Problem using the ignition key!

[65dartcharger]

I'm doing a restoration on a 1964 Dart GT convertible.

Right now I'm in the position of starting it. If I use a screwdriver on the starter relay there is no problems getting it running. But if I use the key nothing happens.

1. I have tried the neutral swith but it's working.
2. I have change the start relay but no luck.
3. The yellow cable that goes from the ignition switch to the starter relay lights when put it in start mode on the ignitio swithch.

I just ran out of ideas but I know the FABO community can have a bunch of better ideas.

Thanks in advance

Ulf

 

[MadScientistMat]

Get a volt meter and follow the signal. Does the starter relay get 12 volts from the ignition switch? Does it send 12 volts to the starter?

 

[Dana67Dart]

If you use a screwdriver between the battery post and the solenoid post on the relay you are bypassing the ignition switch except for power to the ballast from IGN 1

But if I use the key nothing happens.

Define nothing happens.

No cranking?
Cranking but no firing.

1. Get a proper remote start switch.
2. Remove the yellow wire from the relay
3. Put one end of the remote start switch on batt positive and the other on the post on the starter relay where the yellow wire goes
4. Press the button
5. If it cranks, the relay and neutral safety switch are in working order.

Next

There are 3 terminals associated with the starting and running of our cars.

1. IGN 1 = Run = power to the ballast resister (and perhaps other non ignition accessories)
2. IGN 2 = Start = power to bypass the ballast resister during cranking only, IGN 1 has no power while the key is in start position
3. RUN = Crank = power to the yellow wire on the starter relay. The power is separate from IGN 2.

All 3 have to be functioning to start from the key

1. with key in run position
2. Use the remote starter switch hooked up as above
3. Push the remote start button
4. if the engine starts, the run circuit and the relay are in working order

you tested the yellow with a test light at the starter relay (if its incandescent it might be meaningful, if its LED it is meaningless)

you will need to test the voltage at the coil positive.

1. key off, Battery negative to coil positive should read 0 V
2. Key in run, Battery negative to coil positive should read less than battery voltage
3. Key in start (disconnect the yellow wire from the starter relay), Battery negative to coil positive should read close to battery voltage

 

[cudamark]

1. I have tried the neutral swith but it's working.
2. I have change the start relay but no luck.
3. The yellow cable that goes from the ignition switch to the starter relay lights when put it in start mode on the ignitio swithch.

I just ran out of ideas but I know the FABO community can have a bunch of better ideas.

Thanks in advance

Ulf

#3. Just using a test light? Try using a voltmeter to see exactly how much voltage is actually getting to the relay.

 

[azaustin]

All good stuff. I recommend a Snap-On MT302 remote start switch if you can find one. Mine is 40 years old and still works like a champ. And it won’t put arc burns on your relay or starter terminals.

 

[Dana67Dart]

just remember for diagnosing do not use the battery to solenoid posts to determine if the car will start. AND most remote start switches are not rated for full starter load. They are an ignition switch replacement NOT a starter relay replacement

 

[Kenneth Kraft]

I'm doing a restoration on a 1964 Dart GT convertible.

Right now I'm in the position of starting it. If I use a screwdriver on the starter relay there is no problems getting it running. But if I use the key nothing happens.

1. I have tried the neutral swith but it's working.
2. I have change the start relay but no luck.
3. The yellow cable that goes from the ignition switch to the starter relay lights when put it in start mode on the ignitio swithch.

I just ran out of ideas but I know the FABO community can have a bunch of better ideas.

Thanks in advance

Ulf

I believe you have an open circuit between your ignition switch and the "ignition terminal" on your starter relay. Are you getting power from it to your "ignition terminal" on your starter relay?
Temporarily take your attention off of the yellow wire and focus on the smaller black wire with a yellow tracer (S2 on your wiring diagram). That black and yellow wire provides the signal to close your starter relay contacts. It must light your test light when you turn the key to "crank" position.
That wire runs through your main bulkhead connector on your firewall. The S2 wire mentioned earlier runs through the center section of that bulkhead. It is designated "P" if you have the wiring diagram. It's common for the bulkhead connectors to have green corrosion and a bad connection due to age. Loosen the center bolt, pull the bulkhead apart, and clean all of those connections while your are at it. God speed.

 

[Dana67Dart]

are we looking at the same wiring diagrams?

Temporarily take your attention off of the yellow wire and focus on the smaller black wire with a yellow tracer (S2 on your wiring diagram). That black and yellow wire provides the signal to close your starter relay contacts. It must light your test light when you turn the key to "crank" position.
That wire runs through your main bulkhead connector on your firewall. The S2 wire mentioned earlier runs through the center section of that bulkhead. It is designated "P" if you have the wiring diagram. It's common for the bulkhead connectors to have green corrosion and a bad connection due to age. Loosen the center bolt, pull the bulkhead apart, and clean all of those connections while your are at it. God speed.

In the 64 FSM S-2 is called out as yellow and bulkhead C

 

[Kenneth Kraft]

Big "oops," you are right S2 is yellow on your diagram. I have a 65-66 OEM certified copy of the manual...which of course is not correct for a '64. I wrongly figured that the 64 would still have the same wiring as the 65 and 66...and you know what they say about "a.s.s.u.m.e." I am not fantastic at electrical wiring anyway. I'm really sorry I got it wrong. Thanks much for the kind correction.

 

[Dana67Dart]

Big "oops," you are right S2 is yellow on your diagram.

No worries, we all do it!

I could have just as easily been wrong. In 64 it was yellow and location C, in 65-65 it was black with yellow trace in location C, and in 67 it went back to yellow but in location L

Must have had a new engineer in 65-66