Pre Fab Exhaust

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stop the beast

stop the beast

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Are there any other good options for a prefabricated manifold back exhaust for the early a body other than TTI? Dual of course.
 
I just bought a set for my 67 GT from Summit Racing for $209. They are from headers back and look really good, all mandrel bent with all brackets and mufflers out the back. Wouldn't hurt to check with them to see if they have your model. Can't beat price for quality. Joe
 
red67gts said:
I just bought a set for my 67 GT from Summit Racing for $209. They are from headers back and look really good, all mandrel bent with all brackets and mufflers out the back. Wouldn't hurt to check with them to see if they have your model. Can't beat price for quality. Joe
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Summit and Jegs only make kits for '67 amd up a bodies. I'm not sure the difference but they must be pretty close to the '66.
 
Its because of the passenger 'squeeze' between the tank and the leaf spring. In general 2"-2.25" is the biggest you can go without 'really' trying to work around them. Id suggest going with a large single for a street car but the only prefab is from accurate and is stock 2.5" and 2.25" high-perf stuff.

You might try buying the summit, jegs, or heartthrob kit and have the local muffler shop make a pair of headpipes and rework the tailpipes a bit.

OR, Ive heard good things about these guys...
http://kepichexhaust.com/items/comp...in-aluminized-steel-cryes51-74dlal-detail.htm
 
You can get a stock style exhaust from Year one. In my case, I just went to an exhaust shop and had a custom 2.25 inch dual fabbed up. I think the Dakota manifolds I got may have contributed to the weirdness right at the start.
 
In my experience, it is best to stay away... no, run, run far away from pre-fabbed exhaust setups. I bought a TTI kit for my C-body and it was so bad that the head pipes nearly hit the ground and TTI didn't do anything to help. I took it to a shop and gained a good 3 inches of ground clearance. Although my car is fairly low already, there's no excuse for being able to get my fist between the pipes and the torsion bars.

I wish I would have spent the money at a good custom exhaust shop instead. It would have come out cleaner and better the first time. The exhaust is still not right because I hate having to spend more money and time on it. The rear hangers did not position the pipes over the axle properly and without a spacer, they hit the body and rattle and it's annoying as hell. I've only got one side spaced out with parts I made myself.

My other experience was with a GM car through "Pypes Exhaust." It was so far off that the kit was mostly chopped into pieces and used for the mandrel bends to build what is now a beautiful exhaust system but again it cost $500 over the cost of buying the kit in the first place.

Do it right the first time: take it to a GOOD shop. If you think spending $800 or whatever on a TTI is expensive, just think about having to have it redone at a shop. Spend $800 at the shop and help out a local guy. He also has more to lose if he messes up the job.

Have the guy who is going to work on your car show you what he's going to do while the car is on the lift. I had a guy once tell me he had to do a miter cut to get pipes from my headers through the crossmember (see pic- this is the modified "Pypes" kit). The shop I took my car to next thought that guy must have been an idiot. I concur.

If you find the right guy, he'll love working on classic iron and do a good job. Don't forget: cash talks.

P1010030.jpg
 
personaly, for my street cars, I go out and buy good used stuff off craigslist, cut it up, and reweld it.....I only go to a shop if I need some flanges or something swedged.....I for the most part build my own mufflers as well. The exhaust on my Wagon is made from the good, original headpipes and the old replacement exhaust off of a 90's chev truck (only used for a few months) and the muffler is built out of the back of an old steel cabnet that was backed into.....I think Im into everything $20-25 and an afternoon.
 
CUDAGUY said:
personaly, for my street cars, I go out and buy good used stuff off craigslist, cut it up, and reweld it.....I only go to a shop if I need some flanges or something swedged.....I for the most part build my own mufflers as well. The exhaust on my Wagon is made from the good, original headpipes and the old replacement exhaust off of a 90's chev truck (only used for a few months) and the muffler is built out of the back of an old steel cabnet that was backed into.....I think Im into everything $20-25 and an afternoon.
Click to expand...

Good work. I'll probably end up having it built at a friend's shop. Though, I don't think I'm going to source enough 2.5" material for $20-$25; but I'm never surprised at the nice things I find on craigslist or the at the scrappers.
 
I bought a "Kit" through Jegs for a '67 car and adapted it to my '65. I was not impressed by the "Kit" and would not have been impressed if I was using it on a '67-up car. Fitting everything on the right side was "tight" at best especially the transition from the Spitfires past the transmission and torsion bar. This "Kit" was a 2 1/2" system and wound up bing a total cut and paste deal.....twice. Second time was to fix the rattles and weld the whole thing together. If you are running a mild engine I would go with a 2 1/4" system just for ease of fitment, I kind of wish I had done that myself.
Bob
 
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