Correct 12 inches would crab down the road noticeablycouldn’t be swapped front to back could they?
Correct 12 inches would crab down the road noticeablycouldn’t be swapped front to back could they?
Hardly any companies have the equipment to heat and roll the eyes. Then yes after heating the steel needs to be rehardened by quenching,Can it be rolled back with some heat, or do I just live with it, shim the other side, or replace it?
I bought ss springs from summit racing November 2017 Arlington texas brand new 105.00 each. Had them in stock.Pretty sure heating them up hot enough to bend the steel easily enough, would alter the metallurgy of the spring steel and would do "bad things". Get a new set from Buy Quality Automotive Leaf Springs, Coil Springs and Suspension Parts for your Classic or Antique Auto and be done with it. They are good and relatively cheap to get the right set of springs under your car.
Or "Fridays here and it's the end of the shift" lolOne of our members had a diff that'd been shortened to A-Body.
His pass side wheel was toed in and thus forward by over 1/2 inch IIRC.
"String" the car, Google it, a quick, accurate trackside form of checking axle/wheel alignment.
Depending on the day of the week your car was put together, could determine how accurately it was assembled. Just saying. lol . Monday morn car ?
Very cool infoFront at minimum. Any spring shop will have 'em, maybe dealers or parts stores too, or you can make your own. Rear depends on what your using the car for.
The clamps are very important for reducing lateral movement within the pack (side to side) and on the front half help make it act more like a link.
The concept behind the SS springs for drag racing is when the axle housing rotates, the front segment of the spring pushes up on the chassis (along with the pinion snubber). This maximizes weight on the slick. Even more so as the front end rises with the back. The more downforce on the slick, the higher traction. Anyway they get more freedom of the spring for lifting by removing the rear clamps.
The initial pinion angle and shackle angle are important when doing this. They're always important, but more so.
Original SS springs are not equal left and right. Different arches, different spring ratio (the amount of spring rate in the front segment vs the rear) and different number of leaves. You may have someone's home made project. ???
I would get some measurements off of the frame before concluding its the springs. Fender sheetmetal and driver's perception who is following you are subject to too many variables. measure from the subframes and on the axle, measure to the backing plate or something like that.
1973 Service Bulletin with diagram illustrating a misperception of dog tracking.
http://www.hamtramck-historical.com/images/TSBs/1973/02-04-73C page1.jpg
http://www.hamtramck-historical.com/images/TSBs/1973/02-04-73C page2.jpg
Spring and shock rates have all to do with good suspension. However, tires make the difference in overall grip. It's not the preference of most, but comparing your average 245 ish radial ta to 275 Rival S for instance is worlds if not dimensions in grip.