Pissed off with motor, want to change

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Mopar to ya said:
I pulled the dizzy, turned the gear so that the #1 was pointing at the first driver's side intake bolt and reinstalled. !
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That wasn't it, you must have had the timing wrong or bad wires or you had the wires mixed up.

The dist might well not have been tight enough and it slip when the base got wet as you started the motor in the car wash.

Soooo, when are you going back to the car wash again,:angel4:
 
Please don't take this the wrong way but if you know of a good shop for older cars near by you might want to have them give it a tune up, they might get it running better yet. The dist might need to be re-curved, the carb tweet with, maybe next spring..sure be cheaper than a new motor.

I would change the oil soon to protect the cam
 
dodge freak said:
That wasn't it, you must have had the timing wrong or bad wires or you had the wires mixed up.

The dist might well not have been tight enough and it slip when the base got wet as you started the motor in the car wash.

Soooo, when are you going back to the car wash again,:angel4:
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I know that wasn't it. I just wanted it at the proper spot. The problem was the brand new Accel wires I installed first. And no, the wires wren't mixed up. Believe me, I checked them at least ten times. The distributor was tight. One of the original wires had hit the header and had a burned through spot on it. I found that and said, hell yes, water got in here and this is my problem. I replaced them all with a new Accel set and still had the problem. Of course, you never think new parts are bad, so you look elsewhere. As for the tune up, it is done. The only thing that isn't is a distributor rebuild, and that won't be necessary. This motor only has to make it through the summer and it's gone. I could rebuild the carb, but as long as it runs well, I'm not going to bother. All I wanted was a little more power and a nice sound for a quick afternoons work and it turned into a nightmare. No more for me. New motor this winter. Minor body and interior stuff all summer. Car wash tomorrow, but damned if I am going to open that hood! :)
 
dodge freak said:
Please don't take this the wrong way but if you know of a good shop for older cars near by you might want to have them give it a tune up, they might get it running better yet. The dist might need to be re-curved, the carb tweet with, maybe next spring..sure be cheaper than a new motor.

I would change the oil soon to protect the cam
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I changed the oil before start up with Valvoline VR1 racing oil due to it's high zinc content. Going to drive it a few days and change the oil again.
 
start off with spraying and wiping the inside of the distributor with wd-40, if that don't cure it start pullin off plug wires from the distributor cap one at a time and replacin em till ya find the dead cylinder (this can be a shocking experience) (but it's good for the soul) when ya locate the dead cylinder.....check the plug,replace the plug whatever works..........then pull the valve cover if that didn't fix it....see how far the pushrod went thru the rocker.....if that didn't happen then spin the motor over with coil wire disconnected at the coil.....if it resembles my ex wifes chest then you have camatosis(absense of cam lobe) thats not good......if you have camatosis then all that metal from the cam lobe and the bottom of the lifter is inside the engine......i'd recomend going thru that puppie
 
waggin said:
start off with spraying and wiping the inside of the distributor with wd-40, if that don't cure it start pullin off plug wires from the distributor cap one at a time and replacin em till ya find the dead cylinder (this can be a shocking experience) (but it's good for the soul) when ya locate the dead cylinder.....check the plug,replace the plug whatever works..........then pull the valve cover if that didn't fix it....see how far the pushrod went thru the rocker.....if that didn't happen then spin the motor over with coil wire disconnected at the coil.....if it resembles my ex wifes chest then you have camatosis(absense of cam lobe) thats not good......if you have camatosis then all that metal from the cam lobe and the bottom of the lifter is inside the engine......i'd recomend going thru that puppie
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Thanks, but it is fixed. It was bad wires replaced with a bad brand new set of Accels. I installed a $13 set from O'Reilly's and it runs perfectly.
 
jimmyray said:
Having the oil pump drive gear a tooth off really does not matter, because you can rotate the distributor to compensate.
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I've seen this statement on here before and it's not true. It does matter. As you rotate the distributor to compensate you also change the phasing of the reluctor in relation to the pickup. So now you have the rotor lined up with the terminal in the cap but it didn't fire at that time. It fired either before or after the terminal. This can cause crossfiring as the spark has to jump a longer gap. Increased voltage to jump that gap can lead to a weak spark at the plug as the voltage has been used up jumping the rotor to cap terminal gap.

Now on just a regular street car this may or may not be a big deal but on a high performance engine with higher cylinder pressure, low vacuum at idle and high powered ignition systems it becomes more critical. Take an extra minute or two and set it up correctly, you'll save yourself a lot of headaches later.
 
I chuckled when I read through 4 pages of responses. Mopar to ya mentioned in his first couple posts that it ran good until he washed around the engine. Wow, the thread really got off track. Never overlook the obvious. I'll bet you're glad it's fixed. I have a strange rough idle with my car that I haven't been able to fix
(yet) I may have to take it to someone with a scope for a fresh set of eyes. toolman
 
I loved following along and reading through 4 pages of stuff to find out I was right.....(its usually ends up being a spark plug wire breaking down, or ignition related) 4 pages back.

Glad a $13 set of wires fixed ya up!

How about a burnout video for us all now?

:burnout:
 
Guitar Jones said:
I've seen this statement on here before and it's not true. It does matter. As you rotate the distributor to compensate you also change the phasing of the reluctor in relation to the pickup. So now you have the rotor lined up with the terminal in the cap but it didn't fire at that time. It fired either before or after the terminal. This can cause crossfiring as the spark has to jump a longer gap. Increased voltage to jump that gap can lead to a weak spark at the plug as the voltage has been used up jumping the rotor to cap terminal gap.

Now on just a regular street car this may or may not be a big deal but on a high performance engine with higher cylinder pressure, low vacuum at idle and high powered ignition systems it becomes more critical. Take an extra minute or two and set it up correctly, you'll save yourself a lot of headaches later.
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I agree with this! 2 teeth off= 90 deg. of rotation, to compensate, thats a bunch.
 
Guitar Jones said:
I've seen this statement on here before and it's not true. It does matter. As you rotate the distributor to compensate you also change the phasing of the reluctor in relation to the pickup. So now you have the rotor lined up with the terminal in the cap but it didn't fire at that time. It fired either before or after the terminal. This can cause crossfiring as the spark has to jump .
Click to expand...

...
 
Guitar Jones said:
I've seen this statement on here before and it's not true. It does matter. As you rotate the distributor to compensate you also change the phasing of the reluctor in relation to the pickup. So now you have the rotor lined up with the terminal in the cap but it didn't fire at that time. It fired either before or after the terminal. This can cause crossfiring as the spark has to jump a longer gap. Increased voltage to jump that gap can lead to a weak spark at the plug as the voltage has been used up jumping the rotor to cap terminal gap.

Now on just a regular street car this may or may not be a big deal but on a high performance engine with higher cylinder pressure, low vacuum at idle and high powered ignition systems it becomes more critical. Take an extra minute or two and set it up correctly, you'll save yourself a lot of headaches later.
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Does not matter as long as the vacuum advance clears the firewall or intake manifold...
 
Prine said:
I loved following along and reading through 4 pages of stuff to find out I was right.....(its usually ends up being a spark plug wire breaking down, or ignition related) 4 pages back.

Glad a $13 set of wires fixed ya up!

How about a burnout video for us all now?

:burnout:
Click to expand...

The very first thing I changed were the plug wires. That's why I never suspected them again. You don't expect new parts to be defective. I have to get my kids to do the video. My wife can barely dial a cell phone much less use the camcorder app.
 
Jimmyray, I know you and a couple other guys are going back and forth on the distributor issue. I don't know enough to comment on who is right or who is wrong, so I will throw this out for you all to chew on. When I posted the pics of the dizzy and the reluctor was off the pick up, I had the timing marks at zero. The rotor was pointing straight down the middle of the car. I pulled the dizzy, turned the gear so the rotor was pointing at the front left intake bolt, set the timing mark at zero and the reluctor lined up dead on the pick up. I have heard it said it wouldn't matter where the gear was, and I agreed, but apparently it does make a difference. Or I screwed something up ... as usual! :)
 
Glad you found it. I never use Accel wires, BTW...lol. Learned that a long time ago.
 
Mopar to ya said:
Jimmyray, I know you and a couple other guys are going back and forth on the distributor issue. I don't know enough to comment on who is right or who is wrong, so I will throw this out for you all to chew on. When I posted the pics of the dizzy and the reluctor was off the pick up, I had the timing marks at zero. The rotor was pointing straight down the middle of the car. I pulled the dizzy, turned the gear so the rotor was pointing at the front left intake bolt, set the timing mark at zero and the reluctor lined up dead on the pick up. I have heard it said it wouldn't matter where the gear was, and I agreed, but apparently it does make a difference. Or I screwed something up ... as usual! :)
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Did you reset your timing before you observed the alignment? If not, your timing is set to 0 degrees.
 
jimmyray, I got out of this because you and I started to go sideways. I'm sure much was a misundertstanding. But you are ABSOLUTELY CORRECT about one thing---where the drive gear is, and where the dist. is, HAS NOTHING TO DO with timing a typical V8.

You can throw the drive gear in "any old way."

Throw the dist in "any old way" (Mopar, Chiv, Ferd)

Then bring up no1 on the compression stroke, set your marks as desired, and LOOK WHERE the rotor is. Stick no1 in that hole and it will run perfect

Rotor phasing is bullshit

THERE ARE ENGINES where this matters. Some industrial 4 bangers have uneven spacing between adjacent cylinders. So do some V6's You can find V6 dist caps where every other pair of plug towers is spaced further/ closer, and on the old points dists, you can SEE the odd spacing on the points cam. On these engines, you MUST get the correct "hole."

My first car was a 57 Chiv. The first couple of times I tore it down, I didn't even KNOW there was a "right way" to install the dist. A service station jock opened the hood --back when they did that-- (1966) and announced--your engine can't run right--the distributor is out of time!!!!!

An example of a V6 cap which MUST have the "right hole" lined up

http://www.ipdusa.com/uploads/images_products_slideshow/fullsize_5096.jpg
 
mopar head said:
So, is this guy selling snake-oil?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mopa...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item336a7d98d0
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No. The only way to correct the phasing between the rotor and the reluctor is to index one relative to the other. The reluctor you see has multiple slots, like an adjustable timing chain sprocket, each probably moving the rotation of the reluctor 5 degrees relative to the rotor, thus moving the phasing. A good idea, actually. A little pricy, though.
 
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