Pedal has to go to floor and still get some grinding

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Hyper Henry

Hyper Henry

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Did a 4-speed conversion on my 68 Notch and just can't seem to get it to work right :cry: Seems like I have to push the clutch right to the floor enorder to engage it and even when I do that I will still get griding when I go into 3rd if I don't hit it just right. Seems to get worse actually the hotter the car gets?? Took it for a cruise today and went to back into the driveway and it was next to impossible to get it in reverse without it grinding heavyly and the clutch was all the way in ](*,)
I have tried legthen the rod as much as I dare I think, have about 1/2" of free play at the top of the pedal. I have taken big pedal spring out upon Brewers recomendations and didn't seem to make much difference, actually maybe a little stiffer pedal feel??
Could it have something to do with the Z-bar I had to fab up and not having enough throw???
Combo is 451 ci, McLeod, diaphragm style clutch, flywheel, and prssure plate (all from Brewers), Lakwood bellhousing and stock A-body pedal assy. I believe it was was the one with the longer 6" throw?? I would like to replace the pedal assy. with a new one though as I had to install a spirng on the brake pedal so it would return all the way.

:help::help::help::help::help:
Derrick
 
Did you use a kit or did you use parts from another stick shift car? I have had problems like this in the past and am still having clutch problems. I have a sneaking suspicion that my z bar is in backwards. One arm is longer than the other and the system acts like the angles aren't right. I had to cut off the adjustment rod because it was too long. I have installed 2 different clutches and could never get them adjusted properly. They always released too close to the floor. I hope I can spend some time tomorrow and flip the z bar and see what happens. Does your clutch pedal return to the top or does it stop an inch from the top? toolmanmike
 
63Belvedere said:
Could it have something to do with the Z-bar I had to fab up and not having enough throw???
Click to expand...

It certainly could. If you're saying that you're out of adjustment on the clutch pushrod, that tells me your lower arm of the Z bar is probably too far away from the clutch fork. For whatever reason.

I was very careful to assemble mine with all new bushings, roller bearings in the pedal pivot, etc. and it still works like crap. Time to fab up a new setup with heim ends... :-(
 
Are you sure you are not overextending the clutch, the lakewood makes it pretty hard to check because there is no inspection port except maybe thru the fork window ?
 
I bet it's a clutch fork pivot issue. Too far from the flywheel, needs a spacer to move it forward.
 
I tell you that I had a problem with my car that was driving me crazy a couple of years ago. One tell tale sign was that I couldn't get the car into reverse without shutting the car off and putting it into reverse than starting up the car again. Assuming that you have enough travel on the clutch to engage and disenage from the flywheel it might be that the pilot bushing is hanging up on the input shaft. My pilot bushing was slightly off and would catch on the input shaft. Once the pilot busing was machined properly the problem went away. I'm not saying that is your problem but food for thought.

Carl
 
hi, change the ratio of your cross shaft. extend the lower arm 1" shorten upper arm 1" . this will shorten up pedal travel a lot!! I did this on my duster, i had to put a wood block under the pedal to keep from pushing it so far down. It makes all the difference for clutch release and engagment. just food for thought.
 
I had to lengthen the adjuster for my fork after installing my Lakewood scattersheild and Centerforce clutch.Works ok now,but need to replace pedal bushingsMust be worn,cause I can feel it catching through my foot.

Maybe get a new Z-bar from Brewers Derrick?
 
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