Primered car, needs fixing, and then what.

-
A

Andre68

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2013
Messages
572
Reaction score
5
Location
San Diego
Well I primered my Dart about 3 weeks ago. Seeing it was my first full paint job, of course it came out like crap. Im half blaming the harbor freight hvlp gun that I bought, that thing could pray a straight stream of paint! It would like spit. So there some runs here and there, and alot of what I believe is called "dry spray"? Some of the car is glossy smooth and then some of it has random texture of roughness.

I got some scratches that I take it were there before I sprayed I just didnt notice them.

Then I have an issue on certain spots where I was taking the car down to bare metal for 1 reason or another, and the smoothed the original paint down to 220 grit. Thinking it was a good surface to paint over. I painted over it and now you can see where there was bare metal meeting some of the original paint.

I have attached photos, and an example of what I mean by the metal and original paint meeting.

I would like to know how to fix these issues and then on whats next to get this body ready to lay down my Single Stage Urethane grey.

Also I got some runs and I must have hit dirt somewhere (painted it in my garage), because I got some specs of like dirt or dust on some parts of the car.

Also, I don't plan on using the harbor freight gun again, It didnt work for me. has anyone here used or tried the devilbliss starting line gun or finishline?
 
here are the photos
 

Attachments

  • dryspray1.jpg
    61.3 KB · Views: 369
  • dryspray2.jpg
    86 KB · Views: 378
  • dryspray3.jpg
    43.7 KB · Views: 370
  • bumpsandscratches.jpg
    51 KB · Views: 374
  • blenfing.jpg
    92.2 KB · Views: 414
  • runs.jpg
    43.7 KB · Views: 373
  • dirt specs.jpg
    61.9 KB · Views: 420
Use a Sata hvlp high volume low pressure they are not cheap but one of the best.
 
Looks like you needed more prep. What type of ventilation did you use? One of the things we don't do is plastic on the floor. We clean the floor as good as we can and then water it down to keep the dust down.
 
Your paint is never going to be any better than the prep work. When you think you are done sand for about two more days.

As for the HF gun, I have painted three cars with them, the first I had results similar to yours. Then I read the instructions and spent a lot more time sanding for the next one. Much better results. I would not throw money at better equipment until I got what I thought was the best possible result with what I have.

Practice on scrap or something, practice makes perfect.

This was my third paint job. Pic was taken about 6 months later after the car got driven over one of those rocks on the edge of the drive behind the car.
 

Attachments

  • 64valiant.jpg
    65.4 KB · Views: 348
Practice, practice, pracitce. paint a bunch of cardboard to get a feel for the sprayguns pattern and adjustments. Make sure your paint is thinned properly. then more practice.
 
I would block sand the whole car.Then spray with a good fill primer.Block it again and spray the fill primer again.Just keep sparying and blocking until it looks good.Do not make the spray pattern on your gun too wide.Move the gun slower when spraying and overlap your primer patterns .Better to have the primer a little too wet than too dry.
 
Little specks may be silicon contamination. Do they look like tiny little craters? Usually
Caused by contaminated surface not properly cleaned and degreased before coating.
Culprits can be greasy fingers, oil, anti freeze, wd40 or worst one of all Armorall.
Also contaminated air lines can drive you nuts.
Commonly referred to as silicon contamination and preventable only by careful surface prep and using a good precleaner and wiping dry with CLEAN rag or wipe and changingoften. Don't use one drying wipe for the whole area.
This problem can drive a painter to distraction till you find the culprit.
 
I think you don't have the gun set up right
you have to mix your primer/reducer 50/50 and strain it before going in the feed
your prep work looks pretty bad
clean clean clean everything first
wet the floor down
get you a filter
practice your spray pattern and technic on something flat
there are a ton of videos on you tube that will help you
stopping and starting in the middle of a panel is going to do that if you don't have your set up right and you aren't spraying consistantly
 
Yup, way more prep. And more practice.

I have a HF gun as well. Not the greatest, but you can get them to work pretty decent, especially for primer. The gun has adjustment screws that you can use to change the amount of paint your spraying. The key is to get the amount of paint you're putting down to match the speed at which you like to move when you paint. I shoot with the gun "wide open", ie, as much paint and air as it will spray, because I like to move pretty fast when I paint. Play with the adjuster screws until you're putting down a nice "wet" coat of paint at the speed you're moving. Looks like you put down a very "dry" coat, so you were moving too fast for the amount of paint you were spraying.

Also, "spitting" is often caused by water in the lines. If you don't have a water separator on your air line, that could be the problem. Even if you have one, but not a good one, you can still get water vapor in the air you're using, and that will definitely cause you headaches when you spray.
 
What kind of air compressor do you have? Will it keep up with your paint gun? If the cfm drops, meaning the compressor is running constantly to keep up, the compressor will get hot putting water into the line. No separator will ever eliminate it.
 
Louie70Dart said:
What kind of air compressor do you have? Will it keep up with your paint gun? If the cfm drops, meaning the compressor is running constantly to keep up, the compressor will get hot putting water into the line. No separator will ever eliminate it.
Click to expand...
He should be running a max of 40 psi with that sprayer, just about any compressor should be able to keep up with that.
 
You need way more filling and blocking.

You need to mix to the ratio listed on the tech sheet for the product.

You need to clean, adjust and have your gun at the correct pressure.

You need to control your hand speed when shooting and use the correct overlap.

You need to have surfaces clean.

You need to apply your product over the recommended surface finish (did the tech sheet say to apply the product over a 220 scratch?)

You need a water filter on your air system.


You don't need a good gun to shoot primer. Hell, you can apply your primer with a foam roller if you want, it's going to be sanded anyway.


You have a long way to go before that's ready for paint. Remember, any defects you can see in the primer will look 100 times worse once you put a shine on it.

I would recommend White if this is your first paint job.
 
Andre68 said:
Well I primered my Dart about 3 weeks ago. Seeing it was my first full paint job, of course it came out like crap. Im half blaming the harbor freight hvlp gun that I bought, that thing could pray a straight stream of paint! It would like spit. So there some runs here and there, and alot of what I believe is called "dry spray"? Some of the car is glossy smooth and then some of it has random texture of roughness.

I got some scratches that I take it were there before I sprayed I just didnt notice them.

Then I have an issue on certain spots where I was taking the car down to bare metal for 1 reason or another, and the smoothed the original paint down to 220 grit. Thinking it was a good surface to paint over. I painted over it and now you can see where there was bare metal meeting some of the original paint.

I have attached photos, and an example of what I mean by the metal and original paint meeting.

I would like to know how to fix these issues and then on whats next to get this body ready to lay down my Single Stage Urethane grey.

Also I got some runs and I must have hit dirt somewhere (painted it in my garage), because I got some specs of like dirt or dust on some parts of the car.

Also, I don't plan on using the harbor freight gun again, It didnt work for me. has anyone here used or tried the devilbliss starting line gun or finishline?
Click to expand...

Don't Blame the gun for your inability to spray it. Maybe you should have checked the needle size if you did not. We used it perfectly fine.
 
73AbodEE said:
I think you don't have the gun set up right
you have to mix your primer/reducer 50/50 and strain it before going in the feed
your prep work looks pretty bad
clean clean clean everything first
wet the floor down
get you a filter
practice your spray pattern and technic on something flat
there are a ton of videos on you tube that will help you
stopping and starting in the middle of a panel is going to do that if you don't have your set up right and you aren't spraying consistantly
Click to expand...


This! The gun needs to be set up correctly to avoid dry spraying the car in areas
 
I used the harbor freight gun for primer and paint. Mixed per the instructions, used a scrap piece of metal to test the gun, came out like glass, BUT it looked like glass before I put down the paint. Don't use cardboard or wood for your spray pattern and testing, that stuff will hold paint better than a primed surface.
Body work ( metal work and filler ), Sand, Primer, sand, primer, sand, clean, paint..I think it had 3 primer steps, but I can't remember exactly. I think I finished up with 800 grit but again, memory is a little foggy.
During the final wet sand ( when it has a bit of water on it ) you'll see exactly what the car will look like when it's painted.
 

Attachments

  • IMG00250 (Small).jpg
    74.4 KB · Views: 206
..oh, and from the pic you'll notice that I didn't line up the doors - fenders while doing the body work. This time around I'm doing that. Not a huge thing on an old car if it's not done, but gives the car a great "done right" feel when it is.
 
For high build primer 2.0 fluid tip is about the right size. By the sound of it
your fluid tip is too small. The reason you see the spots you sanded to the bare metal is because they are low spots. Before you start blocking I would put a couple of
coats over the low areas making sure to let it flash between coats
 
what is your cfm @ 40 psi, hvlp guns require more cfm than pressure.
 
Not sure cfm, I know I have a 60 gall kobalt air compressor that I bought specific for painting. I think it's something like 13.5

What grit paper do I use to block sand?
 
68383GTS said:
I would block sand the whole car.Then spray with a good fill primer.Block it again and spray the fill primer again.Just keep sparying and blocking until it looks good.Do not make the spray pattern on your gun too wide.Move the gun slower when spraying and overlap your primer patterns .Better to have the primer a little too wet than too dry.
Click to expand...


this ^^^


http://www.eastwood.com/paints/primers.html

they even have movies about stuff on their site lol
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top