Beatnik
Well-Known Member
:cheers:
Power Brake Hell..... HELP!!!
- Thread starter mrdodge69
- Start date
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pettybludart
Well-Known Member
Have you replaced any of your flex lines(front and rear)recently?They tend to look fine on the outside,but swell inside.Just a thought...see ya soon.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
I say you are going down the wrong road, here. A booster CANNOT POSSIBLY affect front/ rear proportioning.
You may have MULTIPLE problems.
Here's the thing. SURELY you've driven "other cars" with power brakes. You should know what to expect "what pedal feel" you will get. Are you saying this car is much more spongy?
Does it easily lock up with little pedal pressure? Normally, if you have a good booster, no air, and some problem "in one end" of the system, the two wheels that are working should easily lock
I'm not saying DON'T ditch the booster, you may well prefer manual. But I'd bet that if you do, it still won't stop.
You may have MULTIPLE problems.
Here's the thing. SURELY you've driven "other cars" with power brakes. You should know what to expect "what pedal feel" you will get. Are you saying this car is much more spongy?
Does it easily lock up with little pedal pressure? Normally, if you have a good booster, no air, and some problem "in one end" of the system, the two wheels that are working should easily lock
I'm not saying DON'T ditch the booster, you may well prefer manual. But I'd bet that if you do, it still won't stop.
67DARTGTCONV
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 26, 2004
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I installed a completely chrome Power Brake assemble on my 67 With drum brakes.
I notice that I had to reverse the lines at the new master cylinder . I selected the wrong push lever and the pedal sat way to high, and changed out to a shorter one.
System works great even for drum brakes. It is either the prop valve or u may have the lines reversed at the master. it can't be the booster it self.
I notice that I had to reverse the lines at the new master cylinder . I selected the wrong push lever and the pedal sat way to high, and changed out to a shorter one.
System works great even for drum brakes. It is either the prop valve or u may have the lines reversed at the master. it can't be the booster it self.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
When 67Dart273 speaks, you need to listen. Ditto for 67DARTGTCONV (1967 was a good year). It can't be the booster! There is a single rod from the booster that pushes the MC pistons. You get pressure to the rear tube, so the MC piston is moving.
As mentioned many times, you probably have air in the system. You still didn't explain how you bled the MC. You also didn't verify that the caliper bleeds are at the top. Just saying "no air" doesn't convince us. If not air, then probably a problem with the "combination block". You didn't specify what you have, other than "adjustable prop valve". If you have what I think, the block has a "metering valve" on the front circuit, whose purpose is to hold off front actuation until the rear shoes contact. That could be blocking the flow if defective. However, not sure how you would have bled the fronts then.
Re pedal height, first check if you have an adjustment on the rod out of the booster as some have. If not, you will need a longer rod from booster to pedal.
As mentioned many times, you probably have air in the system. You still didn't explain how you bled the MC. You also didn't verify that the caliper bleeds are at the top. Just saying "no air" doesn't convince us. If not air, then probably a problem with the "combination block". You didn't specify what you have, other than "adjustable prop valve". If you have what I think, the block has a "metering valve" on the front circuit, whose purpose is to hold off front actuation until the rear shoes contact. That could be blocking the flow if defective. However, not sure how you would have bled the fronts then.
Re pedal height, first check if you have an adjustment on the rod out of the booster as some have. If not, you will need a longer rod from booster to pedal.
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