Re-wiring the car. Who's wiring kit?

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make sure you have a kick *** set of wire crimpers too..

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002STTTI/?tag=joeychgo-20

may as well get the plug wire jaws too..:) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GTJA56/?tag=joeychgo-20


don't forget heat shrink. (good stuff not that pep boys garbage..) this double wall is nice stuff.. http://tiewraps.com/dualwall.html
electrical tape
tie down straps
all the connectors to rebuild your light sockets.
misc connectors to rebuild your stock sockets if need be. i rewired my wiper sockets and probably would have done the heater plugs if i was going to stick with the stock heater.
 
make sure you have a kick *** set of wire crimpers too..

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002STTTI/?tag=joeychgo-20

may as well get the plug wire jaws too..:) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GTJA56/?tag=joeychgo-20


don't forget heat shrink. (good stuff not that pep boys garbage..) this double wall is nice stuff.. http://tiewraps.com/dualwall.html
electrical tape
tie down straps
all the connectors to rebuild your light sockets.
misc connectors to rebuild your stock sockets if need be. i rewired my wiper sockets and probably would have done the heater plugs if i was going to stick with the stock heater.

cha-ching!!!! this **** gets expensive! ask me how i know. but you do get what you pay for.
 
#1 Take your entire stock harness out and put it in a box. forget about it. dont try to duplicate anything the factory did.

#2 Use the chevy wiper switch and hi/low beam switch. they fit in the factory dash and wiper switch hole. this allows you to use the chevy plugs that come with the kits. (your original plugs are most likely shot and thats why your replacing them)

#3 No matter what steering column you end up using. cut the factory plug off and use a molex style plug or another to your liking. they are better quality and just make everything easier.

#4 if you have the dash mounted ignition CAREFULLY take apart the factory plug and you can reuse it.

1. The stock harness is out. I don't plan to use anything as it's 40 years old. I'm hoping to find bulb sockets and such for when I do the re-wire.

2. I was planning to use the Chevy switches and such.

3. This is great info. After seeing what A.A. does with the picture above I'm planning to use what comes with the kit.

4. I'm hoping to use the column mounted ignition. Does this pose a problem.

Riddler
 
4. I'm hoping to use the column mounted ignition. Does this pose a problem.

just have to wire it correctly. i changed the actual plug but used the column ign switch when i did mine.
 
crimp AND solder, then heat shrink....

i double heat shrink'd every single connection in my car.

one more tip...... if you have two wires side by side that both need to be spliced. then stagger the spice so they are not side by side. that way if for some reason the shrink wrap fails they are next to wire insulation.
 
then stagger the spice so they are not side by side. that way if for some reason the shrink wrap fails they are next to wire insulation.

plus its a lot neater looking when done too.. :)
 
I used auto wire was really happy with it. it was for a gm and 100 dollars cheaper than for mopar easy install and I used my factory keys witch and put a push button start in the cigarette lighter hole in center console
 
I used American Auto in my dart, very happy with it. One thing to consider, is running a separate ground wire instead of grounding to the body. Almost all electrical issues are a result of bad grounds. I used a heavy (8 ga.) wire, start at the rt front headlight and splice in all your grounds all the way back to the fuse box. Do the same for the back.
 
I purchased an American Autowire Power Plus 20 new in box from ebay for $150. Plan is to use that and add some Ron Francis Synergy wiper and headlight switches.

Riddler
 
Riddler,
Again, sorry about my situation with that Painless kit. You'll be fine with the American Autowire though. They're a good system, especially at that price.


I purchased an American Autowire Power Plus 20 new in box from ebay for $150. Plan is to use that and add some Ron Francis Synergy wiper and headlight switches.

Riddler
 
Especially on these resto mods with new technology engines, ECMs, TCMs, etc., I treat the car as if it were all fiberglass. I use circular ground blocks that has a big terminal for large gauge ground wire to the battery, and a bunch of small terminals for all the various component grounds to connect. This way you don't have to rely on the unibody that may have poor spot welds, rust, etc as the ground circuit. Worth the extra cost of a couple of these blocks and some extra ground wiring...




I used American Auto in my dart, very happy with it. One thing to consider, is running a separate ground wire instead of grounding to the body. Almost all electrical issues are a result of bad grounds. I used a heavy (8 ga.) wire, start at the rt front headlight and splice in all your grounds all the way back to the fuse box. Do the same for the back.
 
Riddler,
Again, sorry about my situation with that Painless kit. You'll be fine with the American Autowire though. They're a good system, especially at that price.

Yeah I logged on to ebay for chits and giggles and saw one new in box at that price. So I jumped on it.

I also went online and printed out the instructions in color. Now I just need to save the Mopar to GM column wiring that's posted.

Riddler
 
I used the EZWiring kit, was pretty easy plus have different amount of circuits needed. I just needed the factory wiring schematic to match the steering column, did this on my 67 dart
 
Has anyone found any sites that sell connectors and such for the older mopars? I'd like to replace all the bulb sockets and such when I rewire the car.

Just not sure a good place to find them...

Same goes for the newer stuff. I'd love to find a pigtail for the 6.1L car alternator.

Riddler
 
Has anyone found any sites that sell connectors and such for the older mopars? I'd like to replace all the bulb sockets and such when I rewire the car.

Just not sure a good place to find them...

Same goes for the newer stuff. I'd love to find a pigtail for the 6.1L car alternator.

Riddler

Rockauto.com sells the bulb sockets for older cars.
 
Rockauto.com sells the bulb sockets for older cars.

Looks like Rockauto also has your 6.1 alternator connector. Well, for a 2008 challenger, not sure if they change year to year. May want to cross reference the actual alternator part number somewhere to see if it matches the model year you plan on using.


2008 DODGE CHALLENGER 6.1L V8 : Electrical-Connector : Alternator / Generator Connector Price
AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 1P1830
{#1198, 5161919AA}


Previous ImagePart ImageNext Image
$13.19


Mike
 
Here is what came with my Ron Francis wiring kit for colors of the wiring for the ignition switch and lighting.
They only use four of the wires for the ignition switch
 

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Rockauto.com sells the bulb sockets for older cars.

i think he wants the little wire ends for inside of the socket so he can rebuild the existing socket. a better way to do it in most cases in my opinion.


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