Pertronix question

-
cudamark

cudamark

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2009
Messages
11,818
Reaction score
3,476
Location
San Diego
I'm doing a renovation, and decided to go with Pertronix for improved ignition dependability and stock look. I'm working with a '66 273 4bbl with the Prestolite distributor. I've used the stock dual points in the past with little problem, but, I thought it would be nice not to have to replace them periodically. Looking at the various websites and trying to decide which version to get was a lesson in futility. No way you could look up the proper kit by using the distributor number, no firm application shown, so, I called Pertronix and talked with someone who sounded knowledgeable about this application. He said the 1383 kit is the one I should get for this mild performance cruiser. I mentioned that I wanted to keep as stock a look as possible. He claimed I could use the stock coil and ballast resistor IF there was a minimum 8V to their module, and the coil had 1.5 ohms resistance. Well, as I have figured out, and you all probably know, the stock system doesn't have those specs.
My question is: Is there a Mopar coil with those specs that look like the original for 1966 or just break down (bend over) and get the Pertronix coil, peel the sticker, and leave it black? Is there a repop sticker or decal that looks like the factory coil lettering? Can I just gut the ballast resistor and solder a wire in place of the resistor winding? Any other surprises with this conversion? Thanks.
 
the ignitor 1 needs the ballast, you need to use the 2 or 3 to delete the ballast. any 1.5 ohm coil should work. you have a 12v electrical system in the car so you're good there too
 
My Petronix set up failed within a few hundred miles.

I replaced it with a Mopar Performance electronic distributor, then all good.

Until the Petronix coil failed too.

Original coil back in and all has been well for close to 2 years. :)
 
cast iron Prestolite/Pertronix ignitor conversion

use their coil and paint it flat black//did without a ballast or sleeper the ballast like it is mentioned in these threads ////I'm really not a points guy(tried-gap=dwell)=HALIFAXHOPS is a GOD//I luv mine ,idle and throttle response insanely improved with my conversion which supports the fact that I wasnt good at points...
 
Last edited:
Mopar electronic dizzy with vacuum advance. ditch the ballast , connect those 2 ballast wires together and fire it with a GM 4 pin HEI module. HEI modules use 12V and dont need to be hobbled down to 6V to run. See www.designed2drive.com for the nifty little module mounting plate right on the distributor. Heres an HEI to mopar schematic. Use a pertronix ignitor 3 coil with a .3 ohm primary. Waaay hotter spark, faster starts, better idle, better acceleration, better fuel economy. My setup below with my own one off GM module to mopar electronic pickup adaptor plug

HEI.jpg


Screenshot_2016-12-28-22-20-20.png


downloadfile-2.jpg


downloadfile-20.jpg


downloadfile-10.jpg


downloadfile-14.jpg


20150111_140121.jpeg


downloadfile-16.jpg
 
Just did one on my GTX because I wanted to use the cast iron dual point for a stock look. Also my car is a stick and I had been looking to put some sort of rev limiter on it. I had the DC (Mopar Perf) dist kit and was happy except for the look of the aluminum dist housing and the ICU that was not used on my car until later.

Bought the Igniter 3 conversion kit and their coil as required. Bottom breaker plate replacement fit well in the cast iron housing, but I was concerned with the top module plate staying in place so I modified with a couple screws on the edges to keep it in place, made sure it was well grounded as I imagine that could be related to reliability. Black coil looks close enough for me. Leaving the ballast resister in place with a dummy wire to nowhere for looks. Got it in and it works better than I had hoped and the rev limiter also works well.
 
I love my pertronix III it is hidden and better than any I have tried! One must follow all the rules for full success!
 
Last edited:
moparmat2000 said:
Mopar electronic dizzy with vacuum advance. ditch the ballast , connect those 2 ballast wires together and fire it with a GM 4 pin HEI module. HEI modules use 12V and dont need to be hobbled down to 6V to run. See www.designed2drive.com for the nifty little module mounting plate right on the distributor. Heres an HEI to mopar schematic. Use a pertronix ignitor 3 coil with a .3 ohm primary. Waaay hotter spark, faster starts, better idle, better acceleration, better fuel economy. My setup below with my own one off GM module to mopar electronic pickup adaptor plug

View attachment 1715541838

View attachment 1715541839

View attachment 1715541840

View attachment 1715541841

View attachment 1715541842

View attachment 1715541843

View attachment 1715541844

View attachment 1715541845
Click to expand...


That looks like a ambonatiion to me. No disrespect to you, but not on my Mopar! Any non Mopar items need to be out of sight and hidden.
 
Done right a great fire and well hidden! Not sure they make or are making a dual point conversion in Ignitor III.

33719AE5-2D84-4547-B741-135ABCBC6C99.jpeg
 
Yes, the #1383 is what I used. Here's a thread I started long ago. There was no application for the 273 dual points back then so I sent a distributor to Pertronix and they found a Igniter for it.
It was the same one for late 50's Hemi dual point distributors.
I used their coil and got 12 volts from the power side of the ballast.
Working on electronic ignition conversion for HP273 dual point distributors

cudamark said:
I'm doing a renovation, and decided to go with Pertronix for improved ignition dependability and stock look. I'm working with a '66 273 4bbl with the Prestolite distributor. I've used the stock dual points in the past with little problem, but, I thought it would be nice not to have to replace them periodically. Looking at the various websites and trying to decide which version to get was a lesson in futility. No way you could look up the proper kit by using the distributor number, no firm application shown, so, I called Pertronix and talked with someone who sounded knowledgeable about this application. He said the 1383 kit is the one I should get for this mild performance cruiser. I mentioned that I wanted to keep as stock a look as possible. He claimed I could use the stock coil and ballast resistor IF there was a minimum 8V to their module, and the coil had 1.5 ohms resistance. Well, as I have figured out, and you all probably know, the stock system doesn't have those specs.
My question is: Is there a Mopar coil with those specs that look like the original for 1966 or just break down (bend over) and get the Pertronix coil, peel the sticker, and leave it black? Is there a repop sticker or decal that looks like the factory coil lettering? Can I just gut the ballast resistor and solder a wire in place of the resistor winding? Any other surprises with this conversion? Thanks.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
1969383S said:
That looks like a ambonatiion to me. No disrespect to you, but not on my Mopar! Any non Mopar items need to be out of sight and hidden.
Click to expand...
Well whatever works for you. I went this route because it's all off the shelf auto parts store stuff. What do you do if your far away from home and the pertronix module craps out, or the fancy $500 tune with your phone bluetooth connected one craps out. This hides nicely on a small block because of distributor location. Replacement module is about $20. No ballast resistor and hot spark. I believe pertronix has no ballast either, but never fooled with one.

As far as someone not stealing your car, the digital distributor will help thwart amateur thieves, but pro car thieves will get your **** overnight if they want it bad enough, your at an away car show overnight, and its parked in a parking lot. They dont even need to start it. It's called a rollback, or regular tow truck.
 
I know, a real pro is going to take your car with a roll off in broad day light !!! I get the idea and sound mind of "off the shelf parts" as points are becoming unicorns with the kid behind the counter....I do believe tech has a place in keeping our prized dino's running rather it be a dizzy,oil or sealers...:icon_fU: Gotta admit they did damn good without CAD back then and the slide ruler ,ruled
But as long as the discussion is about dizzy's, the idea of adjusting your timing and curve due to inconsistent high octane **** gas,hei,male/female cap options and if they are pursuing my earlier suggestion of an knock sensor, I'm in
 
jazak5 said:
cast iron Prestolite/Pertronix ignitor conversion

use their coil and paint it flat black//did without a ballast or sleeper the ballast like it is mentioned in these threads ////I'm really not a points guy(tried-gap=dwell)=HALIFAX is a GOD//I luv mine ,idle and throttle response insanely improved with my conversion which supports the fact that I wasnt good at points...
Click to expand...

Thanks. Petronix is great. You need 12 volts to the unit to get 100% out of it and toss the points coil and get a good one for electronic ignition. Their flamethrower is a good unit and puts out 40 KV. Also jump the ballast resistor. Thing with petronix it either fails immediately or last a long time. The company is great about replacing units. I prefer the original Petronix I's
 
I used just the Pertronix trigger to replace the 235hp dual points in my ‘65 Dart convertible With a 904 three years ago with no problems so far. It starts and idles better. I’m still using the stock coil and ballast resistor, but do plan to replace the coil and bypass the resistor eventually. I have 235hp 4-speed coupe under restoration too, and plan to do the same with it. Also plan to have halifaxhops rebuild both distributors. Neither car will be driver hard, or many miles. Just local cruising. I’m trying to keep both cars as stock as possible.
 
azaustin said:
I used just the Pertronix trigger to replace the 235hp dual points in my ‘65 Dart convertible With a 904 three years ago with no problems so far. It starts and idles better. I’m still using the stock coil and ballast resistor, but do plan to replace the coil and bypass the resistor eventually. I have 235hp 4-speed coupe under restoration too, and plan to do the same with it. Also plan to have halifaxhops rebuild both distributors. Neither car will be driver hard, or many miles. Just local cruising. I’m trying to keep both cars as stock as possible.
Click to expand...
Which kit did you use? You really were able to use the stock Mopar coil and ballast resistor? I keep getting conflicting stories.
 
I use/kept the stock coil and ballast resistor also, I repaired the vehicle on a road trip (with the Petronix trigger) and that was easiest for me at the time. Never got around to replacing anything else. No problems so far.
 
moparmat2000 said:
Well whatever works for you. I went this route because it's all off the shelf auto parts store stuff. What do you do if your far away from home and the pertronix module craps out, or the fancy $500 tune with your phone bluetooth connected one craps out. This hides nicely on a small block because of distributor location. Replacement module is about $20. No ballast resistor and hot spark. I believe pertronix has no ballast either, but never fooled with one.

As far as someone not stealing your car, the digital distributor will help thwart amateur thieves, but pro car thieves will get your **** overnight if they want it bad enough, your at an away car show overnight, and its parked in a parking lot. They dont even need to start it. It's called a rollback, or regular tow truck.
Click to expand...

I keep the points breaker and a 11 n 1 in the glove box just in case. It will get me home!
 
Sounds like RealWing experienced what I had concerns about regarding the module plate. That's why I went ahead and drilled and tapped a couple holes for large headed screws, thread locked and set to about 0.005" clearance, to keep the module plate in place from the get go. Seems to be working well, though I can't say I have thousands of miles or years of run time yet as I did this recently. Like the rev limiter, though it seems a little different then the analog ones I ran 30 plus years ago, but it's nice to have especially when I let someone else give the car a try for fun.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top