignition systems, anybody tried running one?

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There are new ones made by Pertronix, is that one of them? I haven’t grossed or read a complain by a Pertronix box yet.
I don't know who makes it, but it has the "short" transistor on it everybody says is the good one, now suddenly it's a POS. I haven't seen any failed ones yet.
 
I have the blue "Hi Rev 7500" like Ehrenburg sells, though I got mine through Amazon and it came in a Jegs box. So far, I'm impressed with it. It runs good. I've actually thought about a tandem ignition like you're talking about. The NASCAR boys used to do that way back when. Two complete ignition systems. If they had a failure, as long as it wasn't the distributor, they could throw a switch and keep on truckin. It's not a bad idea.
I think I've got a dual plate mopar distributor for a small block. I recall a guy I know had 2 systems on it on a toggle switch. Although he was mopar crazy....I know I've got a dual plate pickup *** brand new as well.
 
Lol, understood, thx for Your input.
Did a quick search on summit to see if it has a history of purchases. nope, but I must have started using the wish list to retain a history of parts bought. it works.
Coil for my 72 440 is, part# PNX-40011, I`m still using the stock ballast witch only matches the low side ballast. It calls for 10 ohm on high side and stock is only 5.5 .
Maybe my junk will explode for mismatched parts. So far so good

My 340 car I used the ol MP electronic conversion and it`s recommended ballast and the accel higher voltage coil, probably similar to the pertronics spec.

I do a lot of puttin around with occasional romps and have noticed no ill effects.
By all means, I`m no expert on the subject, maybe just lucky so far. Knock on wood:D
 
My comments in post #17, cooking the coil.
MP bulletin says about the Chrome box + 0.25ohm res: 'This combination is not for prolonged use under 2000 rpm'.
Heating any ign coil more than it needs to be heated reduces it's spark output because the resistance of the copper windings increase with heat, reduces current.
One of the main benefits of GMs HEI was it had variable dwell. It had low dwell at low rpms because large dwell is not needed at lower rpms. Reducing the dwell allowed the coil to run cooler for more energy output.
 
Used to run a standard lx101 but recently started to get hot and cut off. So replaced it with a used but good chrome mopar box.
 
Standard LX101

Made in the USA SMP versus Chinese Borg Warner Echlin

Two different animals
 
I think I've got a dual plate mopar distributor for a small block. I recall a guy I know had 2 systems on it on a toggle switch. Although he was mopar crazy....I know I've got a dual plate pickup *** brand new as well.
That could make it work at the distributor. Sho nuff.
 
Standard LX101

Made in the USA SMP versus Chinese Borg Warner Echlin

Two different animals
Careful now. They are made in China now. Have been for some time. I don't know "WHEN" that occurred. Shortly before I left O'Reilly in 2019, they were beginning to stock Standard Ignition products, all of which are now outsourced to China. I never got a chance to verify that with the Blue Streak line, but I suspect it is the same. I try to look for older NOS parts on ebay. If the box isn't old and faded, I stay away. So far, it's worked well.
 
My comments in post #17, cooking the coil.
MP bulletin says about the Chrome box + 0.25ohm res: 'This combination is not for prolonged use under 2000 rpm'.
Heating any ign coil more than it needs to be heated reduces it's spark output because the resistance of the copper windings increase with heat, reduces current.
One of the main benefits of GMs HEI was it had variable dwell. It had low dwell at low rpms because large dwell is not needed at lower rpms. Reducing the dwell allowed the coil to run cooler for more energy output.
I've never seen that regarding the chrome box, only the gold.
 
Careful now. They are made in China now. Have been for some time. I don't know "WHEN" that occurred. Shortly before I left O'Reilly in 2019, they were beginning to stock Standard Ignition products, all of which are now outsourced to China. I never got a chance to verify that with the Blue Streak line, but I suspect it is the same. I try to look for older NOS parts on ebay. If the box isn't old and faded, I stay away. So far, it's worked well.
Around 2009/2010 they went with Borg Warner

SMP Made in the USA Prior

Yes on EBAY and Swap Meets for Made in the USA

Standard Elextron Solid State Ignition Boxes

Real Transistors - Some are date coded , even the boxes have letters and numbers
 
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Around 2009/2010 they went with Borg Warner

Made in the USA - Yes EBAY and Swap Meets

Standard Elextron Solid State Ignition Boxes

Real Transistors - Some are date coded , even the boxes have letters and numbers
They who? I can take a picture of a whole shelf at O'Reilly with parts that are inked "STANDARD IGNITION MADE IN CHINA" They dumped BW as they were bringing in Standard.
 
Didn’t SMP by out Borg Warner back then around 2010 , I stated that in my earlier posts , few changes on my word confusion - And there quality went with Borg Warner Chinese



And yes I know these Standard LX101s are made in China today
 
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Didn’t SMP by out Borg Warner back then around 2010 , I stated that in my earlier posts , few changes on my word confusion - And there quality went with Borg Warner Chinese



And yes I know these Standard LX101s are made in China today
Doesn't look like it. They appear to still have a brand. With all the boxing and reboxing that goes on, who's to say? lol
Ignition Technologies - BorgWarner
 
2011

What does BWD stand for in auto parts?

BWD Automotive is the name of the company now (Borg Warner Division) and is now a subsidiary of Standard Motor Products. They offer similar products, part numbers are different.

LX101 is made by SMP the same people who previously made our A688 ECU's for us. As of late 2010 they have sent all their manufacturing on these products to China or Mexico and can no longer produce this ECU in the USA to our spec. The old SMP LX101 was made in Kansas, when SMP bought out Borg Warner years ago the LX101 was superseded to the B/W unit which was built from low end imported components and the performance proved it.
 
I've never seen that regarding the chrome box, only the gold.
A lot of folks are not using .25 ohm ballasts as an above post demonstrates, that makes all the difference, coupled with the coils that make it possible to deliver what it's capable of. When they do, things heat up at low rpm. This isn't a debate over Chrome box on the street thread, I know what I wanna do & why, just lookin' for somebody else that's tried it. I value everybody's input here, but don't want too many side skirmishes straying from the focus on a switch-on-the-fly dual system. I recall a spring-loaded shift knob/handle with micro-switches that cut the ign every time You grabbed a gear, no lift shift deal, guessin' backfire flame show would've been good odds on that deal. Don't know how that ended.
 
2011

What does BWD stand for in auto parts?

BWD Automotive is the name of the company now (Borg Warner Division) and is now a subsidiary of Standard Motor Products. They offer similar products, part numbers are different.
That's the part I am unaware of.....and not arguing about, I was just unaware that Standard had bought out BWD. BWD still appears to have their own brand.....but again, "I don't know"
 
A lot of folks are not using .25 ohm ballasts as an above post demonstrates, that makes all the difference, coupled with the coils that make it possible to deliver what it's capable of. When they do, things heat up at low rpm. This isn't a debate over Chrome box on the street thread, I know what I wanna do & why, just lookin' for somebody else that's tried it. I value everybody's input here, but don't want too many side skirmishes straying from the focus on a switch-on-the-fly dual system. I recall a spring-loaded shift knob/handle with micro-switches that cut the ign every time You grabbed a gear, no lift shift deal, guessin' backfire flame show would've been good odds on that deal. Don't know how that ended.

The Mopar .25 OHM Resistors that are getting impossible to find

ADD all these Chinese Coils that fail

I have had more issues with Coils the past five years then I ever did with any Ignition Modules/ECUs

Does anyone make a Made in the USA canister oil filled ignition coil with a primary resistance of
1.4 - 1.5 OHMs , let me know
 
RRR.
Chrome box warning. Says it on p. 575 of my MP engines book. Shown as a footnote.
 
RRR.
Chrome box warning. Says it on p. 575 of my MP engines book. Shown as a footnote.
Really? Ok cool. Thanks man. It's been so long since I've read mine. It's buried. I need to dig it out.
 
You know what I have the .25 BR and others and a few chrome boxes, want to see how hot they get with the difference resistors. Bet the reg Ballast keeps the box cooler. I know with the .25 they draw almost 5.5 amps in the run position and running around 3. Reg stock system is less. Bet that is why some people can run them on the street with no issues they stay cooler.
 
Hops when you test these Ignition Modules/ECUs

What coil are you using in your tests ?

And can you test up to 5500-6000-6500 RPMs to see when everything starts to head south if either the coil or box

Thanx Scott
 
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It’s done all the time with MSD systems with dual pickup distributors and is shown in the manuals delivered in the MSD box. Mostly on race cars running endurance races. Don’t see why you couldn’t run it this way. But it’s also extra work for a street car, when you can just unplug and plug in the new box.
 
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