Rear end drain plug

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Backally

Backally

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drill a hole in the bottom, tap it 1/8 NPT and install a brass drain plug.

Saw this in another thread but didn't want to hijack. When you put the plug in since it won't bottom out, do you put thread sealer or Loctite on it to keep it from working loose? Got my rear out now and was thinking that would be a good idea. Also, why a brass plug? Couldn't you just use a 3/8 or 1/2 inch bolt, cut off so it didn't stick up into the housing?

Thx
 
Very good idea,i did the same thing to my 8.75,its pipe threads so it tapers to stop from going in to far (unless you over do it taping it then yer screwed!) id also use steel plug the brass strips out to dam easy if it gets stuck in there.
 
8.75. Ok, didn't know about the pipe threads tapering but that makes sense.
 
Brass plug is soft and wont corrode, bolt will never seal. Use a female hex head, wont round off like a square plug head. Pipe tape /dope whatever you use to aid in removal. Plugs should be mandatory on auto trans pans, messy job without them!
 
pishta said:
Brass plug is soft and wont corrode, bolt will never seal. Use a female hex head, wont round off like a square plug head. Pipe tape /dope whatever you use to aid in removal. Plugs should be mandatory on auto trans pans, messy job without them!
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Pop rivets work well.
Shave the head off and knock the rest into the pan for draining, then pop a new one in and a little RTV on the inside over the end for assurance of no leaks and slap her back on.

It takes a little longer to drain obviously, but it's a lot easier than adding a drain plug that wont leak.
 
I use a 1/4 inch bung and pipe plug, I just think the housing is to thin to tap
 
Why could you not just drill a hole then weld a nut over it and install a short bolt with a washer like is on the bolt for the oil pan to insure that it seals?
 
Backally said:
drill a hole in the bottom, tap it 1/8 NPT and install a brass drain plug.

Saw this in another thread but didn't want to hijack. When you put the plug in since it won't bottom out, do you put thread sealer or Loctite on it to keep it from working loose? Got my rear out now and was thinking that would be a good idea. Also, why a brass plug? Couldn't you just use a 3/8 or 1/2 inch bolt, cut off so it didn't stick up into the housing?

Thx
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I did. I used a 1/4 inch aluminum pipe thread plug. Drilled and tapped, apply some Locktite and haven't had an issue.

Just be sure and offset it away from the ring gear.
 
I like to weld in a pipe bung then a short piece of 1 1/2" - 2" around it so the floor jack won't touch the plug.
 
I had no problem tapping the bottom of mine. I used a stainless allen hex plug to it sits nearly flush with the bottom of the housing so it doesn't interfere with the floor jack. Use a little pipe dope on it to seal it and your good to go
 
Lots of good ideas guys. Looks like I need to head down to the hardware store tomorrow and see what's on hand.

Thanks!
 
Backally said:
Lots of good ideas guys. Looks like I need to head down to the hardware store tomorrow and see what's on hand.

Thanks!
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IF you don't go with something flush, at least make sure it's solid, I kinda like the idea above about putting a ring around the plug to protect it from the jack.

My plug is flush, heck you can't even see it unless you look real hard, so all I do is use a rag on the jack when under the pumpkin.
 
One of the real $$$ benefits of a drain plug is you can drain into a clean container and reuse the lube. A pumpkin swap for a quick gear change to run your car at the track only costs you a gasket. Some folks run full synthetic gear lube and that stuff is expensive.
 
Looks like the drivers side would keep you away from the ring gear.
 

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AJ/FormS said:
And sucking the oil out would still leave all the caked-up gunk down in the bottom.
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So would a drain plug. If "gunk" is to the point where it's caked on the only way to get it out would be take the tear apart and wipe it out.
 
AJs busted.

I was thinking more along the lines of those evacuators typically available to us "back-yarders" with the teensy little hoses designed to pass through the dipstick tubes. You know the ones that seem to take forever to do their job. Well they will hardly pass hot gearoil through them , never mind the filings that typically accumulate in the rears. And the plastic type hose is too stiff to really get down into the bottom where the gunk accumulates.
Now, the drainplug, at the bottom, will freely pass the hot oil and any filings that are in suspension. Much better idea, IMHO. My housing has been set-up to do just that. And if I see a tooth-chip come out, Im tearing it apart. In bygone years it was common for me to swap out diffs at the drop of a hat. I was playing. At one time I had pretty much every ratio, most SureGripped, TracLocked, or spooled, on stand-by ready to go, from 2.76 to 5.13. I got to be pretty good at swapping those.
 
I installed a drain plug with a protective ring for the jack as well as a filler cap near the top. That's not only to fill, but to visually inspect the teeth as well. A larger drain plug will allow some larger teeth pieces to come out and a magnetic drain plug would be a plus.
 

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Locomotion said:
I installed a drain plug with a protective ring for the jack as well as a filler cap near the top. That's not only to fill, but to visually inspect the teeth as well. A larger drain plug will allow some larger teeth pieces to come out and a magnetic drain plug would be a plus.
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I like it, I may copy that on the rear I'm gathering parts for.

Myron, what did you use for that top cap??
 
Thanks. Housing is out in the garage, but I believe the cap and weld-in bung came from Mark Williams. The allen-head drain plug & bung may have also. The protective ring may be roll bar tubing. I got the parts and Gary's Driveline here locally welded it all in.
 
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