real world info on how to break in new clutch

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ddettloff

ddettloff

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Going to install new clutch pressure plate and bearing on 67 notch.
has 318 mild build and 4 speed. Years ago used to put one and beat it what is the proper way to break it in.
 
ddettloff said:
Going to install new clutch pressure plate and bearing on 67 notch.
has 318 mild build and 4 speed. Years ago used to put one and beat it what is the proper way to break it in.
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Stop and go driving before you beat on it. [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMMhDMwtQd8"]How to Properly Break-In a Clutch - with Centerforce - YouTube[/ame]
 
If it's just a standard style organic or semi-metallic type disc, i always just drove it normally for 10 or 20 take off's being careful to not slip/glaze it right off the bat and heat cycle it several times, and then just let it eat.

I never lost one early on that way. I think the trick is to take the time to make sure you're linkage is smooth operating and the free play is close from the git go.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
I don't know. I've always installed them, tested them for the right adjustment and proper function then beat the hell out of them. All in the same day.
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I did this with my Centerforce clutch too, works great :burnout:
 
That's what I wanted to hear what's the worst thing that can happen if I glaze it will just have to replace it. Who can drive { normal } for 500 miles I believe in the theory of build it beat it break it repeat process.
 
I didn't think about it, but most of us older hotrod guys never worried about a warranty, mainly because there wasn't one...lol. If that is a concern of yours, get in touch with the manufacturer and ask them for the requirements to comply..........

If not, just do it.....
View attachment imagesCAMS1FPF.jpg
 
ddettloff said:
That's what I wanted to hear what's the worst thing that can happen if I glaze it will just have to replace it. Who can drive { normal } for 500 miles I believe in the theory of build it beat it break it repeat process.
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First off, most of us Mopar guys ain't normal in the first place. Let alone drive normal!
 
Every car I built has been the same, bolt it together, drive it to the industrial park(about 2 miles) and test drive the crap out of it. never lost a clutch yet.
 
Bring the rpms to 8000 then side step the clutch. Repeat 10 times and your fine. Or double check all adjustments, a little easy test drive then play!
 
OldmanRick said:
I didn't think about it, but most of us older hotrod guys never worried about a warranty, mainly because there wasn't one...lol. If that is a concern of yours, get in touch with the manufacturer and ask them for the requirements to comply..........

If not, just do it.....
View attachment 1714651289
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nice pic rick the beak guys will be happy....
 
WRB426 said:
Bring the rpms to 8000 then side step the clutch. Repeat 10 times and your fine. Or double check all adjustments, a little easy test drive then play!
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Yea, that'll bring any weak spots in your drivetrain to the surface real quick. :D
 
Just like brakes, once around the block to make sure they work right and then..... SHOWTIME!
 
Put it in.....adjust it....get car off of jack stands....back out of driveway.....hold tach at 3k and side step it......always worked for me....drag racer I helped out had a stick.....break in was first burn out....never had a clutch fail...
 
Dont forget that a lot of cars are not plated, so cant put on any miles,, its trailered straight to the track,, then ... burn-outs.. lol
 
I wonder if "Dandy" Dick Landy, Herb McCandless, or Ronnie Sox ever broke in a clutch??? :D :burnout: :glasses7:....I bet not.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
I don't know. I've always installed them, tested them for the right adjustment and proper function then beat the hell out of them. All in the same day.
Click to expand...
my Stealth's (stock, original) clutch started slipping in 2nd and 3rd after I upped the power a bit- I was told "drive it like ya stole it" for a while and it would help. And it did lol.
 
WRB426 said:
Bring the rpms to 8000 then side step the clutch. Repeat 10 times and your fine. Or double check all adjustments, a little easy test drive then play!
Click to expand...
I tried this but the valves tend to float on a stocker before 8 grand. Truthfully I install them and thrash within the first 100 miles and have never had trouble. Side stepping is about 3 grand so I dont destroy anything.
 
I think you're gonna be fine. As I said earlier, get the adjustment right, run it thru the gears a few times, and I think you'll be good to go. :thumleft:

I sometimes wonder if driving these newer manual trans hydraulic systems is killing the newer/younger folks from really learning how the old school mechanical systems really work and feel.

I will admit at 54yrs old, i have never side stepped a clutch or shifted a stock trans without the clutch. I may have left a few thou or maybe as much as a hundredth on the table, but i have never lost a trans or clutch on anything with less then a 100k plus on it.

As far as racing, there are many ways of "blueprinting" the pedal adjustments to get you where you have minimal air gap for the launch, and just a tap of the pedal for a full throttle shift. Once you understand the geometry of your particular setup, you can get it spot on with a little time and work. I've done Z-bar mods and even duct taped a block of wood under the pedal...lol...too get things just right.

I suppose your using a general factory style street/strip type deal, so your regulation adjustment should be good to go...
 
OldmanRick said:
I think you're gonna be fine. As I said earlier, get the adjustment right, run it thru the gears a few times, and I think you'll be good to go. :thumleft:

I sometimes wonder if driving these newer manual trans hydraulic systems is killing the newer/younger folks from really learning how the old school mechanical systems really work and feel.

I will admit at 54yrs old, i have never side stepped a clutch or shifted a stock trans without the clutch. I may have left a few thou or maybe as much as a hundredth on the table, but i have never lost a trans or clutch on anything with less then a 100k plus on it.

As far as racing, there are many ways of "blueprinting" the pedal adjustments to get you where you have minimal air gap for the launch, and just a tap of the pedal for a full throttle shift. Once you understand the geometry of your particular setup, you can get it spot on with a little time and work. I've done Z-bar mods and even duct taped a block of wood under the pedal...lol...too get things just right.

I suppose your using a general factory style street/strip type deal, so your regulation adjustment should be good to go...
Click to expand...

I've got a few years on you at 58. In the early 70's when I use to race Chey, we would run Ford top loader 4speeds. We would make "crash" boxes out of them by grinding off every other tooth on the brass blocking rings. The results were that other than the launch, I never used the clutch till I was turning onto the return road. Back then i went from 10.80's to 10.65 ish with this simple trick.
 
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