Pulley Alignment

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68HAVOK

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Need some advise on my 1965 Barracuda with a 318in it. I have had the worst time with alternators. The one that came on the car was an oreilly's Ultima unit and it died and wouldn't charge. Got another one and it overcharged and blew up my optima battery (was hissing and spewed all over my drivers side of my engine bay destroying a bunch of stuff). I had a 1 wire tuff stuff from summit in my garage so i threw that on, and the very next day the altenator was making a loud whine. I checked the alignment with all of these alternators and the pulleys do not line up. I bought a brand new alternator bracket for a 67-69 small block to make sure I had the right one as the original seemed a little bent or was a 70+ unit. I'm wondering if the crank pulley or water pump pulley is wrong. In pictures I see online they should all be single groove for a non AC and non power steering car.

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Well, looking at your alternator bracket- that is not correct for a 65. Here is a correct one that will allow your alternator to be correctly aligned as long as you have the correct water pump and crank pulleys
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But! If you used the earlier pulleys.... would that not throw off the alignment?
I personally have not had that problem so I just ask.

To move the Alt. outwards, I think you’ll need a longer bolt and spacers to do the job.
 
This car has a 318 in it though. Not the 273.

It doesn’t matter whether it’s a 273/318/340 or 360 as long as the proper matching components are used: alternator bracket in the pic, cast iron 64-69 water pump, and correct pulleys
 
You can use the 70-Up components as well - they just need to match
 
So if I got a new crank pulley and water pump pulley and made sure they were for a 67-69 like the bracket it should all line up?
Thank you for the help.
 
I just think you need the correct brackets or experiment with spacers
 
I've got the same problem in my '64 dart. Im running a 360 that previously was in a truck, so I used the pulleys that came with it and the same alt brackets and I still have the alignment issue.
 
I'm looking at the same problem....Can the Alternator pulley just be pulled a little bit forward on the Alternator shaft with a puller to line up better?
 
I'm looking at the same problem....Can the Alternator pulley just be pulled a little bit forward on the Alternator shaft with a puller to line up better?
On this specific Tuff Stuff the pulley is pressed on. I don't have a way to do so. I ordered a powermaster and I think those can be pulled off by a nut.
 
On this specific Tuff Stuff the pulley is pressed on. I don't have a way to do so. I ordered a powermaster and I think those can be pulled off by a nut.
I’ve got That alternator bracket if you need one. Pm me.

Jake
 
The cast water pump needs the early bracket and pulleys. The later aluminum water pump, uses the set you bought, and correct pulleys.
 
I'm looking at the same problem....Can the Alternator pulley just be pulled a little bit forward on the Alternator shaft with a puller to line up better?
Why not make a small spacer to move it forward the correct amount ?
 
Why not make a small spacer to move it forward the correct amount ?

Do you mean a spacer to move the pulley forward on the Alternator shaft? Does the pulley need to be tight up against something? Never pulled an Alternator pulley before, but I do have a puller.
 
Do you mean a spacer to move the pulley forward on the Alternator shaft? Does the pulley need to be tight up against something? Never pulled an Alternator pulley before, but I do have a puller.
I moved the whole alternator, it`s even under the motor plate, where the stock fuel pump would be. I built all of the brackets and adj. linkage. Had to make a spacer for the lower pulley to line up w/ the fluid damper too. A straight edge across the front of the pulleys is ur friend . Of course I like building stuff------------
 
The cast water pump needs the early bracket and pulleys.
Ditto. The OP has the cast-iron water pump. The later alum w.p. puts the pulley location ~1" closer to the radiator. Don't switch to the alum w.p. or your fan will be too close to the radiator (my mistake). Many setups will work. It is confusing because there were several pulley setups for AC and/or p.s., which varied year to year. I think the crankshaft damper also changed in thickness, also true of some after-market dampers, which moves the crank pulleys. Some cars had 4 crank pulleys. The OP appears to be missing 1 or 2 inner crank pulleys. The outer-most one was usually for power steering. Google Images can help. I would post photos of my 1965 273, but it would just confuse since I have the alum w.p. and had to get creative. In general, V-belts need to align +/-1/8" axially. Serpentine belts are much less forgiving and some newer cars have constant problems w/ thrown belts and squeaks, as parts age.
 
I got the bracket on its way from the picture posted. I hope that works. I'll keep you informed. I went to buy a new belt from the part number off the belt on it now and it said it was for an Impala. Anyone know what belt I am gonna need by chance as I doubt this will be the right one. Also, is there gonna be a issue with having a two groove alternator with the new bracket that is on its way? Thanks to all!
 
If you are talking about the alt bracket that @65 Dartman posted its still not gonna Work properly until you also get the correct pulleys to go along with the rest.
 
You're using a 70 and ,later water pump pulley on a 69 and earlier water pump... there is a difference in the depth of the cast iron water pump vs the aluminum one... You are using aluminum water pump pulley on a cast iron water pump...

the 69 and earlier pulley is more bell shaped vs the 'chamfer' on the 70 and later...
 
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