Rear drums too tight

-
E

ESP47

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 3, 2009
Messages
2,521
Reaction score
1,475
Location
Sacramento, CA
68 Barracuda. 10" drums on an 8 1/4" rear. New shoes and hardware. E brake disconnected at the adjuster. Brake adjusters threaded as far in as they'll go.

The drums are tight on both sides. I can get the drums on but they are tighter than I would ever want them and that is with the hardware adjusted as far in as possible. Any ideas what could be happening here?

IMG_20230911_182604666_HDR.jpg


IMG_20230911_182659728.jpg
 
Things to look at. Look closely at the top pin where the shoes rest. Make sure they are all the way against the pin. Sometimes they will get hung up there. They can also get hung up on the ridge around the circumference of the backing plate between the pads the shoes ride on and the outside lip. Check the parking brake strut that it is installed right. Sometimes one slot in one end will not be seated and hold the shoes off. It can fool you so look. Lastly, MEASURE the shoes in the center front to back. Make SURE they are 10" shoes and the parts store didn't give you the wrong ones.
 
It may also be that the cylinders are gummed up internally and not returning fully
 
were the pads where the shoes rest against the backing plate lubricated? Were these pads on the backing plates cleaned during the brake job as corrosion may have formed ridges based on the shoe location with worn shoes? Is something in the hydraulic system keeping the wheel cylinders from retracting completely?
 
The shoes maybe for oversize drums, & your drums still standard size [ not machined? ].
The shoe material near the yw spring does look quite thick, but only a pic.
 
You are missing the oval retaining washer at the top anchor. The self adjuster cable attaches to the anchor first, then the two large springs, not spring, cable and spring.
 
The parking brake strut does not look like it is installed correctly on the right side. The web of the shoe should sit in the slot of the strut
 
Have you verified the e brake cable is not hanging up?
All listed above also are good points.
Brakes can be a tough item to diagnose with a single picture and not in person.
If you are having troubles is anyone local you can ask who can actually see the work and knows brakes verify what is done?
I typically remove both drums but even after 35 years of doing brakes allways leave one side to verify it’s correct before I jump to the other.
Syleng1
 
All your components are new. Did you compare the new to old adjuster?? Yours looks long, judging by the contact made by the self adjusting arm.
 
Strut bar doesnt look mounted properly. Look by yellow spring.
Also as mentioned I believe there should be some type of washer on top post
 
4spdragtop said:
Strut bar doesnt look mounted properly. Look by yellow spring.
Also as mentioned I believe there should be some type of washer on top post
Click to expand...
Think you nailed it. The forks of the bar must slide fully into the slot in the shoes, and they don't look like they engage.
 
Make sure the shoes are against the top anchor pin, and the adjuster ends are seated all the way in their respective slots in the shoe. If they are, all the other parts mentioned aren't going to change the outside diameter of the shoes. As Lefty mentioned, make sure the new adjuster is the same length as the old one. I also agree that you're missing the anchor washer. It goes on the anchor first, then the cable, then the springs. Also, make sure the cable guide is fully seated in it's hole when the spring hook is installed. It's common for it to fall out in the process. Rotate it so it doesn't rub on anything when the shoes and cable move. A little bit of lube in the guide slot will help with cable life too. If it still too tight, I'd either try some other shoes and/or adjuster (try your old one to see if that's the problem) or just file the adjuster or shoe slot a bit so the adjuster seats in farther.
 
Thanks for all the replies guys.

I drove it home a couple years ago and started tearing it apart. The brakes worked well enough to get me home and I don't recall it being difficult to get the drums off. Unfortunately I don't have any of the hardware that was originally installed.

So the oval retaining washer is on the top anchor. It's just camoflauged back there. The washer went on first, then the cable, then yellow spring, then black spring last. The shoes seat flush against the top anchor.

Backing plates are lubricated.

The e brake strut was fully seated in the shoe slots as I was testing this. I verified and was paying attention that it was fully seated as I was doing the work. I think it popped out due to whatever fiddling I was doing before I took the picture. The lever for the e brake is as far toward the rear as I could get it. To the point where the hold down pin just barely makes it past.

I also test fitted it without the adjuster even installed at the bottom and it didn't help my cause. I'll still check and see if I can verify if the adjuster is the correct length.

I'm thinking the issue is either wrong shoes (need to try and figure out which ones I bought from rockauto) or the wheel cylinders aren't retracting completely. I rebuilt the cylinders and honed them out, which was my first time ever attempting that. Also bent and flared the rear lines for the first time. I'm thinking it's gotta be one of those issues because I've done rear drum brake shoes and hardware a dozen times in the past on various A bodies with zero issues.
 
If the wheel cylinder piston were stuck out, or the e-brake was on, the top of the shoes wouldn't hit the anchor. It used to be that you could get brake shoes that needed to be arced to the drum diameter. They came with a bit more friction material. I haven't seen those in decades though, so that's pretty unlikely.
 
His self-adjusters and springs are later and a bit different than yours.
 
Figured it out. Turned out to be the wheel cylinders were out too far. I cracked the bleeders and the drums fit like normal after.

I must have been working under the dash or something while I was waiting for the paint on the drums to dry and accidentally tapped the brake pedal. Stupid me if that was the case.

Appreciate all the help.
 
ESP47 said:
Figured it out. Turned out to be the wheel cylinders were out too far. I cracked the bleeders and the drums fit like normal after.

I must have been working under the dash or something while I was waiting for the paint on the drums to dry and accidentally tapped the brake pedal. Stupid me if that was the case.

Appreciate all the help.
Click to expand...
Make CERTAIN your master is properly returning and relieving at the ports (bottom of the reservoir)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top