PLEASE HELP can any 1 identify this rear end

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winstoninwisc

winstoninwisc

Taint easy livin free,season ticket ona 1wayride
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its in an old lancer , 61- 62 gasser The #s are 1634985 the car had a 413 engine in it .its written like a gear ratio 3.31 has a sideways 5 by where an X would be on an X head and it measures 52 inches roughly inside to inside backing plates .other #s kind of look like this
3 m o P. 114
c it is on the ground so we do not know if it is a sure grip
please write me if you know for sure or just add opinions to this thread , the big nut is held on by a cotter key and it has no pawl , but it has a keyway holding it in . THANKS FABO FOR HELPING
 
Yeah pictures or I am moving on.
 
winstoninwisc said:
its in an old 1634985 car , 61- 62 gasser The #s are 413 .its written like a gear ratio 5 by where an X would be on an 3 m o P and it measures 52 inches roughly inside to backing plates inside .other #s kind of look like the big nut
3 m o P. 114 engine in it 3.31 has a sideways an X head
c it is on the ground so we do not know if it is a sure grip
please write me if you know for sure or just add opinions to this thread , the big nut is held on
Click to expand...

I believe it's a Diamond T but I'm not sure
 
Hi and thanks winstoninwisc for helping me get my feet wet.
I sent him cell phone pics but our timing has not been the best this weekend.

so here is what I have the dif # is 1634985, and instead of the casting having an "X" on it, there is a 5

the hub ends have a Castle nut that holds the drum on

I have pics of it all, So the big question is...do I do all the hammering that will be needed to get 1/4 key way out to get a look in side of the pig or is it a waste of time as it's an obsolete Axel assembly
 
Asp said:
Hi and thanks winstoninwisc for helping me get my feet wet.
I sent him cell phone pics but our timing has not been the best this weekend.

so here is what I have the dif # is 1634985, and instead of the casting having an "X" on it, there is a 5

the hub ends have a Castle nut that holds the drum on

I have pics of it all, So the big question is...do I do all the hammering that will be needed to get 1/4 key way out to get a look in side of the pig or is it a waste of time as it's an obsolete Axel assembly
Click to expand...
You do not have to remove the nuts off the axle hubs. Unbolt the axle to housing nuts and bolts and knock the axle/backing plate assem out.
 
OH...I can break it, I have mad skill's
so remove the backing plates while the drums are still on but remove the castle nut on the end of the axle shaft @ the break drum. First
 
You don't need to remove the castle nut if you can get the backing plate separated, and get the axle out that way. "It will all" come out hopefully

The thing you "need" to pull those tapered hubs looks something like this and is very expensive, unless you can borrow or build one

HP600.jpg


Another type

CopePuller.jpg


Look Mom!!! The red neck method LOL

HarrisHubPuller.jpg
 
OK, so that is the plan for next weekend remove the backing plates and if all else fails build a monster to pull the drums.

I need to figure out how to add pics
to show the motor

could be a fun poll

Does it have a steel crank in that old 413..or Not?
 
Well, it has been established that it is a pre-1965 8 3/4" rearend with a 985 (pre-742) center section! I would try an older established service station in your area for a puller! They may have one (I know mine does) and probably haven't used it in years and wouldn't mind loaning it out!
 
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