Rally dash redo

-
1969383S said:
I popped my Door switches in and then connected the wiring from behind, tough but long pliers help, did not consider holding the button in! They are the 2 contact versions. The parking brake was too easy, adjust and plug in.
Click to expand...
I don't know the cutoff dates, but it makes sense that the two and three connector types might have to be done differently.

I didn't hold the button down, just prevent it from rotating with the body. That keeps the wire from twisting.

The access hole is really small. maybe in 68-9 it was made bigger?
upload_2020-4-20_20-7-1.png


I was able to take a peek at the connector with a mirror and small light through the access hole above.
upload_2020-4-20_20-10-43.png
 
Mattax said:
I don't know the cutoff dates, but it makes sense that the two and three connector types might have to be done differently.

I didn't hold the button down, just prevent it from rotating with the body. That keeps the wire from twisting.

The access hole is really small. maybe in 68-9 it was made bigger?
View attachment 1715512676

I was able to take a peek at the connector with a mirror and small light through the access hole above.
View attachment 1715512687
Click to expand...


Nope very tight. Pita at best.
 
Mattax said:
Did yours still have the plastic cover on the top?
View attachment 1715460438
Click to expand...
Year One has a supplier for these but they have not been in stock.
Found a post somewhere suggesting plastic milk cartons are made of a similar material.
Looks like that's what I'll be making one from.

Steve. Do you have any pictures of the instrument panel fronts?
Mine was not in good enough condition before restoration to know which areas where painted.
I want to make sure the only portion with aluminim suede is the lower flat portion.
upload_2020-5-12_18-39-6.png


They did a nice job, but I've got some touch up to do on the backside.
 
Mattax said:
67 diagram shows orange 18 gage powers radio illumination and the radio connector is the junction for the column shift illumination.
Radio power is direct from fuse.

Turn signal power comes from Flasher and flasher from accessory circuit splice.
Hazzard power is the white wire, which also goes to the brake light switch.

Work in Progress
View attachment 1715478431
Click to expand...

Discovered the routing in my non-A/C Barracuda is not quite the same as shown in the service manual diagram.
Wire from fuse box for Instrument lamps goes to the turn signal connector. Then it goes to a splice.
Tan wire for the right turn signal indicator in the dash does not come from the hazzard switch.
That wire comes from cavity V in the bulkhead connector.
upload_2020-5-12_18-54-55.png


upload_2020-5-12_19-1-14.png
 
Last edited:
Bezel looks beautiful Matt! I believe the only "suede" portion as you mentioned is the lower flat area.
What did that cost ya if I may ask?
Mattax said:
Year One has a supplier for these but they have not been in stock.
Found a post somewhere suggesting plastic milk cartons are made of a similar material.
Looks like that's what I'll be making one from.

Steve. Do you have any pictures of the instrument panel fronts?
Mine was not in good enough condition before restoration to know which areas where painted.
I want to make sure the only portion with aluminim suede is the lower flat portion.
View attachment 1715526869

They did a nice job, but I've got some touch up to do on the backside.
Click to expand...
 
4spdragtop said:
Bezel looks beautiful Matt! I believe the only "suede" portion as you mentioned is the lower flat area.
What did that cost ya if I may ask?
Click to expand...
$631 USD including return shipping, not including my cost to ship to them.
That price was for that panel as you see it, the glove box panel, and the two arm rests.

they weren't able to keep a mask on the backside, so I need to restore the flat black in front of the lamps. They said SEM's Color Coat will stick to the chrome but I still need to figure out exactly how I'm going to do this. I wore gloves when handling it so to keep it clean for painting. There's also a small repair i need to file down so it will fit flat. Kindof my fault - long story.
Overall, well worth it. Would do it again, although maybe I'd take the lenses out and reinstall myself.
 
Last edited:
4spdragtop said:
Bezel looks beautiful Matt! I believe the only "suede" portion as you mentioned is the lower flat area.
What did that cost ya if I may ask?
Click to expand...
Here's the glovebox panel. I assume the chromed script is correct? Again, can't tell from the condition before I sent it in. I thought it might have had black paint on either the sides or the face.
upload_2020-5-13_15-51-15.png
 
These scripts were molded of black plastic. We know the factory was capable of placing chrome on only the face surface, leaving the sides raw black. Looks like that's what they did, for 67 anyway. The chrome left there over time too leaving most of us with a all black script. I've got 1 67 script that still has a couple of small spots on the face of it. If there had even been any chrome on its side surfaces, some of it would have remained.
So much chrome makes text harder to read. LIGHTS WIPERS FLASHER and climate controller text was painted flat white, easier to read, matches the gauge screens.
My bezels are sent out for rechrome. All the text and the entire glove box script is/was chromed.
A stripped glove box script, face painted with a chrome pen, wouldn't shine quite like the fish but could look a little closer to OEM correct, for 67 anyway. I say that because I don't know if they deleted this little touch of chrome in 68/9. I have 8 or 10 of these scripts in a pill bottle. All of them have been in the chemical strip tank. Very few of them had any chrome on them.
 
RedFish said:
These scripts were molded of black plastic. We know the factory was capable of placing chrome on only the face surface, leaving the sides raw black. Looks like that's what they did, for 67 anyway. The chrome left there over time too leaving most of us with a all black script. I've got 1 67 script that still has a couple of small spots on the face of it. If there had even been any chrome on its side surfaces, some of it would have remained.
Click to expand...
I wish I took more photos. Not that mine was a great example to begin with.
Lighting isn't the best but, but it agrees with your observations.
upload_2020-5-14_11-40-9.png

Depending on how things go on my touch up on the backside, I may remove the script and paint the sides black. Unfortunately they used epoxy instead of heat staking or abs cement.
 
While we're talking about it. Here's the reverse of the bezels.
Original. The factory had flat black painted into very specific locations.
I do not know how important the off-white color is and how that plays into the diffusion of the light into the gauges.
It seems important enough that the metal lens holders are painted the same color.
upload_2020-5-14_11-52-36.png


Hence my comment about if I did it again, I would remove and install the lenses myself.
upload_2020-5-14_11-55-30.png

One possibility I'm looking at is to mask and spray with an airbrush using SEM Color Coat. This is not my area of knowledge or experience so it will depend on what I can buy and get help with locally. But the folks at Vacu-ornametal said that particular line of paint will adhere to the chrome, so that seems like the best way paint to use.
 
Mattax said:
While we're talking about it. Here's the reverse of the bezels.
Original. The factory had flat black painted into very specific locations.
I do not know how important the off-white color is and how that plays into the diffusion of the light into the gauges.
It seems important enough that the metal lens holders are painted the same color.
View attachment 1715527965

Hence my comment about if I did it again, I would remove and install the lenses myself.
View attachment 1715527966
One possibility I'm looking at is to mask and spray with an airbrush using SEM Color Coat. This is not my area of knowledge or experience so it will depend on what I can buy and get help with locally. But the folks at Vacu-ornametal said that particular line of paint will adhere to the chrome, so that seems like the best way paint to use.
Click to expand...
I'll look at the smaller text again. I thought it was painted white but maybe it was chrome on the face too. I always repaint the backside/illuminated cavity flat white after rechrome. I even have a sacrificed set of lens for masking ( 1 set was in sad shape anyway ).
Here's a point to consider.... Many owners have had these bezels rechromed. I've never seen one comment about what effect all that chrome has on the lighting. We look at it and assume a lighting engineer went to a lot of trouble to control and level the light.
The metal rings were once raw metal, then painted both white and black. If all these strange markings were simply from their fixturing, why not all black? I think we assume correctly. Put it together as is and light it up?
If it comes to your wanting or needing another glove box script, I have plenty of them.
 
RedFish said:
I'll look at the smaller text again. I thought it was painted white but maybe it was chrome on the face too. I always repaint the backside/illuminated cavity flat white after rechrome. I even have a sacrificed set of lens for masking ( 1 set was in sad shape anyway ).
Click to expand...
Have you found a certain type of paint works better on the chrome?

Here's a point to consider.... Many owners have had these bezels rechromed. I've never seen one comment about what effect all that chrome has on the lighting. We look at it and assume a lighting engineer went to a lot of trouble to control and level the light.
The metal rings were once raw metal, then painted both white and black. If all these strange markings were simply from their fixturing, why not all black? I think we assume correctly. Put it together as is and light it up?
If it comes to your wanting or needing another glove box script, I have plenty of them.
Click to expand...
I agree 100%. And I'm one of those that always loved the soft greenish illumination - even as a kid. I know some people prefer something brighter or a different look, and that's fine for them. Heck, once I get where there are no street lights, I turn the illumination down a little.
And thank you for the offer. We'll see how it goes in about two weeks.
 
Mattax said:
Have you found a certain type of paint works better on the chrome?
Click to expand...
No sir. I use whatever spray enamel is the right color. My flat white is Rustoleum, labelled 2X ultra cover. I don't know how well it bonds, haven't scratched at it. Like spray painting inside of any box, a lot of over spray/fog blows back at you. That seems extreme with this particular can of Rustoleum. Air brush would work better.
 
OK. If I get a quart of white and a quart of black paint with flattner, there will be a lot of ounces leftover even after wasting a bunch practicing with the airbrush. So if you can use it, I'll be glad to pass it along.
 
Mattax said:
OK. If I get a quart of white and a quart of black paint with flattner, there will be a lot of ounces leftover even after wasting a bunch practicing with the airbrush. So if you can use it, I'll be glad to pass it along.
Click to expand...
I don't know why you would buy quarts. If water based like Createx will stick to glass... Whatever you feel is necessary.
 
RedFish said:
I don't know why you would buy quarts. If water based like Createx will stick to glass... Whatever you feel is necessary.
Click to expand...
SEM Color Coat minimum AFAIK is a quart. About all I know is its a urethane paint. Going with it because I have some confidence its compatible with the chroming and what they already painted. That could change in the next couple weeks, but for now, as a new cook, prefer to stick with a known recipe.

It can be bought in spray cans, but not in flat.
 
yes the lens centers were chrome faced, flat black outsides, white inside, like the earlier models but 2 of these are quite large. Thus too much chrome and a reflection like fun house mirrors. So they cut very light ring pattern in them to knock it down. That was still too gaudy for my eye so my 67 centers are face painted argent. Only chrome showing is the tiny raised ring at their outer edge. These lens centers are all flat black outsides, still white inside for later models.
I went back and looked at my original 67 bezel. Its the only bezel I have here that hasn't been chemically stripped. The small text is just like shown in your pics. We have to assume it was once bright chrome. Interesting how wind wear would slowly remove the chrome from larger raised/exposed areas but didn't harm these smaller details so much.
I'm sitting here drinking coffee this morn' and think "dang it, I should have looked at the push button a/c controller while I was down there". Was the text carved into those acrylic buttons filled with black or white? I think white. If white, would that make difference in the surrounding rally bezels detail.
I'm pretty confident that the glove box script was chrome faced on black plastic. Otherwise it might have been cast with the bezel and left chrome just like the fish. Do your best to prove me wrong. TIA
 
Finally getting the instrument harness reinstalled in my '67.
Is this the correct position for the harness? with the branches for the key switch, wiper switch, and radio/lighter, etc all forward of the clip?
upload_2020-7-1_21-28-58.png
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top