That looks kinda like my setup. Mine may be slightly larger in diameter. Good picture though. Would you mind giving me the diameter of your booster. I agree,the 440 would be a cheaper build,especially for a daily driver/hotrod. With 276 gears and a thermoquad,proly get decent mpg?
Power brakes??
- Thread starter cuda620
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It works really well! I'm in the process of repairing my rear frame rails and installing an 8 3/4 right now. If I drive it easily it's no worse on gas than the 318 was! Passes pretty strong on the highway too. I'll try to get a measurement tomorrow.
I have a '72 Duster with a 440 & original PB setup (Midland/Ross booster),it clears the valve cover but the pcv valve is pretty close. I'm using Schumacher conversion mounts & their torque strap.I'll try to post a photo later.
And engine torques up on the drivers side. That is where I was at with clearance.
I'll get some calipers out and measure my booster. It's OEM 76 Valient. Still has the Mopar/Chrysler tags on it. I've really been kinda disappointed in what I'm wanting to do. Trying to do this swap as easily as possible without changing the car so someday IF i'm too old to use it,I can sell it with all the stock stuff as well. It a loaded up A body,rust free with 69k miles all original.Like anew 76. I want to daily drive it 6-8 months a year. My last one was my 68 cuda/440,,,30 years ago. Guess it's hard to go back in time. LOL.. Are the earlier valve covers different with more clearance? You say your mileage,with your 440/2:76 gears is about the same as your 318 was? How bad is it outta the hole during those "occassional" street runs? BTW, GREAT info guys!
Jim Lusk
Well-Known Member
That booster is bigger than the '67. I've got a core buried in my parts pile.
kerryike
Active Member
I believe you are correct. I considered using power brakes years ago when I had an RB in my Barracuda. This is what I had (and still have upstairs in my garage). I never used it, but if I remember correctly, there was plenty of clearance.
I can't really launch it. It just smokes the one tire! Then I get scared I'm gonna blow my 7 1/4 diff. It goes pretty good for what it is. Once I get the 8 3/4 in I'm gonna take it to the strip and see what it does. I think if can get traction it will launch pretty good. Time will tell I guess...
The '69 & older covers have the pcv on the passenger side.I think that is the way I'll end up going. There is plenty of room for the booster itself,it's just that the pcv is close. And if you try to use the the later ('75ish & up) taller covers,they definitely won't clear.
Jim,will the '67 booster bolt up to the later cars brackets?
I can take a photo tomorrow of my 74 Duster for you to see how a 400 fits (Yes, it's the engine you want the block from) with power brakes and Direct Connect
chrome valve covers still in the car. There is no clearance at all on mine with the factory brake booster and the taller valve covers (Maybe a.040" feeler gage
might fit) or maybe .035" I am removing all the power brake system from the firewall and buying a 3/4" offset firewall bracket adapter from Mancini Racing
http://www.manciniracing.com/ofadforlamom2.html and using a 2-bolt aluminum/ plastic tank master cylinder since I am installing a 440.
I have a friend that built a 74 Duster with 540" RB Duster and has a homemade version of this bracket. The guy he sold it to runs it at Muncie Dragway
all the time. (Your real close) Even with manual brakes and using big tube headers you still need to move it over from the stock location to make life
easier with the RB in it. I believe I have seen a 4 hole to 4 hole offset bracket that would allow you to move the entire booster bracket over like I am
doing with the Mancini bracket. You could make your own firewall adapter fairly easy and then move the pushrod to the other side of the pedal like they
show doing it on the bracket I bought.
Tom
chrome valve covers still in the car. There is no clearance at all on mine with the factory brake booster and the taller valve covers (Maybe a.040" feeler gage
might fit) or maybe .035" I am removing all the power brake system from the firewall and buying a 3/4" offset firewall bracket adapter from Mancini Racing
http://www.manciniracing.com/ofadforlamom2.html and using a 2-bolt aluminum/ plastic tank master cylinder since I am installing a 440.
I have a friend that built a 74 Duster with 540" RB Duster and has a homemade version of this bracket. The guy he sold it to runs it at Muncie Dragway
all the time. (Your real close) Even with manual brakes and using big tube headers you still need to move it over from the stock location to make life
easier with the RB in it. I believe I have seen a 4 hole to 4 hole offset bracket that would allow you to move the entire booster bracket over like I am
doing with the Mancini bracket. You could make your own firewall adapter fairly easy and then move the pushrod to the other side of the pedal like they
show doing it on the bracket I bought.
Tom
440dartsport
Well-Known Member
I put the TH400 in the car last week. It did not fit the stock crossmember so I cut it out and just built a tubular cross member. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Prostock Tom,Yea,I been considering a 400/451 build. I have an early block. I have a 440 crank and rods. I'd have a shop just turn mine down to the 7.25 radius, clearance the block ad buy some pistons. I think the factory forged crank is better than the chinese cranks,,,source and such. I can polish the rods,find a shop that still shot peens etc,add arp waveloc bolts. 440's cheaper but 400/451 fits better with my options. Not gonna get too carried away with the build. Just don't want an LS engine steppin on my car.
All you need is a friend with a lathe to turn the counterweights. Do not forget the chamfer
(bevel) the counter weight edges to clear the block near the main webbing. I am sure you
can find an article that shows how it's one. I have turned the counter weights down on
several dozen cranks. Not hard to do at all.
Tom
hangn0ut
Well-Known Member
All you guys still got another easy 1/2" of clearance to be had. Space the k member down. Cheap and easy. Took me about 45 minutes and I work slow.
Tom,where in west central Indiana are you. I may just bring you my crank and pay you to machine it. I have a crank grinder in muncie that could do the journals,but not too certain about the weights. Rather pay someone that knows how.
440dartsport
Well-Known Member
I don't run torsion bars so I just made a tubular crossmember and trans mount that ties the frame rails back together.
Terre Haute
I might have a friend in Indy that already has a crank done like your wanting.
FYI: Looks like it's going to be a few weeks before I get the 400 pulled out.
Tom
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