ProComp/Speedmaster aluminum heads

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I would have said the top one for the SM on the first two pic,OK OK before Jpar gets all fired up lets just say the" finish" aka "look" much better on the lower one on the first two pic's:thumbsup::lol:
 
Used them on a set of Eddy heads for two years...running a hughes 230/236 hydraulic cam.....I believe I was using 1.6 rockers...I will have to look in the shop tomorrow...

Now ...you might need to take a look how big a retainer you are using....pretty sure the Eddy are 1.46 spring....

the PRW are shinier and the bushing is a different color then the SM...going to use them again on a stroked 318 i am putting together.....

just ordered a Howards cam for it.....it will be a month or so to get the cam......

I got the SM during one of their Black Friday sales a coupe of years ago...actually got a set of 1.6 and 1.5.....

It is your money so .....just wanted to point out they look very similar....probably prw during days and sm on the grave yard shift...lol
 
Is the speedmaster sale usually site wide on everything or just the heads? Even before the sale price, it looks like I can buy bare heads, the ideal springs for the cam I’ll be running, valves AND rocker arms and head studs for less many than the assembled SM heads. I don’t have valve seals or retainers/locks in that price but by buying all my own stuff, I’m currently about $130 cheaper than assembled heads. Now if everything goes on 30% off sale, ding ding!
 
75slant6 said:
Then again, after reading what @PRH discovered in post #138 and the next several posts in this thread 35% off SpeedMaster I may have to skip the speedmaster rockers and spend a little more and get something of better quality/design.
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To follow up on Tony's post. There are three kits available from SM. The two you linked with the aluminum hold downs. I have a set of the 1.6 version and they're everything you'd want to be worried about. No bronze bushings, straight on the SS, chips in all the parts, stuck adjusters, oil holes in adjusters drilled off center. In other words, junk. I used them for mockup work to see about pushrod clearance on a 1.6 vs 1.5 rocker.

On the other hand, the ones that I run now, and the ones Tony linked, come with steel hold downs, and as best I can tell are the exact same rocker set that you get from PRW, minus shims (which you'll need). I disassembled my whole set, didn't find any defects, just some grit that needed to be cleaned out.

Mopar Chrysler SB 318 340 360 1.5 Stainless Steel Roller Rocker Arms W/ Hardware
 
70aarcuda said:
Tell me which one is a speedmaster and which one is a PRW......

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My PRW 1.6 rockers hit the retainer on my ProMaxx heads and I'm sure they would on the TF, but the B3 shim kit will take care of that with no grinding on the parts. That interference is apparently very common in aftermarket rockers, regardless of the head used. When the spring diameter increases and all the other aftermarket nuances that occur, something is going to get in the way. That's why it's called Hot Rodding. It's making it work that is half the fun. If you want Lego's that fall together, this is the wrong hobby.
 
I built a 340 for my buddy with the Procomp CNCed heads. Used Comp Ultra Pro Magnums 1.5 ratio. Fit good. I had to clearance a few of the stands .020-.060. Fit perfect then. Sweep dam near perfect. No pushrod to head rubbing. I used Edelbrock springs and retainers and locks. Lots of clearance to spring and retainer. I did have a Speedmaster set of rockers to try. The sweep was off a little bit but would of been fine for a lower rpm street build. Kim
 
Here is a pic of the PRW rockers on my magnum

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Cudafever said:
I would have said the top one for the SM on the first two pic,OK OK before Jpar gets all fired up lets just say the" finish" aka "look" much better on the lower one on the first two pic's:thumbsup::lol:
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You rang...:D..
I fell for the hype and bought Hughes rockers... 1• 6:1.. I'm extremely happy with them but in hindsight I don't think I gained much from the 273 rockers that I had.... If I wanted more I could have just put a bigger cam in ..
 
oldkimmer said:
I built a 340 for my buddy with the Procomp CNCed heads. Used Comp Ultra Pro Magnums 1.5 ratio. Fit good. I had to clearance a few of the stands .020-.060. Fit perfect then. Sweep dam near perfect. No pushrod to head rubbing. I used Edelbrock springs and retainers and locks. Lots of clearance to spring and retainer. I did have a Speedmaster set of rockers to try. The sweep was off a little bit but would of been fine for a lower rpm street build. Kim
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Which SM''s did you try? 1.5, 1.6 etc. Thanks for the real world info!
 
T
gzig5 said:
My PRW 1.6 rockers hit the retainer on my ProMaxx heads and I'm sure they would on the TF, but the B3 shim kit will take care of that with no grinding on the parts. That interference is apparently very common in aftermarket rockers, regardless of the head used. When the spring diameter increases and all the other aftermarket nuances that occur, something is going to get in the way. That's why it's called Hot Rodding. It's making it work that is half the fun. If you want Lego's that fall together, this is the wrong hobby.
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The pictures I posted are the PRW 1.6 rockers on my trick flow heads. But like you said I have mikes at B3 racing kit
 
THE SALE HAS POSTED!!! My cart total dropped from $883 to $545!!!
:usflag:

EDIT: It’s a 40% sale again!! WOOHOO!!!!!!
 
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I’m thinking of buying the standard hydraulic flat tappet heads. They are $766.92 otd. Dang I just don’t know. I don’t ‘need’ a set right now.

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75slant6 said:
Nothing yet. But here’s what I have in my cart currently.

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is that the better way to go? Buy them bare and have them outfitted with those valves? I didn’t read through this long thread.
 
I bought bare heads and then got Edelbrock parts to assemble them. That way u can put in whatever suits ur needs best. My machinest was very impressed with them. Kim
 
mopardude318 said:
I’m thinking of buying the standard hydraulic flat tappet heads. They are $766.92 otd. Dang I just don’t know. I don’t ‘need’ a set right now.

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is that the better way to go? Buy them bare and have them outfitted with those valves? I didn’t read through this long thread.
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The way I see it, if I buy the assembled heads, I’m gonna have them taken apart and inspected and put different springs in anyway, so I may as well buy em bare. It actually turns out to be cheaper too.
 
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