Pieces of steel in cylinder??

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Well, considering how long it will likely take to build the 360 how I want it, the 318 may be in the car for up to a year or more. That makes me lean towards just buying a new crank, especially comparing the cost to the machining cost.

I failed to mention that that piston was the MOST damaged, not* the only one damaged. I’m amazed that the walls weren’t damaged, but sure enough, very smooth. Couldn’t feel anything with my fingernail. That said, I think I’m just gonna let my wallet take the hit instead of taking chances. Looks like more overtime for me!

*Edited to say the piston was NOT the only one damaged.
 
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Keep your eye on the prize. Here is one I am swapping into my truck tomorrow with the 340 cam in it that I want.

Your new/reman crank kit is a good idea. Hope you can reuse your cam, sounds like a good grind on that one for how you are using it.

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George Jets said:
Keep your eye on the prize. Here is one I am swapping into my truck tomorrow with the 340 cam in it that I want.

Your new/reman crank kit is a good idea. Hope you can reuse your cam, sounds like a good grind on that one for how you are using it.

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You need to post a video of this running. I really want to hear it.
 
RustyRatRod said:
You need to post a video of this running. I really want to hear it.
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OK will do. More motivation to get it done, lol . .

Truck has a nice 2" H-Pipe dual exhaust all the way out the back with AP Enforcer Mufflers and Resonators at the back. Should sound real nice with that 340 cam and the Weiand 8022 Stealth aluminum intake.

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nm9stheham said:
If needed, I just saw a crank kit with crank and all bearings (mains and rods) for $209 less tax or shipping. You might do better on another box parts store site.
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Mind if I ask where you found it? I've searched several vendors and found a few, but none as low as $209. I looked at Summit, Rock Auto, Jegs, etc.
 
Righty Tighty said:
Mind if I ask where you found it? I've searched several vendors and found a few, but none as low as $209. I looked at Summit, Rock Auto, Jegs, etc.
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AuotZone. I think Oreillys offers them too and probably Advance/Carquest. Can't tell you if any one is better or worse. There are also Crankshaft Supply in MN and Ohio Crankshaft.

On your pistons, the tallest stockish ones out there are the Sealed Power H814CP's. There are taller pistons out there (for higher CR) but they are all lighter and require some minor crank balance work. That crank work could be simple but takes a few steps and a cooperative shop.

Higher CR works to help lower RPM torque, mainly down in the under-2500 RPM range which helps make it better for grocery-getting type street driving. If you wanted to improve that, then I'd suggest a few options:
  • those H814CP pistons, and the thinnest head gaskets (Mr Gasket 1121G); look under '95 5.2L Magnum for that piston
  • mill heads .040" or .050" and use the standard Felpro kit head gaskets and those same pistons; this will push CR up over half a point from the stock leve
 
brass freeze plugs
polish is good if that works
.060 is fine
or turn the rod throws down to chevy size (or Honda)
or cut the mains to 318 size if a 360 crank sell it with the dampner
what NM just said
340 cam is a step 50 years back in time but it's cheap
but do not advance another 4 degrees- kills your power stroke and mileage
new timing chain
 
Boy, I feel more and more naive the deeper I get into this car. BUT I can guarantee it'll never happen again. Somebody just rattle canned this sucker (most likely as it sat in the engine compartment). Just sad.
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Hahaha, oh it’s 100% minor!! I’m just seeing all these things, that in hindsight, would’ve been red flags. But, I’ll take this as a lesson to learn going forward.
 
Righty Tighty said:
Boy, I feel more and more naive the deeper I get into this car. BUT I can guarantee it'll never happen again. Somebody just rattle canned this sucker (most likely as it sat in the engine compartment). Just sad.
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While your doing all this, you should buy a Milodon high flow water pump. Last one I bought was under 80 bucks. Worth every single penny. Now is the time to do it.
 
AFIK Don Bass of TMS Propane (a genius IMHO) came up with the idea of welding plates to the fins of stock pumps.
He worked with Speed-O-Motive and sold a full line
Later many others went into the custom pump business
and yes - it does make a big difference
WORTH EVERY PENNY
flow, cavitation, hp required to run, lower pulley ratio allowed, etc
I ran lots of dyno tests
They were used on the Chrysler BBM Propane City Bus Project mostly for San Jose CA
(cam, heads, piston R and D I've mentioned before)
cuts down hot spots
Don was a pioneer in the welding up of the chambers of open chamber MOPAR heads and the development of what is now the KB quench pistons design for open chamber heads.
Another of Don's application was in ground pollution abatement
You would drill a series of wells (induction vents) around the pollution plume- say a leaking gas storage tank) and place a suction well in the center hooked to the intake of your victim motor. Fire the motor up on propane then start sucking the bad gas air mixture- Propane would adjust to how much bad stuff you were burning. Sometimes it run entirely on bad well gas
Now was this easy on seats/ valves/ rings/ cylinder walls
NO
did they run hot- well all over the place 24/7
which is why I spec some of the seats/ valve guides etc that I do
We used plated pumps in these applications
Factory sponsored some of this R&D but never put into production- they gave up on the BBM
BTW MOPAR worked as well as 460 Ford- no way to make a chevy live
 
Righty Tighty said:
Boy, I feel more and more naive the deeper I get into this car. BUT I can guarantee it'll never happen again. Somebody just rattle canned this sucker (most likely as it sat in the engine compartment). Just sad.
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The good thing is I do not see any mineral deposits on the pump, and it looks fairly new.
I had my first car, gave to me by my grandfather, 65 coronet, froze my butt off in it the first winter. Actually put a small kerosene heater in the back seat to at least keep the windows de-fogged, yup young and dumb.
As soon as spring hit, it over-heated, all the impeller blades had rusted off the water pump.
 
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Well, here’s the last of the damage. Got the block back from the machine shop, and he saved the cam bearings so I could show y’all.
 
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