rear end relocation

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birdrockbomb

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Posted this on another Mopar site and got no response.....

I have a '64 Barracuda that I'm about to put my 8 & 3/4 under. I'd like to move it to the rear by an inch in order to gain tire clearance at the front of the wheel well and 1/4 panel. HD A body springs to be used. Mancini's site lists part # MREAR0104 (Spring Hanger Set E body with Super Stock springs). Will this do the trick? By my guesstimate the A and E body bolt pattern for the four mounting studs is the same. I'm guessing that an issue may be that that the existing spring eye hole moves will move the rear 2" and I may need to drill another one. SS spring front segment are A body stock 20" vs. e body 22" right?

If this hanger isn't the correct solution what is? Has anyone ever used a spacer to do the same? Will the stock shackles have enough play to absorb the extra inch and still provide good geometry?
 
Man good post, sorry I do not know? Have you asked at the bigblockdart site? I would think this has been done. Most guys want a shorter base for weight transfer etc. But I know exactly what you are talking about, 245s should fit fine if you can get it back about an inch.

I think what you are saying is correct, but I have not done this mod on my 64 Dart. Will stay posted to see what you come out with.
 
I understand the hangers changing ride heigth as described. I can't see the center of the wheel moving rearward as in changing wheelbase measurment. OK a 1/4 inch maybe.
 
I just clicked a dang site yesterday that has the hangers drilled with the front drilled with an extra hole moved for this very exact reason.

"Centering the wheel in the housing to gain clearance for a bigger tire."

Once I find that site again, I'll post it up. The rear shackle issue sholdn't be a bad one. It will move that point back a bit. I don't think it will be a big problem.

Will your springs be bent with a 1 inch over arc?
 
I just moved the rear back by drilling a new hole in the spring mount that bolts to the spring. I noved it back 3/4 of an inch to just centre the tire better.


The wheel looks better in the wheel well.

spring7s.JPG


tire2.jpg
 
I concur on drilling the hole in the spring pad on the rearend. Simple solution and with any luck the driveline should have enough slip that you won't need to extend it. Of course if you're a welder you might want to put an extension on the spring pad for less stress on the pad. I don't think that is really necessary but it depends on the way you drive it. Good luck. Mike
 
I'd go by way of a longer front spring hanger. Strong sturdy and not a mod of how it should be sitting on the perch and spring.
 
oldguy said:
I concur on drilling the hole in the spring pad on the rearend. Simple solution and with any luck the driveline should have enough slip that you won't need to extend it. Of course if you're a welder you might want to put an extension on the spring pad for less stress on the pad. I don't think that is really necessary but it depends on the way you drive it. Good luck. Mike
Click to expand...

Wouldnt hhis angle your u bolts ? wont work Ive got 3 sets of spring boxes give me your measurement and i,ll check what i have to see if the spring hole is further back fron the front hanger mounting point. im thinking a b body hanger for ss springs will work
 
Nope! Doesn't angle the u bolts. The bottom shock mount is the only thing it affects aside from the length of the drive line. Since we're only talking 1 inch here it really doesn't affect the shocks that much. It's pretty simple and will work. There are about as many ways to do it as there are guys doing it so what ever makes YOU comfortable is the way to go. Good luck, which ever you choose. Mike
 
WHY NOT>>>>>

Use longer front hanger bolts with an aluminum block spacer? It would be as strong or stronger than the superstock hanger and an easy fix..... There is plenty of room in the rear shackle travel to cover 1" without affecting spring arc.... My $0.02
 
you move the spring pad center hole back all the u bolt holes would need to move equal or the axle tube will run over the u bolts as they are the exact width of the tubeand they arent moving . what am i not seeing?
 
daredevil said:
you move the spring pad center hole back all the u bolt holes would need to move equal or the axle tube will run over the u bolts as they are the exact width of the tubeand they arent moving . what am i not seeing?
Click to expand...
You move it back the same amount as the spring pad so it all lines up. It still bolts down the same, once you have all the U bolts tightened down you can't tell its been moved.
 
By moving the rear back in that fashion, your positioning it at a different spot on the leafs. Adding more front section. Overcentered.

This can't be good or productive.

Move the rear backwards with longer hangers.
 
rumblefish360 said:
By moving the rear back in that fashion, your positioning it at a different spot on the leafs. Adding more front section. Overcentered.

This can't be good or productive.
Move the rear backwards with longer hangers.
Click to expand...

Hey rumble, do you have any pics of this method?
Tried searching the site but came up empty handed. When I asked the guy at the spring shop he said an inch either would not make any difference. He said especially on a Chrysler product going back a bit wouldn't make any difference as Chrysler cars sit real forward on the leafs. Usaually about the 1/3 mark. He said as long as I bolt it all down tightly and make sure the U bolts are straight up and down and watch my drive line things should be good.
I was moving my springs inboard so I figured that I would move it back at the same time.
However if there is an easier way I sure would like to try it next time.
Thanks
 
Wow, Lots of good discussion here. I'll probably go the route of fabbing a spacer out of 1" aluminum stock. Longer studs obviously. Seems like the least intrusive on Ma Mopar engineering. I'll post pictures and comment later. Thank you all for the info.
 
Hey Keith. I have gone through this site and my computers history twice looking for this extended front spring hanger.
Perhaps a B/E body front spring hanger for S/S springs would do?

When you move the springs inboard, you'll have to THINK and measure twice before you cut. I'll have to pass the buck on any info on inboard spring relocation work to the been there and done that since I have not.
 
I have a'65 Barracuda. I moved the rear back 3/4" It centers the wheel perfect. 255/60-15 on a 15x7. I used offset spring hangersfor side clearance and made a spacer for the front hanger. I used the renforcing plates on the front from mancini racing. They worked graet as a template for the spacers. I knocked out the hangers bolts with a hammer. Good luck finding 3/4" longer ones. I used regular grade 8 bolts and welded them fast. Alittle work but came out great. The titre realy fills the wheel well nice.
 
What about the gas tank? When riding level the rearend is not too far in front of the tank. Something to consider.
 
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