Rear axle swap basic Qs: Safe lifting and jackstand points while pulling rear axle?

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MRGTX

MRGTX

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Another rookie question or two- these might be obvious to everyone but I just realized that I don't know. The story of my life! :D

As many times as I've had the rear end of the Dart off the ground, I've always blocked the front wheels, jacked it up by the differential and put the jackstands under the axle tubes. This is obviously not an option when pulling the whole axle assembly. What do you guys recommend for safe points for the jackstands?

I won't be starting the job until next week at the earliest but I started soaking the leaf spring bolts (which have presumably been in place since it left the assembly line in October of 1972. What else should I do to prep? Any words of advice are very, very welcome!
 
I personally would replace the U bolts. Just had our bought brand new 25 year old Dakota safety inspected and the inspector found one of the U bolts broken and the other 3 pretty rusty. . If you choose to replace them, just cut them off and save a bunch of time trying to removed rusty, seized nuts. Just my opinion.
 
Jackstand on both sides, to the front of where the rear springs are attached. It is part of the Uni body, and more or less flat. Tough to explain, I will try to get a picture if you need.
 
MRGTX said:
Another rookie question or two- these might be obvious to everyone but I just realized that I don't know. The story of my life! :D

As many times as I've had the rear end of the Dart off the ground, I've always blocked the front wheels, jacked it up by the differential and put the jackstands under the axle tubes. This is obviously not an option when pulling the whole axle assembly. What do you guys recommend for safe points for the jackstands?

I won't be starting the job until next week at the earliest but I started soaking the leaf spring bolts (which have presumably been in place since it left the assembly line in October of 1972. What else should I do to prep? Any words of advice are very, very welcome!
Click to expand...
I'm glad you asked!
 
MRGTX said:
Another rookie question or two- these might be obvious to everyone but I just realized that I don't know. The story of my life! :D

As many times as I've had the rear end of the Dart off the ground, I've always blocked the front wheels, jacked it up by the differential and put the jackstands under the axle tubes. This is obviously not an option when pulling the whole axle assembly. What do you guys recommend for safe points for the jackstands?

I won't be starting the job until next week at the earliest but I started soaking the leaf spring bolts (which have presumably been in place since it left the assembly line in October of 1972. What else should I do to prep? Any words of advice are very, very welcome!
Click to expand...
when I did it, I had a lift, that said, i have done it without a lift as well. Simply place the jackstands in front of the front spring hanger underneath the frame rail and a 2nd set behind the axle, also on the frame rail and you'll be fine.
 
You dont need the second set, lift by the diff, High, then place jackstands as I stated, lower the jack on to the stands, before you get jack all the way down, remove the lower shock nuts, and pull the shocks off the lower mounts. then lower the rest of the way. .
 
Mopar Tim said:
You dont need the second set, lift by the diff, High, then place jackstands as I stated, lower the jack on to the stands, before you get jack all the way down, remove the lower shock nuts, and pull the shocks off the lower mounts. then lower the rest of the way. .
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yeah probably not, but I always seem to do stuff the hard, over kill way :lol:
 
Mopar Tim said:
You dont need the second set, lift by the diff, High, then place jackstands as I stated, lower the jack on to the stands, before you get jack all the way down, remove the lower shock nuts, and pull the shocks off the lower mounts. then lower the rest of the way. .
Click to expand...
And of course lots of other things, like remove the wheels!!!:lol:
 
Mopar Tim said:
Jackstand on both sides, to the front of where the rear springs are attached. It is part of the Uni body, and more or less flat. Tough to explain, I will try to get a picture if you need.
Click to expand...

Thanks! That makes sense as this is a load bearing point on the chassis anyway. When I was on the creeper spraying the bolts with the penetrating oil, I though that looked like the proper spot but I know better than to just guess when it comes to supporting the weight of the car. :D


Mopar Tim said:
And of course lots of other things, like remove the wheels!!!:lol:
Click to expand...

Ha! Will do. While I planned to (seemed like a good idea to remove ~110lbs of weight from the assembly before unbolting it! ) I gladly accept any advice, no matter how obvious.

toolmanmike said:
I'm glad you asked!
Click to expand...

I appreciate that a guy can ask questions like this on FABO and not get laughed at!

Everything I've done on my car, I learned the hard/expensive way so I welcome any chance to alter that pattern. :)
 
Mopar Tim said:
You dont need the second set, lift by the diff, High, then place jackstands as I stated, lower the jack on to the stands, before you get jack all the way down, remove the lower shock nuts, and pull the shocks off the lower mounts. then lower the rest of the way. .
Click to expand...

What he said and....
1. After it is secure, disconnect brake flex hose and parking brake cables.
2. Support rear end with floor jack just enough to take the weight off.
3. Unbolt the lower shock nuts and move the shocks out of the way. Or just remove them.
4. Unbolt the rear spring shackles at the frame. 2 screws per side. (9/16" hex)
5. Lower the rear end til the wheels rest on the ground.
6. Unbolt the front spring hangers, 4 screws per side. (9/16" hex)
7. Roll the rear end housing with the springs still attached from under the car. (Rolling floor jack)
8. Much easier to finish the disassembly when everything is out from underneath the car. You can support the housing on each side with jack stands. The 1/2-20 nuts on the end of the u-bolts are locking type and are difficult to get off. (Anal Mopar engineers) I've found that once they start coming off, I keep going all the way. If they cool down when they are partially off they tend to lock on very tightly. Impact wrench with deep well 3/4" IMPACT socket here. I prefer to save the original u-bolts if they are still in good shape. Generic aftermarket ones usually don't look correct. If I think I'll be removing the rear end again, sometimes I'll substitute grade 5 or 8 hex nuts and thin jam nuts.

I've done this by myself several times.
 
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Thanks to all for the advice. Following the suggestions here, the old axle came out without difficulty.

As usual, I’ll admit to being an unconfident/inexperienced mechanic more than an incompetent one. Nevertheless, the input was very helpful.

Quick question about brake lines;

My 7.25” had a junction that was attached to one of then axle tubes via a flexible line. From there, a metal hard line went to each drum.

My new axle is different. It has a 1’ or so flexible line extending from each caliper leading to a fitting secured to a bracket on the axle tube on each side.

Is there a standard fitting that I should use to split the main brake line to attach to this different kind of setup?

I didn’t think to take clear pictures last time I was in the garage but I tried to zoom in on these details from pics I snapped when the new axle arrived and when the old one came out...

Thanks!!

6C3ACFCE-751A-4C6D-8FD4-64004E92D9C8.jpeg
BABA25A0-807E-4F67-8331-9094C2781CF3.jpeg
 
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So maybe one of these....
RNB-785-436_ml.jpg


then extension hoses from each side?

I realize this isn't rocket surgery but I have to imagine that there's a standard procedure for this and I'd rather not introduce extra points of failure if they can be avoided. Thanks again for any suggestions.
 
MRGTX said:
So maybe one of these....
View attachment 1715137629

then extension hoses from each side?

I realize this isn't rocket surgery but I have to imagine that there's a standard procedure for this and I'd rather not introduce extra points of failure if they can be avoided. Thanks again for any suggestions.
Click to expand...
No. You need the right T valve for it. I may actually have one in a box you can have. I'll look tonight
 
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