ported my 318 heads

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lilredridinghoo

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just to come around to show the FABO gearheads the result of several hours spended to port and polish my 318 heads.

due to the reason, that swirl-port, or magnum heads are not so easy and cheap to find in Germany (no way to find them on junkyards...)
i decided (together with a good friend and helping mind of me - he is an graduated engineer (espec. aerodynamic properties) ) to stay with a pair of stock 318 heads out of 1969
the pics are not really the best, but i guess the show a little of what was done.

the first 2 pics show how i tried to get the valve guide boss smooth and narrow.
also i grinded the walls of the bowl and tried to get a smooth surface and eliminate the ridges, i have taken about 0.05 to 0.07 at the walls and about 0.08 to 0.1 at the bowl left an right side of the boss down to the runner. The runners are opend up to match a RPM-performer intake, and smoothed out as far as i dared to deburr on the pushrod holes. Actually the runner ended up being about 0.08 to 0.1 larger measured between the side wall and the wall of the pushrod hole. From top to bottom i could achieve 0.16 to 0.18

also a point was to eliminate the "air flow break-away edge" on the short runnerside of the bowl to create a better and faster transition

due to the fact - that we decided to stay with the smaller valves, we didn´t take so much material from the bowl itself, just to make sure the bowl wouldn´t get to big compared to the flow-capacity of the valves.

conc. the exhaust side we only made a little bit of polishing to smooth out all the surfaced and making the runners only 0.1 wider

hope you enjoy - what you can see - awaiting your comments

and please dont be so "harsh" when you judge my work - these are the first heads i have done :yawinkle:

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It is great that you decided to port them yourself! The 318 responds very well to this kind of work. I too ported a set of "302" casting heads that I got for free and with no prior experience the 318 responded with at least 330 horsepower, maybe more.
 
cool! Good job so far. Definitely stay away from going nuts and hoggin them right out.Keep the porting tool constantly in motion,knock down high spots gradually and dont use high pressure on that grinder! Let it do all the work and take your time!
 
No mention of matching the ports. If nothing else use the gaskets you plan on installing and place em with the bolts stabbed and take out the gasket to the ports on one side, then place em on the intake. Compare the two against each other. Many times the port from the intake to the head are not the same nor is the gasket. Check it out and use a good steady hand.
Small Block
 
cool man.

Maybe these pics [work in progress] can help to guide you along the way-675 318 heads
you'll notice there is a lot you can remove from the pinch as well *** the exh roof kink.

Try to work the int bowl more.jmo

have fun, good luck!
 

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@smallblock, you´re right, and i forgot to write that i´ve done the job that way, put the gasket on the intake and also on the head and took my marker... but thanks for beeing interested in my work

@1wild&crazyguy, thanx for your pics, i see there is much work left for me to do... you´re bowls looking somewhat professional in the pics.

so i will spend some more hours on my working bench:toothy10:
 
Let me stress the importac of a full face shield. I was doing some work last weekend and the carbide burr got hung up between the intake valve guide and the wall, bucked the grinder and the freakin carbide tip zipped past my ear. Looks like the thing was brazed on as there was a little gold colored solder at the end of my shaft. I bought another one but will stay clear of that area, will use my slender teardrop shaped one for that. Also keep the throat right behind the valve seat 90% of the valve size to keep the velocity up and work to smooth the path out, not necessarily enlarge it. Going crazy will make the ports lazy.
 
looks good! If you get real confident with that carbide, then try to blend the ridge in the chamber around the intake valve. It wont take much cc's away but is worth some flow. Only the intake is necessary. Caution though as one slip with the burr and you can screw up the valve seat. Not for the faint of heart though.
Two thumbs up though for the effort. Hmmm, come to think of it, I got a couple set of
"teener" heads. Maybe I'll try some carvin' myself.
I need to save of for that computer interface that connects to a flow fixture and the power comes from a shop vac of at least 5 hp. There are shop vac nowdays with 6.5 hp.
supposed to be 98% accurate ive been told. they sell you a kit with the interface and the table and the head fixture, you supply the computer and the shop vac. For way less than a superflow. Great for the home head porter.
 
Looking good man. I'm getting ready to attempt a set of big block heads.
 
I would suggest polishing the combustion chamber surfaces as well. At a minimum knock off the little ridge around the valve seats and radius the edge of the chambers where they meet the deck surface. Any sharp edges will tend to become hot spots and cause detonation. A smooth chamber surface wont carbon up as bad, which also helps prevent detonation.
 
Looking good so far, its a great feeling to port your own heads isnt it? I think if you just take some time smoothing it all out a bit you"ll have some nice flow. Heres a few pictures of my first head porting, did a little reserch, got the tools and spent countless hours tooling away, this was a set of 440 heads and I used the Mopar templetes to get the right bowl size without hitting water. Keep up the good work!!!

Butch
 

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Have you flowed'em yet?

It's always nice to know what you really have in the end.

unfort. not - at the time i couldn´t find a shop(or what ever) which have a flowbench...

anyway, after looking at the other pics of members doing port-work, i decided to rework mine a little (a little more polish, a little bit more grinding and smoothing the runners )
 
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