Standard would have been 9”. But there were option packages that would have triggered the 10” brake option. Or they could have just been an upgrade. If they were factory they should be on your build sheet or fender tag if you have either of those.
Performance online disc brake conversion kit
- Thread starter ultimatejay
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Standard would have been 9”. But there were option packages that would have triggered the 10” brake option. Or they could have just been an upgrade. If they were factory they should be on your build sheet or fender tag if you have either of those.
ultimatejay
Well-Known Member
This is what my fender tag reads-
R11 V5X Y05 EN2
EB3 A04 A21 G33 H51 M21
EB3 D2B7 EB7 113 044671
E24 D31 VL29 COB 235369
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ultimatejay
Well-Known Member
I decoded and theres nothing about brakes. A21 is deluxe rim group.
Yup, you're right, nothing about brakes there. Guess you'd need the build sheet. Brakes aren't usually on the fender tag but sometimes other options that would trigger them are.
But it is a 225 (which was an upgrade from the 198) and had A/C, so who knows.
ultimatejay
Well-Known Member
Ok guys I ended up getting the Dr Diff stage 2 wilwood brake disc conversion kit with master cylinder and valve and the whole 9. I also got the suspension rebuild kit with updated upper control arms and lower ball joints. i also got the adjustable HOtchkis caster strut rods. I installed everything and was backing out of my driveway and my right front tire is rubbing against the fender toward the rear of the car and the left front tire is very close too. It looks like i have way too much negative caster. I have like 6 inches between the front of the tire and front/forward part of the fender opening. I have both the upper control arm eccentric bolts in the center/neutral position. And before you ask its not the tires. I have 15x7 rally wheels with 4.25 BS and 215/60/15 tires. It looks like i just need to add positive caster and bring the wheels forward toward the front of the tire. What am I doing wrong? Any ideas?
ultimatejay
Well-Known Member
No i havnt done the alignment as Im trying to get it driveable to take to the alignment shop. I set the strut rods per the recommended instructions by Hotchkis. I left it a little shorter than specs for give a tad more caster. I'm pretty sure I just need to adjust the ride height and add some caster with the upper control arm bolts.
ultimatejay
Well-Known Member
Ok so here’s what I did. I shortened the hotchkis strut rod as far as it would go. This relieved a lot of rearward force on the control arm. I initially adjusted them per the instructions and it appears they were too long. I also adjusted the upper control arm cam bolts as follows. Front arm cam all three way out and rear arm cam all the way in. Adjusted ride height and now wheels are centered in the wheel well and no rubbing. Now I just need set the toe and double check alignment. One thing that has me confused is the lower control arm pivot pin inner sleeve that is in the bushing seems to have walked out 3/16”. Have you ever seen this and what could cause this. The bushings are brand new and I pressed them all the way in. Here’s a pic
Yeah that pin should not be walking out of that bushing like that. The LCA is way too far back, but it looks like the LCA pin is all the way up against the K so that part is right. Nothing should be pushing the LCA backwards like that.
I wonder if you have the right length strut rods, like maybe you got B/E body strut rods or something. How long are the strut rods now?
I wonder if you have the right length strut rods, like maybe you got B/E body strut rods or something. How long are the strut rods now?
ultimatejay
Well-Known Member
The part number on the box is correct for A body, unless they put a b/e body strut rod in the wrong box. As far as how long they are i turned the heim joint all the way in as short as it will go. Its pretty hard to measure the complete length when its installed on the car but i put the stock factory strut rod next to it and it looked pretty close to the same length.
They’ve been boxed wrong before. There was a thread on this forum about it somewhere. Even if you just measure from the jam nut back to the LCA that would work. I can do the same on my car and compare. They may not be exact, but they should be close at least.
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ultimatejay
Well-Known Member
OK, just got to work and saw your post. I will measure mine as soon as I get home, Thanks
ultimatejay
Well-Known Member
I’m the meantime, here’s some pics of install
ok just measured from jam nut to end of the hex flat on the bar and I have 15”.
I think they’re too long.
I got 14-1/8" on my strut rod, measuring from the far end of the jam nut to the point where the strut rod contacts the LCA. That includes the jam nut in the measurement like you did. I also have about 3/8” to 1/2” of threads showing on the heims still.
I run QA1 LCA's, though I don't believe that should make a difference as I recall that I checked the through-the LCA measurement at one point and found it to be the same as the stock LCA's.
I got 14-1/8" on my strut rod, measuring from the far end of the jam nut to the point where the strut rod contacts the LCA. That includes the jam nut in the measurement like you did. I also have about 3/8” to 1/2” of threads showing on the heims still.
I run QA1 LCA's, though I don't believe that should make a difference as I recall that I checked the through-the LCA measurement at one point and found it to be the same as the stock LCA's.
ultimatejay
Well-Known Member
Ok i got 15 1/2 inches from jam nut to to where the strut rod contacts the LCA. So my rod is 1 3/4" too long. Which makes sense now.
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
I remember someone not to long ago having the same packaged wrong issue.
ultimatejay
Well-Known Member
Guess what???? I called Hotchkis and told them my situation and asked them to measure one they had. So they did and they had the same measurements as I had and I told them it's wrong. So they double checked their drawings and sure enough they packaged them wrong!!!!!! So now they are shipping me the correct ones and I should get them on Friday. What an inconvenience for me and can you imagine what they have to do now. They have to pull all the ones they shipped out to all over the world and have them all checked. What a nightmare. Someone's getting fired..... Its obvious someone over there doesnt know what their doing as this isnt the first time this has happened. I dont see how hard it is to double, triple check things. Its called quality control people!!!!!!!
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
Repeat performance with them saying they were going to fix it. Wish I could find the post from last year. Sounds very familiar.
ultimatejay
Well-Known Member
Whats funny is the guy on the phone said they've never had this issue before. Yeah right......
ultimatejay
Well-Known Member
Just wanted to give my final thoughts on the Dr. Diff willwood brake conversion kit. I was told everything was going to be bolt on, not entirely true. There was two things that I had to modify in order for it to work. First thing was the new wire braided brake lines where they secure to the inner fender bracket with the clip- the factory hole was too small for the brake line to go into so I had to get a rat tail file and enlarge the hole. Not a big deal but another trip to get a tool and about 10-15 minutes per side. Second thing was the brake valve. The factory valve arm that secures the valve to the frame is about 1" longer than the new unit. So I had to bend 5 brake lines in order for it to fit. Was a pain in the *** and I'm lucky this is a California car so not a lot of rust on the lines so none of them cracked. Little things like this should be mentioned. And I emailed Cass at Dr Diff prior to installation and asked if there was anything I needed to know about the install and he never replied. Oh, yeah one more thing. With the new master cylinder installed brake pedal to master rod is a little too short. So I had to turn my brake light switch in and now all of sudden it doesnt work so it probably took a ****. So much for, " Its a direct bolt in kit"- Don't give me that BS!!!!!
Divenut
Well-Known Member
Welcome to the world of project cars.
First, absolutely nothing is 100 % “direct bolt-on” for every 50+ year old car when you’re talking about aftermarket parts. These cars were definitely not all identical rolling off the assembly line. What bolts right on to one car may require modification on another.
Second, the brake line thing. I think my earlier posts made it pretty clear that if you switch from a distribution block to the later combination valve you’d need to modify some brake lines. The combination valve DoctorDiff sells is an exact reproduction of the original disk brake combination valve. It is a direct bolt on if you use brake lines made for a later disk/drum car. If you reuse the drum brake lines intended for a distribution block, you need to make modifications. That’s not DoctorDiff’s fault, if you use disk brake lines like you’re supposed to they fit fine.
Adjusting the brake light switch is something that’s required pretty much any time you change major brake components, that’s part of the deal too.
ultimatejay
Well-Known Member
Well I would agree but I emailed Cass and told him exactly what I had and asked him is there anything I need to know/do/buy in order for this to work on my car and he said nothing. Never even replied like I was bothering him with stupid questions even though I'm a masTer tech for 26 years
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ultimatejay
Well-Known Member
Some pics
ultimatejay
Well-Known Member
Made torsion bar tool
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