Question: Ignition and T4 universal wiring kit

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GhostFish

GhostFish

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I'm replacing the wiring harness in my Cuda with a T4 universal kit from Northwest Autowire. I've ran into a little snag from the start having to do with the ignition. I've got after market gauges and an HEI distributor (if that matters) and I'm wanting to keep the stock ignition switch. The guide states to hook up the large yellow wire to the ignition run/accessory terminal then link it to the red wire to the battery.

I guess my question is which terminal to use. My 66 has 5 on the ignition switch. Battery, Start, Run, IGN1 and IGN2.

Should I just replace the ignition switch while I'm here or do I need to bridge terminals? I know the old wiring required IGN1 and IGN2 for two separate phases but considering that no longer exists, I'm not sure which way to go.

Thanks in advance.

Ant
 
"Keep the stock ignition." What does this mean? Keep the stock switch?

There is only so many ways around this

1--Replace the switch? With what? Unless you have a custom dash, you need a switch that fits

2--Me, I'd add one more wire to "keep" the factory scheme with IGN1/ IGN2, or as you say, bridge the two

3--You could use a diode wired from the start wire to act as IGN2. You need a diode to keep from causing a feedback situation. You can buy the largest amperage you can find at radio shack, wire from the start wire to IGN1, with the band of the diode towards the start relay end

4--You could convert the start relay to the later Jeep style, which has an extra set of contacts which perform the IGN2 function

5--You could wire a second relay, coil in parallel with the start relay, one contact to battery power, and the other contact wired to IGN1
 
zener diode to keep from back feeding the voltage.
 
@67Dart273: Sorry, meant stock ignition switch. I don't have a problem making a new switch fit but if I don't have to...

So essentially from what I'm understanding I can just run spare ACC wires to IGN1 and IGN2. They will only be complete circuits when the key is in that particular position. Is that right?
 
70aarcuda said:
zener diode to keep from back feeding the voltage.
Click to expand...

You don't want a zener, you want a rectifier diode. If for example you put a 10V zener in there, it would conduct in BOTH directions and be innefective
 
DarcCuda66 said:
@67Dart273: Sorry, meant stock ignition switch. I don't have a problem making a new switch fit but if I don't have to...

So essentially from what I'm understanding I can just run spare ACC wires to IGN1 and IGN2. They will only be complete circuits when the key is in that particular position. Is that right?
Click to expand...

Now you've confused me AGAIN. You don't want to intertie the ACC and IGN1/2 wires, as then it would run with the switch in any position.

The factory Mopar switches have SEVERAL separate switches inside the "can" that we call the switch, all of which are distinctly separate

ACC, hot in both run and ACC, feeds power to switched fuse buss

RUN, or IGN1, hot only in run.

"Bypass" or IGN2, hot only in start

"Start" normally yellow, feeds crank power to start relay

I see no real reason to go to the trouble of changing the switch to a different type. Last I knew, you could still buy replacement switches. If not, that might be a reason.
 
I'm understanding what you're saying, just not correctly typing it back I think. Each needs it's own separate tie into the fuse box. I was stating that I could just use my spare 12V spots from the fuse box to run the power to them.
 
DarcCuda66 said:
large yellow wire to the ignition run/accessory terminal then link it to the red wire to the battery.
Click to expand...
What does "link it" mean?
My guess is they have a relay in their harness and the yellow wire just actuates the relay coil. The red wire goes to BATT+ (always hot). Without a ballast, you should tie IGN1 & IGN2 together. When people use their factory harness w/ HEI, they usually just jumper the two terminals that went to the ballast. Sounds like you need to jumper similarly, but perhaps under the dash. If you don't, your ignition won't get power while cranking (i.e. no spark), since only IGN2 is powered in that position. I found that out the hard way with my custom engine harness. I had ASSumed that IGN1 got power in both "run" and "crank" positions.

If doing the jumpering at the key switch, remove the IGN1 & IGN2 terminals (release w/ small screwdriver) and fabricate a little jumper harness, using new "Packard 56" terminals (GM & Mopar). You could also use the crappy, unreliable clip-on taps, but sounds like you care about your car.

If for some reason you require a new ignition switch, I recall buying a new one for my 65 Dart for ~$10 (rockauto).
 
DarcCuda66 said:
needs it's own separate tie into the fuse box. I was stating that I could just use my spare 12V spots from the fuse box to run the power to them.
Click to expand...

??? Ign 1/ 2 does not go to the fuse panel.
 
I had to tie a few lines together when I installed the HEI distributor. As you can tell, I'm not versed in electrical slang. I have a digital scan of the wiring schematics. Link is below.

http://goo.gl/NuhhU

@BillGrissom: Thanks for the easy instructions. Hopefully I can figure it out /thumbsup

@67Dart273: My original wiring was trash. Only thing I have to go buy is the original wiring schematic that I found on Google. So I'm sorry if I'm confusing you. I'm diving in with both feet if you will and not much knowledge on early Mopar wiring.

http://goo.gl/TjAFN
http://goo.gl/HBGm5
 
If you would have posted this before you bought it, nobody on this site would have allowed you to buy it. What awful, uninstructive destructions!!!

How do you know what sizes the fuses are supposed to be?

First thing I'd had to do in trying to use that for anything would be to sit down and diagram what wires go/ to / from and to what circuits/ fuses they are connected
 
67Dart273 said:
If you would have posted this before you bought it, nobody on this site would have allowed you to buy it. What awful, uninstructive destructions!!!

How do you know what sizes the fuses are supposed to be?

First thing I'd had to do in trying to use that for anything would be to sit down and diagram what wires go/ to / from and to what circuits/ fuses they are connected
Click to expand...

I bought it a few months prior to joining the site actually. And the fuses were in it when I received it. Other individuals didn't seem to have any complaints with the kit.

http://goo.gl/xE0Qt

They didn't seem to mind using it either :) I'll figure it out I guess.
 
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