Qa1 6 link kit?
- Thread starter 70dartboy
- Start date
-
Yes. I looked into it heavily but for the cost, no way.
Plus having talked to several suspension experts including Ron Sutton, a standard 4 link will do just as good if not better for a lot less money. A lot less.
Also take note as to where the links are mounted....to the factory spring hangers, you cant run a wide tire, maybe a tad bit wider than you could with the springs in the stock location but you're talking maybe 1/2 inch.
69wacuda
Handling, and a 500ci engine.... All in good time!
bump
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
that thing i about as useful as hen **** on a pump handle..
Not a complete bolt on, there's no way for one to be 100 percent bolt on. Not without some serious drilling of the 40 yr old thin frame rails
67autocross
A new iron curtain drawn across the 49th parallel
You could do the RMS street lynx and with a little extra work bolt it in with on welding
You guys kill me posting questions about something and then not even having the courtesy to post a link to WTF it is you're talkin about. Allow me.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/qa1-r101-220?seid=srese1&gclid=CKSXm96A_MwCFYKBaQodC-MGjg
And the instructions.
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/qa1-r401-170.pdf
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/qa1-r101-220?seid=srese1&gclid=CKSXm96A_MwCFYKBaQodC-MGjg
And the instructions.
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/qa1-r401-170.pdf
Wow they've dropped the prices on that big time!!! Last I looked, it was nearly 4 grand.
69wacuda
Handling, and a 500ci engine.... All in good time!
Would you do an HDK coil over front tubular with a QA1 rear 6 link or a QA1 level 2 handling front/rear setup? Summit Racing has the Level 2 setup for 4600.00. Doesn't seem to bad for a full setup.
growdude
Disabled but not dead
Triangulated 4-Link
$349.99
Axle Size: *
- Powder Coating Options: *
Quantity:
Description:
This 4-Link is HUGE!! We use 1.5" DOM tube with a 1/4" wall thickness in all of our adjustable bars. The thread size of our bar ends is a whopping 1-1/8" in diameter. Our threads alone are larger than some company's 4-Link bars. We are redefining the way 4-Links need to be made. The axle brackets included in the kit are 1/4" thick and CNC laser cut. 9/16" Grade 8 zinc plated bolts, nylon lock nuts, and washers are included.
You can order this over the internet, but you will need to call in to let us know what sizes you want your bars to be. Please call 855-618-6090 to give us your specs.
Related products
$349.99
Axle Size: *
- Powder Coating Options: *
Quantity:
Description:
This 4-Link is HUGE!! We use 1.5" DOM tube with a 1/4" wall thickness in all of our adjustable bars. The thread size of our bar ends is a whopping 1-1/8" in diameter. Our threads alone are larger than some company's 4-Link bars. We are redefining the way 4-Links need to be made. The axle brackets included in the kit are 1/4" thick and CNC laser cut. 9/16" Grade 8 zinc plated bolts, nylon lock nuts, and washers are included.
You can order this over the internet, but you will need to call in to let us know what sizes you want your bars to be. Please call 855-618-6090 to give us your specs.
Related products
- S10 5 link Wishbone Kit With Poly Bushings
$1,274.99 - 100 Percent Bolt-on S10 3-Link Kit
$649.99 - S10 3-Link Kit
$549.99 - S10 4-Link Kit
$524.99 - Heavy Duty Universal Triangulated 4-Link Kit
$359.99
If you want your tires tucked in, street proven tie rod ends, multiple motor choices with the same K,...... AND a mean low stance...the HDK is the only way (non-factory) to go on the front.
There are lots of ways to go on the rear .....mostly based on (IMO) your application, budget, and skill level.
Last edited:
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
ya want the best and most real world proven? then go with the RMS alter-k and street lynx. or ya can go cheap and hope for the best.. your car, your money and hopefully only your life.
If you want the best and MOST proven system, rebuild the stock chassis with all new parts. NOTHING has more time on it than that.
That said, what are you wanting to do with the car?
That said, what are you wanting to do with the car?
Can't argue with that. All depends on what you want in your suspension and what you plan to do with it.
Agreed. There's only 3 I'd trust , RMS, GTS or HDK (not in any particular order). Not seen any negative reviews on any of those 3 as far as strength or failures. The other options, not so much.
replicaracer43
Grumpy Old Man
- Joined
- Oct 10, 2008
- Messages
- 6,051
- Reaction score
- 7,867
I agree 100% Go look at the FAST handling mopar cars..... they are all torsion bar cars, NONE of the aftermarket systems have ever proven to be faster or handle better. They look trick, and in some cases might help header clearance, but that is bassically it. Do some research before you decide to spend a huge pile of money to "downgrade" your chassis.
Perhaps but I think it's more the driver not setting things up right.
It's far from a downgrade. The number 1 problem is most don't know how to properly tune them
replicaracer43
Grumpy Old Man
- Joined
- Oct 10, 2008
- Messages
- 6,051
- Reaction score
- 7,867
Good points, and yes, ANY system needs to be tuned to get the full benefit....
Yep. There's one thing I've noticed on a lot of those that "upgrade" the front......they don't upgrade the rear equally or the most they do is SS springs and a shocks, which help but it's all about balance
69wacuda
Handling, and a 500ci engine.... All in good time!
That is a GREAT question!
I would like a nimble street car. There is an autocross club about a mile from my house and I would like to take it out every once in a while and turn some good laps.
Current set up:
Tired 360
a518
drums all around
torsion bars
stock power steering
14" centerlines
Upgraded setup:
400 stroked to 500 (440 source kit)
Rack and Pinion steering
4 wheel disc brakes
17" possibly 18" symmetrical wheels (able to rotate all four)
Ride height adjustability
Four corner scaling adjustability
Frame tie-in/ box-in stiffening
Air Conditioning
The ability to blow the doors off my brothers 69 Nova 427HP motor!
I understand. Then might I make a suggestion? You need to get with our good member, autoxcuda and get him to tell you about his car. He does just that with his cool little Cuda notchback and it has the stock suspension, I believe with add ons like good control arms and such.......at least I THINK he still has the K frame and leaf sprAngs still. His car is a total badass. Talk to somebody that actually DOES what you want to do.......and he DOES. You might not need to plunk down all the dough you think. ......but then again, you may want to do that and that's cool too. But talk to him first.
67autocross
A new iron curtain drawn across the 49th parallel
If you do go with a big block I would for sure go with a coil over front end, that way you can get enough spring rate with the heavy front end, plus it will save you a lot of headaches trying to fit the big torsion bars and headers in the car.
I for sure wouldn't. You can get more than enough spring rate with torsion bars. Firm Feel has 1.18" torsion bars on the shelf, they have a 370 lb/in wheel rate. And they'll make you custom torsion bars if you'd like, all the way up to 1.24" is possible with the A-body torsion bar anchors. Not to mention it's a 400 stroker, so it probably has aluminum heads anyway? Which means that engine isn't much, if any, heavier than a stock small block with cast iron parts. Like the 340 in my car which still has iron heads on it.
For your AutoX goals you don't need an aftermarket K frame. You can do everything you need and more with the torsion bar front end if it's set up properly. AutoXcuda does it, Tomswheels did it with his Valiant and has even outpaced Mary Pozi's 500 hp autoX monster camaro at an event, despite being down 150 hp. Tim Werner's "red brick" valiant has lapped at 160 mph with torsion bars and leaf springs at Portland International, and put down a time faster than a C06 Corvette. No kidding. LilCuda owns that car now.
Also, for the "coilovers are the only way to go fast crowd", check out this Hot Rod magazine article. You'll see that the Hotchkis taxi, a '70 Satellite 4 door, ran over a second faster on the autocross than Wracks's duster did. Wrack71's duster has the full RMS treatment, and he's spent the time setting it up too. That's a big car with torsion bars and leaf springs coming in faster on an autoX course than a fully coilover converted duster. Not only that, the Taxi was the 2nd fastest car on that autoX, faster than all but one of those other fancy rides. And that Satellite is at a huge disadvantage, pun intended, because of it's size. Wheelbase and weight are very important in autoX. Here's that link- 2013 Muscle Car of the Year - Popular Hot Rodding Magazine
My Duster is set up similarly Steve's (autoXcuda) and Tom's (tomswheels) cars, my specs are-
-1.12" Firm Feel torsion bars (300 lb/in)
-Afco leaf springs, 120 lb/in with Afco leaf spring sliders
-Hellwig 1 1/8" tubular front sway bar
-Hellwig 7/8" rear sway bar (e-body application)
-Hotchkis non adjustable Fox shocks
-13" Dr. Diff cobra style front disks, 11x2.5" rear drums
-16:1 flaming river manual steering box
-18x9 front rims with 275/35/18 BFG KDW2's, 18x10 rears with 295/35/18's same tires
-lowered to ~1" clearance from frame to .375" thick LCA bumpstops, ~5" from ground to K-frame, 4" to the Dougs header flanges
-Milodon road race oil pan (baffled, trap doors, 6qts)
-3.55 rear gears with 833, 68-70 B rear with 1/2" spring offset
-frame stiffening: subframe connectors, tubular radiator support brace, torque boxes, "J" bars tying firewall to front frame rails above radiator support brace, shock towers tied in and reinforced to J's. Stock LCA's boxed, K member seam welded and gusseted
-currently running non adjustable tubular UCA's and stock LCA's, soon to be replaced with Bergman double adjustable UCA's and gusseted QA1 tubular lowers for easier alignments and additional frame to LCA clearance for further lowering.
It's a heck of a set up, the car handles VERY well. I'm always working on the darn thing though so I haven't been to any events to really put it to the test, but there's no reason why it wouldn't hang with any of the other cars I've mentioned based on its set up. Only difference would be the tires (need much stickier tires for that!) and of course the driver, as I'm sure I'm not nearly as capable as any of those guys. But that's not the cars fault. ;)
Last edited:
-
