Qa1 upper control arm and moog offset bushing help

[72bluNblu]

I understand how it all works, I’ll let everyone know what’s causing the right side to not get neutral camber. If just the big ball joint control arm fixes it guess I’m right eh

It’s pretty clear from your statements that you don’t understand “how it all works”.

The large ball joint control arm won’t change a thing, because the measurements are identical to the small ball joint control arms. If for some reason your camber adjustment range changes, it will be because you accidentally changed something else during the installation process.

 

[Shadowfirexz]

It’s pretty clear from your statements that you don’t understand “how it all works”.

The large ball joint control arm won’t change a thing, because the measurements are identical to the small ball joint control arms. If for some reason your camber adjustment range changes, it will be because you accidentally changed something else during the installation process.

 

[Shadowfirexz]

Here is a Abody spindle left and a b body spindle right... I’m running a small ball joint qa1 on a big ball joint b body spindle with a adapter. The 52301 I ordered does have different geometry at the ball joint end to hold the bigger ball joint and sits slightly differently on the spindle then the incorrect 52303 small ball joint arm made for a 70-72 Abody small ball joint spindle. Look at the difference in the spindles at the ball joint end. Clearly different geometry there or am I blind? The cam adjuster on the arm is maxed right out completely there’s literally no more travel past the .5 negative camber which is not right. We are talking like a degree off to get me into positive if I wanted. I’m confident bolting that 52301 arm which is correct for the spindle I’m running will give that change. If it doesn’t then I’m wrong.... also everywhere I read about these goofy adapters for the ball joints most people are complaining about them. It very well could be a k memeber slightly off during install, a slightly rolled frame or a adjustment off somewhere else but doubt that as the control arm literally has no more travel it’s fully extended and cannot be adjusted further no matter what I do to the castor or ride height or anything else. Wrong arm and wrong ball joint is where I’m starting this mess as I don’t want a small ball joint in a big ball joint spindle. I’ll go from there and see what happens.

 

[sccachallenger]

I just had my Duster aligned yesterday. QA1 uppers, Lowers and K frame. Drivers side had was able to get in spec but passenger side couldn’t get any less than -2.5 camber. After some head scratching and to the point of figuring the unibody was askew the tech noticed that it looked like the k frame was shifted to one side a tad. He loosened the k frame and moved it over, bingo front end in spec. Although not optimized for handling, this thing goes straight, tires are straight and I’m ok with that. Just my 2 cents.

Your factory K used screws with a taper towards the head to help locate the K on the rail.
Does your QA1 K use the factory screws, or a standard non-tapered screw?
If it doesn't use the factory fasteners you should probably take a lot of measurements before tightening the screws.
Just to make sure it's not crooked.

 

[Shadowfirexz]

Your factory K used screws with a taper towards the head to help locate the K on the rail.
Does your QA1 K us the factory screws, or a standard non-tapered screw?
If it doesn't use the factory fasteners you should probably take a lot of measurements before tightening the screws.
Just to make sure it's not crooked.

Update!!!!!!!!! The k member is out of alignment!!!!!!!! It’s the k member!!!!!!!!

 

[72bluNblu]

Here is a Abody spindle left and a b body spindle right... I’m running a small ball joint qa1 on a big ball joint b body spindle with a adapter. The 52301 I ordered does have different geometry at the ball joint end to hold the bigger ball joint and sits slightly differently on the spindle then the incorrect 52303 small ball joint arm made for a 70-72 Abody small ball joint spindle. Look at the difference in the spindles at the ball joint end. Clearly different geometry there or am I blind? The cam adjuster on the arm is maxed right out completely there’s literally no more travel past the .5 negative camber which is not right. We are talking like a degree off to get me into positive if I wanted. I’m confident bolting that 52301 arm which is correct for the spindle I’m running will give that change. If it doesn’t then I’m wrong.... also everywhere I read about these goofy adapters for the ball joints most people are complaining about them. It very well could be a k memeber slightly off during install, a slightly rolled frame or a adjustment off somewhere else but doubt that as the control arm literally has no more travel it’s fully extended and cannot be adjusted further no matter what I do to the castor or ride height or anything else. Wrong arm and wrong ball joint is where I’m starting this mess as I don’t want a small ball joint in a big ball joint spindle. I’ll go from there and see what happens.

View attachment 1715372269

The large ball joint UCA's are identical to the small ball joint UCA's except for the ball joint. The centerline of the ball joint doesn't move from one to the other. So the suspension geometry remains the same, regardless of the change from the small ball joint UCA to the large ball joint UCA. The tapered adaptors work fine if properly installed. I prefer to use large ball joint UCA's with large ball joint spindles to eliminate the adaptor just because it's an extra part, but they work fine if you're trying to keep your stock arms to save some money.

The spindles are different between the large and small ball joint spindles. But that picture you posted is of two large ball joint spindles. That's a 73+ A-body spindle, which uses the same exact ball joint and upper control arm as the FMJ spindle next to it. The geometry difference there is entirely the spindle, and has nothing to do with the ball joint. That entire article is a comparison of the spindles, not the control arms.

Your factory K used screws with a taper towards the head to help locate the K on the rail.
Does your QA1 K us the factory screws, or a standard non-tapered screw?
If it doesn't use the factory fasteners you should probably take a lot of measurements before tightening the screws.
Just to make sure it's not crooked.

The QA1 K uses standard bolts, it does not have the same self-centering properties as the original K frame and fasteners. Although even the factory K frames have a little wiggle room in them. But as noted the QA1 requires more careful placement than the factory K's because you can shift it around a bit.

Update!!!!!!!!! The k member is out of alignment!!!!!!!! It’s the k member!!!!!!!!

And there you have it. Installation issue.