Planning on 225 /6 Rebuild, any tips, links, advice? Cost estimate $1,215

[DMitch]

So I'm hoping on doing a rebuild of a slant six I picked up last week. The guy said it was running but still recommended a rebuild of it. He took the rocker arms and carburetor. The year is a 66 or 67 I believe and it came out of a Valiant or Dart. And I plan on putting it in my 1967 Plymouth Barracuda Fastback.

The machinist/mechanic I talked to was pretty cool. Said for him to do it, it would be about $2,000.
But for me to do it, it'll be $1215 (for the rebuild kit ($650) and the machine work)

So this weekend I'll take it apart. Monday I'll take the block to him, order the kit, and have him start on the block.
The kit takes two days to get in town so I'll have it by Wednesday. He said it'll take a week to work on the block so hopefully by Friday it'll be ready for the rebuild. Pretty excited but a little nervous to be rebuild an engine! I have my dad who's done it before, but it's been awhile for him. I also got a shop manual from my friend's dad who's a mechanic.

Here's some pictures of it

 

[Tbone416]

enginetec has the kit for about 400 bone's might save you some money.

 

[RustyRatRod]

You must have a really cheap machinist.

 

[krazykuda]

Dave Crower from Crower cams made a nice custom grind cam for my ex's slant a few years ago when we had the engine rebuilt. It was 260° duration and .495" lift. She's happy with the way that her car runs. Stock slant with a 1 bbl and single exhaust.

 

[krazykuda]

There's a place in Michigan that sells new exhaust manifold castings also. I ordered one from them and it was at my door in less than a week for just under $200 with all kinds of hardware and brackets to hook it up. Now I can't remember the name of the company, but when I do, I'll post it back up.... :banghead:


Silverseal

734-479-2255

http://www.silver-seal.com/

 

[nm9stheham]

Give us a list of what the machinist is going to do to check off. I would be wanting: (And this is just off the top of my head and in general; varies with what I know of the engine before.)
- Hot tanked
- Bored for new pistons
- Deck checked to crank
- Rods checked; reconditioned if needed
- Crank checked for straightness and journals good; reground if needed
- New cam bearings installed
- Guides resized or replaced
- Valve job
- Head and block checked for cracks if you were having any heating issues before

BTW, some rural area machinists are good and not expensive; out local guy checked and reconditioned a pair of stock 4.7L heads, including getting out 5 broken studs and putting in helicoils, all for $220. He does excellent race engine work and owns the local dirt track too.

 

[Charrlie_S]

Looking at the mounts, and timing tab, the engine looks to be a 67 or newer. If you are going to put it in a 67 car, you need to check the pilot hole in the end of the crank. The size of the hole changed between 67 and 68. If it is the small hole, a 68 trans/converter,will not fit. If it is the large hole, then a adapter bushing will be needed to use a 67 or earlier trans.
I would suggest milling the head to increase the compression ratio. Try for about 9.0-1 for a basically stock street engine. Don't forget you will need to buy a rocker setup. Used are plentifull. New is hard to find and not cheap.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Dave Crower from Crower cams made a nice custom grind cam for my ex's slant a few years ago when we had the engine rebuilt. It was 260° duration and .495" lift. She's happy with the way that her car runs. Stock slant with a 1 bbl and single exhaust.

So that means you gave your ex the shaft.