rear ends to choose from?
- Thread starter project360
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Again, Go Dana...Go Home...
Hay looks good, here is mine.
Maybe you won't like me anymore. LOL
View attachment 67.jpg
Kenny
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
I AGREE and I used to own a sixpack RR with a Dana 60 under it.
There's been some discussion about whether a Dana 60 REALLY is all that much stronger than a Ford 9", and a Ferd has the advantage that if you have a street/ strip car, you can build a spare center and have nice high street gears and another with optimum strip gears. It just doesn't take that long to swap them.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
WHAT ABSOLUTE NONSENSE Hot rodders have been adapting parts since there existed more than two types of automobiles!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You come on here and chastise us for swapping evil parts, yet you admit that you use a couple yourself!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You don' think that Chibbie guys used to lust after "our" Dana 60's?
Maybe you forgot, "back in the day" all those old coupe gassers that ran things like an 'Olds rear axle, before Dana's came along?
Enough, already. Besides, stick this in yer hat:
LOTS of parts of cars are NOT "pure Ford" or "pure Chrysler."
Dana is ?????!!!!!!!???? SPICER CORPORATION and has been used in (cough, gag) INTERNATIONAL CORNBINDERS. They've been used in (PUKE) FORD TRUCKS. Why they've been factory installed in the deadly, unwanted, and unmentionable Gee eM products
Ever owned a Mopar with a dual point distributor? Who do you think made them? It sure as heck wasn't Ma
So maybe, just maybe, whatever brand you pick might not be all that "pure" from the factory, eh?
Popular swaps back in the day were things like Oldsmobile rear ends in front of Caddy engines. I've seen Camaro's with 8-3/4 rears installed.
I was thinking about this thread when I was downloading pictures of my Swinger I'm building and thought you may want to see my old school traction bars I built. I made a set back in the 70's much like these. That is the 8 3/4 with the 741 case.
View attachment 69 Build 007.jpg
Kenny.
View attachment 69 Build 007.jpg
Kenny.
72ScampTramp
Scamp Tramp
Unless I missed it maybe it would be easier to tell us what your plans are for the car then we could better help you select a rear that will work for you. What are your driving plans do you plan on racing or just a street cruiser?
8 3/4 nice to have but not always needed not to mention can you find one local and how much will you need to put into it?
Dana 60 Do you feel you need one? Not to mention they are HEAVY.
Ford 9" By far the most popular rearend used in street rods and even drag cars. Cheap easy to find and tough.
8.8 One nice thing about these is most Explorer 8.8 have 3.73 gears and limited slip thes CAN be strong rears but seen alot of mustangs blow these up on the starting line.
Ford 8" Not as common and there is way more out there for the 9"
8 1/4 Solid rear for a mild small block. Heck there is a guy on Big Block Dart in his 2nd season running one of these in his Big block Duster drag car.
And remember anything not mopar you will probably need to have cut if your looking for something to bolt in place 8 3/4 or 8 1/4. If your cutting either way I would find a cheap 9" there is lots of aftermarket stuff out there and less expensive then 8 3/4 depending on what and where you are looking.
There is nothing ever wrong with building the car the way YOU want it. Regardless of what anyone says. It may not be mopar politically correct but who cares are they paying for your build?
8 3/4 nice to have but not always needed not to mention can you find one local and how much will you need to put into it?
Dana 60 Do you feel you need one? Not to mention they are HEAVY.
Ford 9" By far the most popular rearend used in street rods and even drag cars. Cheap easy to find and tough.
8.8 One nice thing about these is most Explorer 8.8 have 3.73 gears and limited slip thes CAN be strong rears but seen alot of mustangs blow these up on the starting line.
Ford 8" Not as common and there is way more out there for the 9"
8 1/4 Solid rear for a mild small block. Heck there is a guy on Big Block Dart in his 2nd season running one of these in his Big block Duster drag car.
And remember anything not mopar you will probably need to have cut if your looking for something to bolt in place 8 3/4 or 8 1/4. If your cutting either way I would find a cheap 9" there is lots of aftermarket stuff out there and less expensive then 8 3/4 depending on what and where you are looking.
There is nothing ever wrong with building the car the way YOU want it. Regardless of what anyone says. It may not be mopar politically correct but who cares are they paying for your build?
inkjunkie
Well-Known Member
Your car, put want you want in it. Like I said the 9" housing was more or less given to me, I would have used it anyway, never been a fan of a Dana. And as far as the trans that will be in my car, I know several people do not agree with it, but such is life...my car, I am going to do what I want to it. If it were a numbers matching car it would be different, but it was a /6 with a 3 on the tree.....Come to think of it the only reason I have the Dart is because I just could not bring myslef to cutting up my 64 Fairlane....
9" in stock form are not close to a Dana 60 in the strength department. Even the nodular case 9" are lacking without a good pinion support, etc. Factory parts, Dana is better.
Dana 60 weighs about 30# more than a comparable 8.75 rear.
What type of budget are you dealing with? SBP or LBP? Plan on buying new wheels or using your existing?
The axle length isn't a big deal unless you want to use your current wheels. Buying new wheels, find some with proper backspace to accommodate the axle length. Mopar A Bodies have a bit of an issue with the housing end interfering with U bolts if a rear is shortened too much.
Cutting a housing down, get your wheel and tire combo, set them in the wells, measure mount surface to mount surface, and cut to that length.
Moving the perches in using a .75-.80 offset perch kit?
BBP find a 66-67 or 68-70 B body 8.75 rear. They are available pretty complete for anywhere from 100-250 out here in the west. I have a 68-70 B rear, too bad you aren't closer.
My 2 cents stick with a mopar style rear. If you are going to cut something down, starting from scratch, put a Dana 60 under it. It will cost the same to do as a 8.75, maybe less if you get the gears/sure grip in the rear to start with.
Dana 60 weighs about 30# more than a comparable 8.75 rear.
What type of budget are you dealing with? SBP or LBP? Plan on buying new wheels or using your existing?
The axle length isn't a big deal unless you want to use your current wheels. Buying new wheels, find some with proper backspace to accommodate the axle length. Mopar A Bodies have a bit of an issue with the housing end interfering with U bolts if a rear is shortened too much.
Cutting a housing down, get your wheel and tire combo, set them in the wells, measure mount surface to mount surface, and cut to that length.
Moving the perches in using a .75-.80 offset perch kit?
BBP find a 66-67 or 68-70 B body 8.75 rear. They are available pretty complete for anywhere from 100-250 out here in the west. I have a 68-70 B rear, too bad you aren't closer.
My 2 cents stick with a mopar style rear. If you are going to cut something down, starting from scratch, put a Dana 60 under it. It will cost the same to do as a 8.75, maybe less if you get the gears/sure grip in the rear to start with.
project360
Well-Known Member
thanks for the insight...
the car is street and strip, plan on 3500 stall and 4.11s, will have new wheels and tires, and custom relo. the springs 1.5 in. inward... 8 3/4 out here are over 1000 buks in stock form. the 8.8s here are plentiful but sound like a lot of chopping to make center. ive been looking for a 9in. or 8.25 with little luck. and i cant order wheels untill the rear is done. what a delima.
the car is street and strip, plan on 3500 stall and 4.11s, will have new wheels and tires, and custom relo. the springs 1.5 in. inward... 8 3/4 out here are over 1000 buks in stock form. the 8.8s here are plentiful but sound like a lot of chopping to make center. ive been looking for a 9in. or 8.25 with little luck. and i cant order wheels untill the rear is done. what a delima.
project360
Well-Known Member
just came across an 8.8....looks like a good deal 300 $$
59 in. from a mustang 5.0 GT car
4.10s
31 spline moser axles
31 spline carrier, new clutches (mustang trac loc)
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and another 8.8 for 150 $$
59 inch.
2.73s
completely stock from 93 mustang
59 in. from a mustang 5.0 GT car
4.10s
31 spline moser axles
31 spline carrier, new clutches (mustang trac loc)
--------------------------------------------------------
and another 8.8 for 150 $$
59 inch.
2.73s
completely stock from 93 mustang
project360
Well-Known Member
well, my local shop wants $800 to narrow any rear i bring them with new axles installed and complete rebuild, barrings, seals etc...... might as well buy an a-body 8 3/4 sg !!
blue73duster
Well-Known Member
I bet that thing hooks on those snow drags y'all have out west..lol
VERY NICE !!!!!!!!!!!
65cudalover
Well-Known Member
mist
inkjunkie
Well-Known Member
A 4l80e. Swapping it and a hybrid aode/470w that will be for my Fairlane for a aquarium I have no use for. Even if I were to pay my trans buddy for the 4l80, it would be cheaper than a gear vendor, unless you can get the gv for around 2k. My car is probably going to have a 572 Hemi with a crossram, and to the best of my knowledge no kick down linkage exists, so I would need a manual valve body. With the 4l80e and the EFI that I will be using it will still be an automatic, no manual shifting, even at the dragstrip. My trans controller is adjustable in many ways. Under full throttle, set it to shift at xxxx rpm and it will. And I will still have the lock up convertor, of which I can have it lock up in any gear, so there will be no convertor slippage while climbing some of the hills around here. Controller also allows for different shift firmness based upon throttle position. Don't like the way it shifts, plug in the laptop and change a few settings. Some people have said it is not strong enough yet with very few upgrades in them they survive behind 1200 hp. Sure, when you couple the cost of the trans with the Quicktime SFI bellhousing and controller it would probably cost the same as a 727/gv, but with my car having efi in it I figured might as well use a non-stone age trans in it also........and Inkjunkie, why don't you tell these nice people what transmission you're using
project360
Well-Known Member
ive found a 48 in. 8 3/4 suregrip axle to axle with 4.11 but no brakes.
going to take some measurements and see if that will even fit ..... the leaf perches are wicked short and sit with in one inch of the pumpkin... only $300
going to take some measurements and see if that will even fit ..... the leaf perches are wicked short and sit with in one inch of the pumpkin... only $300
Won't fit unless you mini tub it is my guess.
articcolds
Well-Known Member
Hello, I was searching through some threads trying to find some of you guys who have shortened your rears. I have a 68 Cuda and putting in a 4 link. I have installed the front relocation perches for the four link and did the mini tub added about 4 inches of metal to the inner fenders. But no one has shared or I cannot find anyone talking about lengths. I am just wondering what some of you have done. How short have you gone. I keep getting told I need to buy the rims then set them in and measure my width. Then it's how to figure the back spacing with no rear-end for the rims. Kind of a circle and I have got it down to maybe 49 to 52 inches depending on which rim I use. Anyone else have what they could share would be great.
Happy New Year!
Happy New Year!
ssba
Well-Known Member
Being a big block guy I have found the Dana's the cheapest way to go for
me. Especially after breaking a few 8 3/4s. I wouldn't go as far as saying
it is cheaper than some of the other options discussed above. But the Dana doesn't
have to be as expensive as most think. You will have to do most of the work yourself
though.
The only thing that helps to make the dana economical is there are millions
of them out there under trucks so if you look around you can find one with a
power loc and most of them usually have a 4.10 gear. Bonus if that gear will work for you. Being able to weld is also a big plus to keep cost at a minimum.
I would pass on any that didn't have a limited slip of some sort. You may have to look at
10 before you find one that does. And you may have to drag the whole junk truck home
with you just to get the dana at a good price. I never pay over 100.00 for a truck Dana.
Never forget their are lots more out there. At least here in the farm community I live in. I never pass on one with a limited slip if the price isn't to high and it isn't damaged. They can get damaged in trucks.
If you have to buy the whole truck you can pay a little more and scrap the truck to
get your money back.
I save the axle ends and brakes off the broken 8 3/4s for parts you will need.
Here's the bad part. There are many different tooth count on the side gears
in the limited slip units. You may get lucky and find one with 35 spline. This would be
the cheapest start.
Chances are it will have 16 or something you don't want in your car. This is why
you don't want to pay much for them at the start. So now you have about 350.00
in your Dana rather than 100.00. This should get you the 35 spline side gears some replacement clutch packs and a mabey a1350 yoke if you are careful where you
buy from. You still will need some custom axles. The rest is mostly labor and if you
think you may be doing more than 1 axle it would be good to get the tools and learn how to set them up yourself.
For 1 axle it would be cheaper to have someone do this part for you.
For me it was worth the time and investment as I wanted to build several to go behind
BB cars. Probably not worth all the effort for a small block car.
me. Especially after breaking a few 8 3/4s. I wouldn't go as far as saying
it is cheaper than some of the other options discussed above. But the Dana doesn't
have to be as expensive as most think. You will have to do most of the work yourself
though.
The only thing that helps to make the dana economical is there are millions
of them out there under trucks so if you look around you can find one with a
power loc and most of them usually have a 4.10 gear. Bonus if that gear will work for you. Being able to weld is also a big plus to keep cost at a minimum.
I would pass on any that didn't have a limited slip of some sort. You may have to look at
10 before you find one that does. And you may have to drag the whole junk truck home
with you just to get the dana at a good price. I never pay over 100.00 for a truck Dana.
Never forget their are lots more out there. At least here in the farm community I live in. I never pass on one with a limited slip if the price isn't to high and it isn't damaged. They can get damaged in trucks.
If you have to buy the whole truck you can pay a little more and scrap the truck to
get your money back.
I save the axle ends and brakes off the broken 8 3/4s for parts you will need.
Here's the bad part. There are many different tooth count on the side gears
in the limited slip units. You may get lucky and find one with 35 spline. This would be
the cheapest start.
Chances are it will have 16 or something you don't want in your car. This is why
you don't want to pay much for them at the start. So now you have about 350.00
in your Dana rather than 100.00. This should get you the 35 spline side gears some replacement clutch packs and a mabey a1350 yoke if you are careful where you
buy from. You still will need some custom axles. The rest is mostly labor and if you
think you may be doing more than 1 axle it would be good to get the tools and learn how to set them up yourself.
For 1 axle it would be cheaper to have someone do this part for you.
For me it was worth the time and investment as I wanted to build several to go behind
BB cars. Probably not worth all the effort for a small block car.
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
Badart, you put a ford, Ford, FORD rear end in your MOPAR, what is this Mopar world coming to?
and Inkjunkie, why don't you tell these nice people what transmission you're using
Gee, I don't know how to feel about this? I come to this forum to find serious Mopar peoples and I find a Ford world. Between the Ford Mustang II front ends disguised as a Mopar alteration called the alterkation and since when did Mopar go torsion bar-less? Then we have others using Ford rears, Ford brakes and God know what else and too top it all off, many here get on my case when I mention Chevy.
I guess it all depends on who you are according to the Mopar gurus who can do no wrong while using brand X and how they use it. Wait until the EPA starts adding another 5% ethanol to the already 10% ethanol content to the gasoline and you'll all have garage rods, so to speak as I will be driving my ethanol induced LT1, six speed Silverado truck cross country.
The only 2 parts I used in my 64 Signet which are from another manufacturer is the Toyota master cylinder which hooks up to a light on the dash which tells me when its low on fluid and the Toyota alternator with its built in regulator, recommended by JR Engineering who frequents this forum, but at least those parts can be replaced easily with the backwoods, old school, outdated mentally challenged Mopar parts who were once manufactured in the good ol' U.S of A but have been long gone leaving us to deal with inferior manufacturing processes from people who sometimes do not speak our language, but that's cool cause the parts boxes are printed in the U.S.A.
lmao.. you started a **** storm.. some just don't understand sarcasm man..
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
a friend used an explorer rear...
Stock Explorer 8.8 rear, 31 spline axles, 3.73 (may change to 3.21) gear, limited slip, disc brakes - $250 complete from junkyard. Add 2005 and up mustang wheels (17x8, 6.3" bs) put wheels in the center of the wheel wells. 275/50/17's are a close fit (1/4 to 1/2" all around, may have to down a size so they don't rub. Also moved springs in 1/2"...
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