Points to electronic

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valiant1966

valiant1966

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Can someone tell me when you need to use a 4 pole ballast resistor vs. a 2 pole one when installing a Mopar electronic ignition. I'm sure I can find the wiring diagram on here. We just need to know when to use which one.
I know the simple answer is get all the donor parts from the same car but that is not an option. Thanks, Dennis
 
Unless you feel the need to keep it Mopar,, get one of Trailbeast's HEI conversions,, and use the mopar electronic dist,. easy to wire in using existing wiring.. imho
 
I, too, use HEI, but I elected to use the older "4 terminal" HEI module. I just use a factory coil, and no ballast. The module must be mounted on a flat piece of metal (mine's just on the firewall below the wiper) with thermal compound, and MUST be grounded.

zu5qn8.jpg



The early Mopar boxes needed a 4 pin resistor, which in reality is two resistors "in the same box." One resistor of the two is basically the same as your old points resistor, the added one is to power the box

You cannot always tell by looking, but after the late boxes came out, they became known as "4 pin" and "5 pin" a boxes. However, many "4 pin" boxes still have 5 physical pins, it's simply that one is not connected.

So an early, 5 pin box MUST have a 4 pin resistor

A late, 4 pin box CAN use either a 2 or 4 pin box. It's just that the second resistor does not do anything at the box end

Wiring differences. The coil part of the resistor is always wired the same, and same as "points."

Older, 5 pin. Note that the top of the resistor is jumpered together, and the top right goes off to "ignition run." Note that the 4 pin box below, the left side of the resistor is left out, and that pin of the box is not connected. Also note the "upside down U" at the bottom of the drawing of the 4 pin resistor. This marking is "how you know" you have the resistors hooked up correctly. They are different values

Ignition_System_5pin.jpg


Ignition_System_4pin.jpg
 
I agree with both posts above. Any ignition which requires ballast resistors is old-fashioned electronics. It is confusing and tedious to wire a Mopar ignition into a points car, so why bother. It isn't even keeping your car original. The dual ballast version was the earliest, where the 2nd ballast (5 ohm) was to protect the ECU itself. Why people pay >$200 for the Mopar setup from Summit and others is a mystery, and some of those kits have the old 2 ballast setup. If anything but a slant, you can get a new HEI distributor for $45-$70 on ebay.
 
If your point distributor is in good shape you could also install a Pertronix kit.
 
I really like the HEI conversion, if you need a good electronic slant dizzy pm me.
I sell you a drop in unit cheap.
 
Okay. Okay. I'm a believer. Looks like HEI it is. Guess I go to the local pull and pay. Just gotta figure out what years I'm looking for.
I would love to get Trailbeast's setup since it looks so clean and simple but current funds won't allow for it. Thanks everyone for your input. Dennis
 
just go to the parts store and get a new module for $20+ if using a 4 pin like 67dart, for a mid 70's GM, say '77 Camaro w/350.

Borg Warner - CBE4P
Accel - 35361
Mallory - 607
 
This is the simplest way to do it, and you can use the HEI coil with this instead of the canister coil for the full power spark.
 

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Even simpler is the 8-pin HEI setup on 85-95 GM trucks and cars (93-). It uses the coil above with a factory cable to the HEI module, so just unplug. Snip the wires to the GM pickup and wire to a Mopar electronic distributor (50/50 chance, one polarity runs really bad). Those are the parts in TrailBeast's kit. Search for my recent posts w/ photos of the GM setup.

It is kind of fun snipping wires on a GM, feels like vandalism. If real hard-core, steal the knock sensor and module too, like I did for later fun.
 
the ballast resistor is there for the coil, keeps it from overheating, all coils except aftermarket (flame thrower) or HEI require ballast resistor

GM parts belong on a GM car; don't crossbreed
 
66plyValiant said:
GM parts belong on a GM car; don't crossbreed
Click to expand...

Get off this horseshit, mmmmmmmmmmmmkay?

Some of you think it's ok to use Accel, Mallory, MSD, Pertronix. Are any of those Mopar? No. That's right. They're not.

You can't buy an original Mopar box or ballast, anyhow, anymore.

So step the eff OFF
 
67Dart273 said:
Get off this horseshit, mmmmmmmmmmmmkay?

Some of you think it's ok to use Accel, Mallory, MSD, Pertronix. Are any of those Mopar? No. That's right. They're not.

You can't buy an original Mopar box or ballast, anyhow, anymore.

So step the eff OFF
Click to expand...


I don't use accel mallory or msd or pertronix, I use napa brand ECU for $22 and don't have to go to a salvage yard, or pay hundreds for an aftermarket system

if chev electronics are so good how come they have so much electrical issues? famous for non working power windows, and shorts galory

if everybody loves chevs buy one
 
Tell ya what. When Mopar starts making and selling good quality genuine boxes "again" I might buy one.
 
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