Radiator hose.

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cmac64dart

cmac64dart

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Hi looking to get a new 3 row radiator in my slant six to 360 conversion. I'm noticing that the slanty rad lower hose connection comes out on the passenger side while the v8 replacement comes out on the drivers side . The slanty seems to almost line up with the water pump . Is there a known reason for it to be routed all the way from the driver side? I would think the passenger side outlet would be better. What did you guys do?

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Slant 6 are different than V8s

V8s (small blocks)

Upper hose enters from passenger side (all years IIRC)

pre 70 the water pump exits on the drivers side (timing mark is visible from the passenger side) cast iron water pump, different timing cover, bolt on timing mark (except 69 where it is integrated but on the pass side), different accessory brackets than 70 up

70 up the water pump exits on the passenger side (timing mark is visible on the drivers side) Aluminum water pump, different timing cover, integrated timing mark, different accessory brackets than pre 70

69 down cast iron water pump
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70 up AL water pump
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69 Timing cover
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68 down with bolt on pass side timing mark
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70 up timing cover
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65 V8
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67 - 69 V8
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70 up V8
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My motor is a 1979 block 360. The water pump exits to passenger.. so with that being said I want the 22" rad passenger side exit on the bottom of the rad.. So a 3 row right side exit slant six after market rad should do the trick..Thats what I was thinking and thanks for the explanation...now it makes sense to me
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I would not use a /6 designed rad. the capacity and efficiently are no where near when is needed for a V8 if you are going from 255 to 360 you just added 100 CuIn.


Also before you go and spend your heard earned cash on an aluminum radiator... do a FABO search for "Overheating" then look ate the first 2 sentences "I just put in a new aluminum radiator and it is overheating" never (well almost never, 95% aluminum) will you find one that says "I just put in a new copper brass OEM style radiator and it is over heating"

there is much more to a radiator design than cores and material

Here is the video I was looking for

 
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Unfortunately to the best of my knowledge the OEM stuff has not been available for some time. Even if it was available I would then have the outlet on the wrong side.
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There are many OEM style radiators available from many sources.

Why are you thinking you need a /6 radiator?

The mounting would be the same if it was /6, small block or big block.

Only the modle year would make a diference.

You can get an year radiator with left or right side bottom outlet.

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That's the first I've heard of the many you speak of. I am not a radiator expert by any means. Although starting at 600 I would need to know what I am getting lol.She better run cool at them prices. Thanks
 
What motor do you have...is your lower water pump hose to the passenger side or driver. Most of the v8 ones I see come out on the driver side. I need one on the passenger. Or I'd have to run the bottom hose under the fan.
 
If you contact the real radiator manufacturers they can custom make you a rad to your specs.
 
ya it's been in our car now for about 4 months now and works great.just had to oblong the mounting holes a little bit and that was it.
 
Was your car originally a slant 6?.. my opening is only 19 5/8 wide. It doesn't look like that will fit..
 
cmac64dart said:
Hey I noticed the radiator you selected is wider and taller outside dimensions..have you tried it?
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Not yet. I haven't bought one yet, but will make it fit when I get it. The bottom of my radiator support is killed, so I will need to repair it. I am planning on making it out of thicker metal like the ones US Cartool makes. I can drop the radiator down at that time if needed, and make the lower part of the radiator support fit to wherever the radiator lands.
 
It's also quite cost/time efficient to have bottom outlet moved to opposite side, and positioned/angled as nec .
 
Yep, there is a reason Mopar and everyone else used copper for rads. They cool better!!!! Aluminum is just a cheap alternative that might work ok.....
 
Ok so I had an extra front frame rail that had the right radiator support. After measuring I realized that there is a 3 " difference between the v8 cars and the slant 6 in the radiator opening. Luckily the extra was a v8. So I'm going to cut out and put the new one in. This should give me the extra room needed for the larger radiator requirements if the v8. I thought I was finally done with metal work....Thanks all for your input
 
cmac64dart said:
Ok so I had an extra front frame rail that had the right radiator support. After measuring I realized that there is a 3 " difference between the v8 cars and the slant 6 in the radiator opening. Luckily the extra was a v8. So I'm going to cut out and put the new one in. This should give me the extra room needed for the larger radiator requirements if the v8. I thought I was finally done with metal work....Thanks all for your input
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never had to cut anything im my car.
 
Well my car has a 19 5/8 opening which is less than the outside dimensions of the v8 radiator..I'm not sure if all slant cars had this..but mine does...
 
were you looking at the champion rad that says v8 conversion?I'm guessing maybe your opening is a little smaller than mine.
 
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