Qa1 6 link kit?

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69wacuda said:
The Calvert sliders are apparently have the proper angle built in compared to the afco sliders. This is supposed to help with leaf spring geometry and help it function more as it should.
The car is painted already so if I can get by without messing with the body that would be great but trimming the fender lip a little bit doesn't bother me to much, because I did the original body work anyway so.
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You mean the rear sliders to replace the shackles?

The Hotchkis leafs put the rear very low. I was not able to run their supplies dropped front hanger because it puts the rear too low. And the pinion angle was sky high. The sliders put the rear spring eye up higher. That should move the pinion up some, but put the rear of the car lower.
 
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autoxcuda said:
You mean the rear sliders to replace the shackles?

The Hotchkis leaf put the rear very low. I was not able to run their supplies dropped front hanger because it put the rear too low. And the pinion angle was sky high. The sliders put the rear spring eye up higher.
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Correct about replacing the shackles. To be honest the sliders are a new to me and I have them on the list at the advice of a couple of members on here. I am looking to get the car to function on the road as best as possible.
 
I was thinking of these for wheels and tires. 17x9 wheel all the way around if it will fit.

Barracuda 275-40R17 Wheels and Tires.JPG
 
They didn't have a 69 FB Barracuda so I threw them on a RR.

Plymouth Wheels and Tires.JPG
 
3.976". I realize I will have to use a spring relocation kit but I really, really, really want at least 17x9 or 18s under the car.
 
69wacuda said:
3.976" Backspacing with 0mm offset
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Nope.

In the front, a 17x9 will be very difficult to accomplish. You need about 6" of backspace to get a 17x9 in the front. The problem is most 17" rims have tie rod end interference issues starting around 5.6" of backspace. That might work with a 275 on a barracuda because the fenders are a little more forgiving than on a Dart, but it would probably require fender rolling.

That's why I run 18's, they clear the tie rod ends because the tie rod actually fits inside an 18" rim. I haven't rolled my fenders, but my 18x9's have about 6.1" of backspace if you correct for a 73+ disk brake set up.
 
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they have a 17x9 with a 12mm offset. That still wouldn't be enough huh?
 
69wacuda said:
they have a 17x9 with a 12mm offset. That still wouldn't be enough huh?
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Nope.

Not even close for front.

In the rear with stock a-body housing, needs to be around 4.75"-5.00" backspacing with aftermarket or cut down large bolt axles and drums and your moved in springs.

If rear disk, need to make up for rotor hat thickness with additional backspacing.
 
72bluNblu said:
Nope.

In the front, a 17x9 will be very difficult to accomplish. You need about 6" of backspace to get a 17x9 in the front. The problem is most 17" rims have tie rod end interference issues starting around 5.6" of backspace. That might work with a 275 on a barracuda because the fenders are a little more forgiving than on a Dart, but it would probably require fender rolling.

That's why I run 18's, they clear the tie rod ends because the tie rod actually fits inside an 18" rim. I haven't rolled my fenders, but my 18x9's have about 6.1" of backspace if you correct for a 73+ disk brake set up.
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so what size front tire are you running then?
 
dukeboy_318 said:
so what size front tire are you running then?
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I'm running 275/35/18's. The rims are 18x9" with +35mm of offset (6.4" backspace). The offset is misleading, I have dr diffs 13" rotor kit and that adds 5mm, and I run a 3mm spacer. So, if you're comparing to 73+ disks it's about a 27mm offset, or 6.1" of backspace.

That's for a Dart or Duster. Obviously the frame clearance is the same as a barracuda, but I think the barracuda fenders are a teeny bit wider because of the body based on some of the combo's I've seen. I don't have a barracuda though. But to run 275's up front you need about 6" of backspace on a 9" wide rim. Plus what're your brakes add compared to the 73+ disks.
 
69wacuda said:
Feedback on my build plan? I have rolled it out in stages due to budget concerns. Stage 3 is as such because I will have to purchase wheels and tires when I upgrade to the BBP. Im hoping for feedback on the products not so much the rollout of the different stages. Im hoping to roll with 17x8 or even 18x8/9s if I can. Will see if i have the back spacing for that. If you have had personal experience good or bad with any of these products please make some comments. Thanks y'all.View attachment 1714939605
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You don't really need the QA1 tubular LCA's unless you're going to slam the car on the ground for ride height. I think a set of gusseted stock LCA's will be more than enough. The only thing the tubular LCA's really buy you is about 1" of additional suspension travel, and even lowered almost 2" I'm rarely ever on my bump stops, although I run poly bump stops that are only .375" tall. That's with 1.12" bars, with 1.06" you would want to be a little higher than that. I have about 1" from the frame to the bumstop on my car, or about 1.375" from the frame to the top of the LCA. I do have a set of the tubular LCA's to install on my car, but I'm going to try and lower it more as well.

I know you said you weren't looking for input on the stages, but move "stage 4" to stage 2. Replace the tubular LCA's with gusseted stock LCA's and it's not a terribly expensive step, and your car will instantly handle much better. Waiting until last to install the larger torsion bars is a waste, once you have the shocks and torsion bars the car will already handle much better and you can add the other parts as you go.
 
I reprioritized my build plan to hopefully reflect a better, more gradually progressive step by step way of getting a great handling car. I just purchased the shocks and front sway bar, therefor I am pretty much at stage 2. Would it be better to ditch the factory power steering for the Borgeson steering before I move to the torsion bars? I just find the factory box to be so light that you get very poor feedback if you try any spirited driving what-so-ever.
Barracuda Upgrades JPEG.JPG
 
69wacuda said:
I reprioritized my build plan to hopefully reflect a better, more gradually progressive step by step way of getting a great handling car. I just purchased the shocks and front sway bar, therefor I am pretty much at stage 2. Would it be better to ditch the factory power steering for the Borgeson steering before I move to the torsion bars? I just find the factory box to be so light that you get very poor feedback if you try any spirited driving what-so-ever.View attachment 1714940611
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i'd do the torsion bars first, than the steering but it's really up to you
 
If you have the saginaw pump, you can reduce the pressure very easy, and for bassically free. will give better road feel. If you have a federal pump, id swap to the saginaw
 
replicaracer43 said:
If you have the saginaw pump, you can reduce the pressure very easy, and for bassically free. will give better road feel. If you have a federal pump, id swap to the saginaw
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I believe I do have the Saginaw pump. How does one go about "adjusting" it?
 
I think I found the article. It is by an article called Pump It Down in Mopar Action by a guy named Rick Ehrenberg I think. I may have to try it out just to tied me over for now.
69wacuda said:
I believe I do have the Saginaw pump. How does one go about "adjusting" it?
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69wacuda said:
I think I found the article. It is by an article called Pump It Down in Mopar Action by a guy named Rick Ehrenberg I think. I may have to try it out just to tied me over for now.
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Thats the one! it makes a pretty signifigant difference. That and as much positive caster as you can get helps a ton
 
Yup. Torsion bars first. Those with the shocks will totally transform your car's handling, even without the other modifications. Then you can continue to tune as you go and decide how far you want to go.

The steering is manageable, I still run the stock power steering in my challenger (federal pump). If you can reduce the pressure by shimming your pump in the meantime that will help a lot too.
 
If you were given $300 big ones by your wife for your B-day/father's day present. Which would you choose? Keep in mind I just bought hotchkis adjustable shocks and front sway bar kit,, otherwise it's all stock. Anything North of 300 I have to cover with fun money.
*Procar rally seat
*Intellitronix create a dash kit
*Hotchkis rear sway
*QA1 strut bars
*Hotchkis rear leaf springs

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Received my sway bar from summit this week. I had a buddy help install it the other night. My Hotchkis adjustable shocks are on back order; they are estimated to ship out next week.
 
Here's a Picture of it after we got it installed.

20160610_165534.jpg
 
You may want to install the swaybar link so the threaded part is pointing down, looks like it might interfere with the frame bracket, not sure.
 
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