MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Ditto. It lost oil pressure. Good luck trying to convince the experts. You're nailing it in a nutshell however.
Pieces of steel in cylinder??
- Thread starter Righty Tighty
- Start date
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Aww man, what’d I miss??!
There’s quite a bit to reply to, I’ll get to it ASAP. Thanks again for all the good info everyone.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
You missed RAMBLINGS from a member named KARL, who ran off at the mouth like a teenage girl ,confused me with someone else and accused me of stealing...disgraceful clown. With how much he confuses and gets wrong...I'm amazed he is a tech editor here, that in itself is embarrassing and could only be pulled off by plagiarism.
Thank for sharing, we look forward to the outcome of your scenario.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Kinda like a WWI artillery barrage.. most just hunker down in their bunkers and hope to not get a direct hit. We'll list you as AWOL LOL
I'll pull the plugs in a few days, will post up some pics when I do. The guy at the machine shop pulled the cam and said the bearings were bad, I haven't seem them yet. I did ask him to save them for me though.
This car will just be a grocery getter, with a little added horsepower. It'll never see a track, just a cruiser with some pick up and go. The engine?? Well, I'd just like to see it back running, BUT I did pick up a 5.9 360 Magnum to rebuild, slowly. I know many here will disagree and say I shouldn't even bother with the 318, but damn I sure do want to just get the Scamp back on the road.
Even at .040 I don't think it's junk if it needs boring. Hensley Motorsports builds 318s all the time boring to 4" and beyond. All Sonic tested of course and machined to the nth degree. They've been doing that better than 25 years. You've already mentioned the shop saying the cylinders looked good. Is the jury still out there? If it will run at .040, I'd run it. If it needs boring, I recommend sonic checking it.
The shop is going forward with just a cylinder hone. One thing I'm concerned about is the crank, and how undersized the journals are already. He suggested grinding and polishing, but if I can't find bearings larger than .040", I might be up a creek without a paddle.
Crank bearings can be had all the way to .060. A lot of people will scream about it, but stack .060 up on a feeler gauge. It ain't "THAT MUCH". Especially on what will be a mild build like yours. I'd do it in a minute.
BUT.......all THAT said, since you HAVE a crank, what I would do in THAT case is just get a crank kit. It will be ready to go with bearings and all and probably be about the same cost as turning the one you have.
Debur and polish the .040 crank just as it is and put the new .040 bearings back in. You don't have a bunch of lines cut into the crank, it will polish up and give you the .002 oil film barrier you need to run it.
Crankshafts are tough as long as they are not scored, burned, or gouged.
As Crazy as it sounds I would take a shot at saving those .040 pistons too. Debur the top outter crown above the top ring groove, pick out any hardened steel fragments and get rid if any high spots. Clean all the ring grooves and see what you got.
As one of my mentors told me, go ahead and try, the worst you can do is screw it up.
Find a new or used set of .040 pistons, can put them in too.
I agree and I would also run an HV oil pump and the hardened intermediate shaft.
Righty Tighty, how does the camshaft look, can probably reuse that too with a new set of lifters on it if it is not gouged up or one lobe going flat.
Did you like the way it ran, performed and idled with that cam, your original grind ? If so run her again.
Of course everything needs a good final inspection to make sure it will run out properly for you.
Did you like the way it ran, performed and idled with that cam, your original grind ? If so run her again.
Of course everything needs a good final inspection to make sure it will run out properly for you.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Dodge 5.2 318 Crankshaft with Main and Rod Bearings | eBay
90.00 to grind a crank around here, bearings are how much?
269.00 shipped free to your door,
90.00 to grind a crank around here, bearings are how much?
269.00 shipped free to your door,
You could always get another crank...
Yes, It appears that I did confuse you with someone else.. Sorry for my error...
You may want to look into the Mancini Racing engine rebuild kits... They are a good deal and I would recommend using the "C" kit:
Sealed Power kit:
C-KIT Includes:
-Sealed Power Rod bearings
-Sealed Power Main bearings
-Sealed Power Cam Bearings
-Freeze Plugs
-Melling Oil Pump
-Felpro Gasket Set
-Sealed Power Rings (Moly)
-Sterling Pistons (Cast)
Sealed Power Piston Rebuild Kit - "C"
CLevite kit:
C-KIT Includes:
-Clevite Rod bearings
-Clevite Main bearings
-Clevite Cam Bearings
-Freeze Plugs
-Melling Oil Pump
-Felpro Gasket Set
-Sealed Power Rings (Moly)
-Sterling Pistons (Cast)
Clevite 77 Engine Kit - "C"
However, some of the pistons that come with the kits are low compression, but if you want higher compression pistons, call them and they can substitute them for the difference in cost...
I'm not sure I follow. You mentioned a crank kit, but they come with cranks, right?
I'm going to talk to the machinist and ask his opinion on just polishing instead of grinding. You're right, the surfaces are just about glass smooth. I'm not sure about saving the pistons, I've got it torn down this far so I don't think I want to chance it. Especially as a beginner.
The camshaft was still in when I dropped it off at the shop, but what I could see looked good. My dad agreed. I loved how it performed, maybe would've liked just a tad more power. But I think the 4bbl and intake I'm dropping in might do it?
And krazykuda, I do like the idea of an engine kit, since I'm gonna need all that anyway...
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
It is common for a "crank kit" not to include the crank, just the bearings
dbl check
no free lunch
and if doing a complete engine kit including crank and rebuilt rods with new bolts time to think of a stroker
dbl check
no free lunch
and if doing a complete engine kit including crank and rebuilt rods with new bolts time to think of a stroker
Yes. The crank kit I refer to has crankshaft and bearings. Rods and mains. They are very reasonable. That's the way I would go.
Keep in mind that the kits have some standard parts, but Mancini will let you upgrade for the difference in cost...
Like the Federal Mogul freeze plug kit only comes with two oil galley plugs and all the freeze plugs, Mancini has a house brand kit that has most all of the freeze plugs and oil galley plugs....
MRE-113BR is the mancini kit that has the most plugs that I would recommend....
Mancini Racing Brass Freeze Plug Kit
Also research different pistons and get the proper compression that you want... The kits usually have around 8.0 compression ones...
I RARELY get a kit. I pay the extra cost to pick and choose the individual parts that I want, rather than let someone else cut corners trying to make them more profit. It costs more, but I can choose the parts that I want.
I kinda had a rule of thumb that once a crank had to go past .20/.020 I didn't use it. That is just my way of thinking. I know others that run them way beyond. As far as buying a complete crank kit or customizing it depends on the intended use of the engine.
I'm thinking about a 408 stroker with the 360 I have.
I'd really just like to get this engine running reliably and back in the car while I build up the 360. I don't plan on racing or anything, just cruising around town really.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
.040" under, or more, should be OK for your use of this engine if the crank polishes out. But you need to ask the machinist to measure it first to make sure it is not worn too far. The crank pix look to me like it had some wear so don't get too far ahead of yourself; no way for any of us to say without putting a micrometer on it.
If needed, I just saw a crank kit with crank and all bearings (mains and rods) for $209 less tax or shipping. You might do better on another box parts store site.
Will you re-use your existing pistons with the cylinder honing? Oh, I forgot that damaged one. You COULD replace just that one. Not saying you should but if $$ are tight....
If needed, I just saw a crank kit with crank and all bearings (mains and rods) for $209 less tax or shipping. You might do better on another box parts store site.
Will you re-use your existing pistons with the cylinder honing? Oh, I forgot that damaged one. You COULD replace just that one. Not saying you should but if $$ are tight....
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