Points to Electronic conversion

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Fisher

Old Guy with a Cool car.
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Dropping 383 into 71 Duster. Want a basic Electronic ignition. Motor will make 450-500 hp I want an easy kit, will the one from mopar performance be enough?
 
yes the mopar performance kit is fine, or you could use your stock distributer with a pertronix set-up. I have both set-ups on two of my cars. I like them both.
 
yes the mopar performance kit is fine, or you could use your stock distributer with a pertronix set-up. I have both set-ups on two of my cars. I like them both.

The Pertronics ignitor 3 has a rev limiter built into it.
That and an ecoil would work really well together and less than $200 total.
 
Whats an ecoil? I have a spare Crane PS91 coil can i use that?

The crane coil you have will work great and is an ecoil design.
Ecoil referes to the design of the core and windings and are more powerful than a standard canister coil.
Also, your crane coil does not require a ballast resistor.

If I were you, I would get the ignitor 3 and use your Crane coil.
 
First, don't fool with the old Mopar ignition since it is expensive, an older design, and problematic. Two choices I recommend. I have been thinking of this for my 1965 383 that has a Crane XR700 on (old optical conversion kit).

1. A new "ready-to-run" HEI distributor is ~$80 on ebay. Just recently saw them for the RB engines. The small block ones ($45) have been out for several years and most like them. Don't look if you hate anything Chinese. Best to use an E-core coil instead of an old oil-filled cannister type. Many choices, including a Mopar Magnum, GM "external", Ford TFI, or many after-market. I bought Steve White's $20 coil at the same time as my r-t-r distributor.

2. Get a Mopar electronic distributor and have it trigger a GM 8-pin HEI module and coil. I did this on my slant, for ~$15 in junkyard parts (GM V-8 trucks 85-95 or cars to 93). Real simple connections and many posts here. Or buy new parts from ClassicHEI (TrailBeast above) for more $$.
 
This is no longer simple? i want a kit, or maybe just buy an old dual point and call it a day.
 
This is no longer simple? i want a kit, or maybe just buy an old dual point and call it a day.

The Pertronics 3 and your coil and distributor.
Simple as it gets and gives you HEI and rev limiter.
Total cost to you, 100 bucks.

My kits are about 100 bucks also, but you still need to get away from that points system in the distributor on top of everything else.

May be the "Ready to run" distributor, and your coil is the best for you then.
This is what Bill was talking about above, and it sounds like what you are needing.
This and your coil is all you would need and they are super easy to hook up.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Small-Block...Ready-Run-Distributor-w-Red-Cap-/271135875872
 
You want cheep? Hit the local pull-a-part, or salvage yard, grab a good looking dist from a 73-78 383 or 400 in a big car of some sort. Grab the harness, resistor, ECU box and all.You can buy the harness new from mopar, and I THINK it can be purchased in the NAPA "echlin" brand as well. If no luck on the dist, reman isnt bad price wise, NAPA, advance auto ect. Pick up a coil, ballast resistor, and a new ignition box while your there if you are worried about your salvage yard parts. I think it WILL cost more than the chinese set-ups, but the upside, is that it is a proven dependable set up, and parts are avalible at any parts store coast to coast. Some guys are using the GM module, which performs the same function as the mopar box, allthough it is considerably smaller. Also using the GM module and GM Ecoil deal, you can eliminate the ballest resitor as well. My only personal opinion about this, is the GM modules do seem quite fail-prone... And I PERSONALLY have had EXCELENT service out of the Mopar system.
 
I agree with you, you didn't say cheap, you said easy. The kit you are looking for is available at Summit part #P3690427, $225.95 or Mancini part #MRE-6993, $199.95. The one from Summit is MOPAR. The one from Mancini I believe has a different Distributon the rest of the parts are MOPAR. Instructions and harnesses with both plus the orange box and ballast.
 
News Flash...
*Don't use the E-Coil design with a Pertronix 3, they use a .32 OHM Coil, Check with Pertronix Tech Dept. before you potentially damage your module. Why would you think that your engine needs more than the PTX 3 can put out????
*The HRR688 Box is NOT a GM 4 pin, it's fully digital computerized circuit board with an Algorithm Positive stop REV Limiter and many other state of the art electronic features.
*P3690427... notice something missing?.. . How about a coil? Great Warranty=Zero, what you do get is a distributor that is a universal fit .. which means it fits nothing in the universe, however it does come with that fantastic 40 year old technology Orange box which retards the timing 8* under load, now thats a feature we all need.
* Try checking with the manufacturers on this technical data rather than getting 100 opinions on a webboard.
 
News Flash...
*Don't use the E-Coil design with a Pertronix 3, they use a .32 OHM Coil, Check with Pertronix Tech Dept. before you potentially damage your module. Why would you think that your engine needs more than the PTX 3 can put out????
*The HRR688 Box is NOT a GM 4 pin, it's fully digital computerized circuit board with an Algorithm Positive stop REV Limiter and many other state of the art electronic features.
*P3690427... notice something missing?.. . How about a coil? Great Warranty=Zero, what you do get is a distributor that is a universal fit .. which means it fits nothing in the universe, however it does come with that fantastic 40 year old technology Orange box which retards the timing 8* under load, now thats a feature we all need.
* Try checking with the manufacturers on this technical data rather than getting 100 opinions on a webboard.

Don, trailbeast says it will work,and he's the ignition guru.
Can't I just slap the crane on with a Pertronix,and go ?
 
One of the "recommended" coils for use with the Ignitor 3 is the flamethrower canister style with 0.32 ohm resistance.

Copied right off thier website,
"Flame Thrower III coils are an ultra low resistance (0.32-ohms) 45,000-volt coil"
 
You recommend a distributor made from chinkesium in one breath while in the next call MoPar's electronic ignition problematic? I won't argue the MoPar ignition hasn't room for improvement, but your comparison isn't a fair one.

To the OP, if you search for something in "kit" form as you say, you're going to end up paying a lot more. I think the Pertronix advice you've been given is good. I have friends with a soon to be 7 second dragster that run the Pertronix, so it is certainly up to the task. It will also retain the stock small distributor look, if that's of any consequence. That way, you will retain an ignition system that is completely made in USA......well, I don't know where that crane coil is made. I think you'll end up with better product with the Pertronix.


First, don't fool with the old Mopar ignition since it is expensive, an older design, and problematic. Two choices I recommend. I have been thinking of this for my 1965 383 that has a Crane XR700 on (old optical conversion kit).

1. A new "ready-to-run" HEI distributor is ~$80 on ebay. Just recently saw them for the RB engines. The small block ones ($45) have been out for several years and most like them. Don't look if you hate anything Chinese. Best to use an E-core coil instead of an old oil-filled cannister type. Many choices, including a Mopar Magnum, GM "external", Ford TFI, or many after-market. I bought Steve White's $20 coil at the same time as my r-t-r distributor.

2. Get a Mopar electronic distributor and have it trigger a GM 8-pin HEI module and coil. I did this on my slant, for ~$15 in junkyard parts (GM V-8 trucks 85-95 or cars to 93). Real simple connections and many posts here. Or buy new parts from ClassicHEI (TrailBeast above) for more $$.
 
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