Project "Chihuahua" '65 Formula S Restoration "Estilo Mexicano"

Members Restorations

  1. dibbons

    dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    Leaf spring mounting pads needed the same treatment as the springs as well as sanding with 60 grit.

    rusty leaf bracket 2.JPG

    leaf sprig mount acid 1.JPG

    leaf spring mount rust reform 1.JPG
     
  2. dibbons

    dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    Needed to scrape the grime off the fuel pump with a razor blade as a first step. Painted the water pump and fuel pump with RustOleum "high heat" (gray) which is sold as coatings for home barbeques and such (found the paint left over from another project). First photo shows water pump after Ospho wash (the surface rust was first removed with a drill using a grit covered brush/wheel). Water outlet painted black with some left over caliper paint.

    water pump Ospho.JPG

    water pump painted.JPG

    fuel pump painted high heat 1.JPG

    t stat housing 2.JPG

    Painted t stat.JPG
     
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    • dibbons

      dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      Follow-up to post #99: The tweaked trunk has been reworked with mixed results; three corners are passable and the passenger side upper corner remains a little high. Being the fact I want to bring the vehicle home as soon as possible, I am going to forego any more fine tuning and approach that imperfection some other day or week or year (lol).

      What we did was bang/bend the hood down where it lay up in the air in the passenger side lower rear corner. Then we noticed the sheet metal surrounding the passenger side hood hinge had split somewhere along the way.

      So I asked the welder to clamp the sheet metal down closer to the hinge where it belongs and add a small reinforcement plate around that area to repair it once and for all. However, he added no plate and just welded on the sheet metal using MIG or TIG (see last two fotos).

      The end result is that the passenger side upper corner of the trunk is a little too high (see foto #1). I see no way to adjust it "down" by loosening or readjusting any hinge fasteners.

      Other fotos in order: Lower passenger corner, lower driver corner, upper driver corner, passenger hinge, driver hinge.

      P.S. Edit: Sometime in the near future I may attempt to shim the driver's side hinge to find if that will lower the passenger side rear corner a bit more.

      Trunk Repair 1.JPG

      Trunk Repair 2.JPG

      Trunk Repair 3.JPG

      Trunk Repair 4.JPG

      Trunk Repair 5.JPG

      Trunk Repair 6.JPG

      trunk weld 2.JPG

      trunk weld 1.JPG
       
      Last edited: Nov 20, 2020
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      • dibbons

        dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        Preview of the finished project.

        preview 1.png

        preview 2.png

        preview 3.png
         
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        • YY1

          YY1 Well-Known Member

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          Lookin' good.

          Looks like you are on the downhill slope.

          That's a great feeling.
           
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          • dibbons

            dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            Update: Back to the motor; cleaned up the mounting for the alternator by using spacers in place of the hodgepodge washers, spacers, and nuts. Alternator is offset to the outside to utilize the front crankshaft pulley (rear pulley is being used by power steering pump). This "genius" arrangement is the result of a previous owner removing the factory A/C. I am slowly gathering up some factory A/C parts in order to get it back to original state.

            alt mount old 1.JPG

            alt mount old 2.JPG

            alt mounted 4.JPG

            alt mounted 3.JPG
             
            Last edited: Oct 4, 2020
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            • dibbons

              dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              Fabricated an inner bracket for the Federal P/S pump. Previously, it was only attached with the outside bracket.

              federal p:s pump 2.JPG

              Federal p:s pump 1.JPG

              New ps bracket 1.JPG
               
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              • dibbons

                dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                Update: Body shop dust clean-up and "wax". That Mexican body shop "Los Pelones" (the bald guys) had a constant layer of gray dust on the floor. Now at home, I brought out the leaf blower and vacuum cleaner to spruce up the interior before applying seam sealers and sound proofing (but first I would like to install the motor/transmission, roof insulation, headliner, dash, front and rear glass).

                As a second step, I sponged off the floor with water mixed with some powdered laundry detergent. As a final step, I tried to apply some Meguiars liquid cleaner wax. Sponge kept getting nicked from the spot welds, but I trudged on and forward. Later we may have to clean up seam areas with wax & grease remover to make the sealer stick. Whatever wax got spread around, I am sure it's a very thin layer. This is a dusty neighborhood (dirt roads) so something to help keep the dirt from sticking is a must.

                interior wax 1.JPG

                interior wax 2.JPG

                interior wax 6.JPG

                interior wax 11.JPG

                interior wax 12.JPG
                 
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                • dibbons

                  dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                  Update: Used a toothbrush and chrome cleaner to polish the factory steering wheel spokes and center; then cleaned up and "waxed" under hood area (same procedure as in post #133). I will need to remove the power brake booster and master cylinder in order to clean up those two elements.

                  underhood wax 2.JPG

                  underhood wax 3.JPG
                   
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                  • dibbons

                    dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                    Update: Interior trim, dash, and dash pad are ready to go. Same acrylic enamel used as on the body racing stripe and upper door (plus a different shade per factory specs for the speaker grill area). After cleaning and de-rusting, RustOleum was used on the inside areas that remain hidden after installation.

                    interior trim 1.JPG

                    interior trim 2.JPG

                    dash 2.JPG

                    dash 7.JPG

                    dash 11.JPG

                    dash pad 1.JPG

                    dash pad 2.JPG
                     
                    Last edited: Oct 14, 2020
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                    • 89on35s

                      89on35s Inferno Red Duster FABO Gold Member

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                      Looking great!

                      Cley
                       
                    • dibbons

                      dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                      Update: Brake booster degreased. Then three steps to finish up: light coat of Ospho (foto #1), RustOleum red primer (foto #2), SEM trim black that I had leftover from painting backlight louvers for a BBody (foto #3). Don't know how well the trim black will hold up under the hood.

                      brake booster ospho.JPG

                      brake booster Rustoleum.JPG

                      brake booster black.JPG
                       
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                      • dibbons

                        dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                        Update: 904 Transmission rebuilt by local shop. Changed out the over-running clutch and the discs. I am brushing on a coat of RustOleum clean metal primer (white) so we can more easily locate any transmission leaks after installation (first two photos are how the trans looked when I delivered it to the shop). I painted only half today because it takes a lot of elbow grease (and time) to remove the baked on crud leftover after a spray cleaning.

                        The model number on the 904 matches the transmission used on the '65 Formula S models, as shown on the Mopar master application list I found online.

                        904 13.JPG

                        904 14.JPG

                        904 paint 1.JPG

                        904 paint 2.JPG

                        904 paint 3.JPG
                         
                      • dibbons

                        dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                        The floor/trunk patches were not leveled out by the painter. Result is that his final coats did not cover the rough edges of the black 3M panel adhesive used to fill the welding pinholes. That's what happens when one is not on-site to oversee every little detail.

                        The remedy was for me to sand them back down with abrasives attached to a power drill and Dremel tool. I pre-treated some spots with a little Ospho. Then brushed on two coats of RustOleum clean metal primer (white). That was enough of a fix, however I went one step beyond by spraying on one coat of RustOleum High Performance Enamel (black). Henceforth, future generations will have no problem finding where the patch panels are located thanks to the color contrast. Eventually, insulation and carpeting will cover the scars.

                        Bar rusty floor 5.JPG

                        Bar sanded floor 5.JPG

                        floor pan final white 3.JPG

                        floor pan final black 1.JPG

                        floor pan final black 2.JPG
                         
                        Last edited: Nov 2, 2020
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                        • dibbons

                          dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                          Update: The gold plastic cover for the trunk latch was split open on top (the weakest point) and one seam was split open on one corner. I super-glued some small nails in the defective areas (for reinforcement) and then covered them with a generic two-part epoxy (one part black, one part white). Smoothed the hardened epoxy out with a Dremel tool/sanding disc. Then one coat of white Fusion plastic paint (no primer needed per label) followed by one coat of black RustOleum plastic paint. We "lost" the original gold color of the piece (except on the hidden inside portion), but black will do just fine. Also reinforced the two holes in the sides for the fasteners with the same epoxy mix (one hole had become elongated).

                          trunk latch cover 1.JPG

                          trunk latch cover 2.JPG

                          trunk latch cover 3.JPG

                          trunk latch cover 4.JPG

                          trunk latch cover 5.JPG

                          trunk latch cover 6.JPG

                          trunk latch cover 7.JPG

                          trunk latch cover 8.JPG
                           
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                          • dibbons

                            dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                            Update: Original Torque Convertor has a drain plug. Now empty, it was degreased (fotos #1 & #2), received treatments of Naval Jelly and Ospho (photo #3), RustOleum red primer (one coat-photo #4), and RustOleum high-performance black enamel (one coat-photo #5). I see one should pre-fill with 1 quart ATF before installation. I will also install the snout spacer (photo #6) that was previously not installed by previous owner and necessary to mate the 1980 318 block/crankshaft to the 1965 torqueflite 904 (I ran the motor/transmission about 2,000 road miles without the spacer as well).

                            convertor clean 1.JPG

                            convertor clean 2.JPG

                            convertor naval jelly ospho.JPG

                            convertor rustoleum.JPG

                            convertor black.JPG

                            904 spacer.jpeg
                             
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                            • 1969dodgedart

                              1969dodgedart Big Block 440

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                              Very cool ride
                               
                            • dibbons

                              dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                              The only wiring harness not requiring repair was the rear tail light harness (just cleaned it up and wrapped with tape and plastic tubing). The wiring harness/positive battery cable hooks were wrapped with shrink tubing as a final step (mostly 10mm wide tubing).

                              harness rubber 3.JPG

                              harness rubber 4.JPG

                              harness rubber 2.JPG

                              harness rubber 1.JPG

                              harness rubber 9.JPG

                              harness rubber 10.JPG

                              harness rubber 12.JPG
                               
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                              • dibbons

                                dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                                The under hood wire loom clips were cleaned in Evaporust and then a series of three shrink wraps were slipped on and shrunk. At the "joints" and ends of the shrink tubing I applied a dab of rubbery "liquid tape".

                                underhood clips cleaned.JPG

                                underhood rubber clamps.JPG
                                 
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                                • dibbons

                                  dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                                  The transmission crossmember was degreased, primed with RustOleum clean metal primer (white brush-on), sanded with a scratch pad, one spray coat of RustOleum color coat, and one final coat of RustOleum clear (still wet in photo). If you notice, the crossmember has been modified to accept TTI 2.5" dual exhaust system.

                                  crossmember.jpeg

                                  trans crossmember painted 2.JPG

                                  trans crossmember painted  3.JPG

                                  trans crossmember painted 4.JPG
                                   
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                                  • dibbons

                                    dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                                    Cleaned up the voltage regulator and license plate lamp, applied Ospho, sprayed on SEM trim black, and reinforced the area around the lens screw holes with a two-part epoxy (that area had some visible cracks). The lens itself was amazingly clear so I did not even bother to polish it up. Note: The voltage regular had a mud/dirt hornet nest attached to it when I took it from storage, which caused some rust to form underneath the area where the "nest" was attached.

                                    lens and voltage regulator 1.JPG

                                    lens and voltage regulator 3.JPG

                                    license lite 1.JPG
                                     
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                                    • pishta

                                      pishta I know I'm right....

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                                      how did you paint that stripe, rattle can or gun? That looks great and you got the front correct ending behind the trim plate. Im gonna paint my black stripe one day...
                                       
                                    • dibbons

                                      dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                                      The undercoating from front splash guards was removed at home (quite a chore scraping and using rotary attachments on hand drill). They were taken to the sandblaster, then wax and grease remover prep, Ospho, and one coat of RustOleum clean metal primer (white brush-on). One of the elements was rust-pitted with some holes through it. Since I did not feel like farming it out for fabrication repair, I applied some left over 3M two-part panel adhesive (black) to patch it up.

                                      The two rails above the side windows that have teeth to hook the headliner must be stainless steel and did not need sandblasting, I cleaned them up at home with a drill and rotary brush, Ospho, and clean metal primer.

                                      The exhaust manifolds were sandblasted, cleaned with wax/grease remover, treated with Ospho (Ospho residue removed the following day with scratch pad), and painted with VHT high-temp. I don't like the sliver (too shiny for my taste) but it stays for now.

                                      rusty parts 2.JPG

                                      sanblasted parts 1.JPG

                                      pitted splash guard 1.JPG

                                      pitted splash guard 4.JPG

                                      stainless for headliner.JPG

                                      headliner teeth.JPG

                                      splash shields etc painted white.JPG
                                       
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                                      • dibbons

                                        dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                                        The paint stripe (gold) was done at the body shop using the same acrylic enamel formula (Dupont/Axalta) we used on the body (white). Not rattle can at all. I was not present for the stripe painting, I can see it is slightly off center toward the passenger side (but don't tell anyone).
                                         
                                        Last edited: Nov 20, 2020
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                                        • Demonracer

                                          Demonracer 71 Demon 00 Ram 16 Chrysler 300S 05 Caravan FABO Gold Member

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                                          I think you are secretly building a show quality car. LMAO
                                           
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