340six
King Of Bling
Amazon shows #6907 is that the one you need.
That is where I bought mine
rear sway bar recommendations
- Thread starter 72dustervs
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That is where I bought mine
I saw it on Amazon but doesn't mean its in stock , all vendors say back ordered , I actually purchased today thru jegs but not expected till Feb.
i bought a hellwig bar thru an amazon vendor *last* october that was back ordered but had a short lead time, like a few weeks. i wound up selling the car before i ever got the bar and subsequently cancelled the order months after that even on the hope i'd maybe get one to have on the shelf.
jegs used to be notorious for pulling that projected delivery date stuff only to move it countless times. i'll only order from them if it's in stock, and if i get a message after the fact that it's back ordered or is "coming from the mfgr" or whatever, i cancel the order immediately and find the parts elsewhere.
340six
King Of Bling
Mine came in 3 days. Looked at purchase history.
Edit ordered 15th came 18th.
Said shipped in 2-3 weeks but came in 3 days.
Still says 2-3 weeks but mine came in days. YMMV
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I will wait on Jegs for now as I am retiring at first of the year and will have more free time to do a few more things as the build goes on , few things to do underneath and get body painted , so its coming together
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Congratulations on your retirement!
Jim Lusk
Well-Known Member
No, I haven't, but I'll see what the local tire store I use has. I got Falken's for the Barracuda. Tires had a good rating plus an "H" speed rating. 215-60-15s for about $110/each. The last 14s we bought were for my son's Barracuda when he still had small bolt pattern. They were Dunlop SP sport (or something like that). Talk about grip. Those tires are currently being used as rollers for the GTS and still mostly hold air. Not bad for tires bought in 2001. You can't buy those anymore.
Sure, but unless you're going to take your A-body sprint racing this remains a completely irrelevant example. Like chicken wire and bodywork, the two things are just not related.
Oof. Yeah, they're not even listed at Summit right now and Summit typically has a much better rep when it comes to ordering back ordered parts. If they've de-listed it I don't know that I'd bet on Jegs.
It looks like the Hotchkis rear sway bar is shipping in a week from Summit, and it's basically the same price as the Hellwig from Jegs. The Hotchkis does require welding on the hangers, but it is also a hollow bar vs the solid Hellwig so it has some weight advantage too. Hotchkis stuff is always really nice, just pricey. But the Hellwig 6907 is looking like the same price so that's not really a concern.
Hotchkis Sport Suspension 22385R Hotchkis Sport Suspension Anti-Sway Bar Kits | Summit RacingI have Hotchkis bars for my Challenger and my '71 Dart, they're really nice parts.
Damn. Just DAMN. lol
Woody500
Well-Known Member
Lifting front tire comment is not irrelevant when some people will be misled into thinking it only happens on dirt. There's more to handling than the A-body world. & somebody else explained why it works, earlier. Did you miss that or just ignore it
[redacted]
I almost bought one of those just out of HS.....
Every year at the PVGP You can watch Speedsters hooking the hairpins with the inside frts. off the ground....
LOL!
No, no one "explained why it works". OMM said you needed it to turn a sprint car, which is only part of the story. The simple fact of the matter is I said an A-body was nearly picking up its wheel in a vintage photograph, and now you've sidetracked us into an irrelevant discussion with regard to a street going A-body. Or any A-body, for that matter. Sure, any car can pick up an inside wheel when pushed hard enough. RWD cars pick up the inside front, FWD cars pick up the inside rear. If a car is doing that though, it means you've surpassed the limit of your suspension, chassis, tires, or all 3. Because it's typically NOT something you want to be doing IF there's anything left for you to do to avoid it.
Sprint and midget racing is a VERY unique application. Obviously the same basic physics applies, but dramatic differences in suspension design, tires, and chassis' means that what you do to set up a sprint or midget is so unlike anything you would do for a street going A-body it makes the reference pretty much useless. And even if it wasn't, neither you or OMM has bothered to talk about the physics of lateral load transfer and how a sprint car deals with that differently than an A-body.
You and OMM are apparently experts in sprint and midget racing, why not enlighten us how ANY of that is even marginally relevant to choosing a sway bar on a street going A-body? Can you? Or are you just trying to come up with any example at all, unrelated or not, to question what I said?
I mean, the current generation of F1 cars use torsion bars, do you think anything they do to set up their suspension is relevant for an A-body? I'll give you a hint, the answer is NO.
Let's go back to the car that started this nonsense
This car (actually both of them) looks like it needs higher wheel rates and a larger front sway bar. Add those things and it will stay flatter in the turn, maintain a larger tire contact patch, and go around the corner faster. Even with the old tire tech it's running.
Of course, if you translate the French it says the #23 car has flat rear tires, soooooo that might be relevant huh?
Nice!
They're fun little cars, I really need to get mine back on the road.
Yup, they are well known for that. They're up against the limits of the design of their chassis and suspension. Pretty common in vintage racing, you don't have the leeway in the rules to make the modifications needed to try and rein that in. Plus the smaller the car gets the more likely it is to do that (one of the reasons sprint cars do it, 84" wheelbase!). Speedsters are pretty little!
That said, Austin Healey 100's aren't much bigger, and they're not known for their wheel jacking tendencies (although they have their own issues!).
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Lean angle on those seems a bit different than that vintage picture huh? Might be something to it...
Green Bean
Member
There is absolutely nothing wrong with lifting a tire in autocross, especially FWD. Sometimes you want the car to rotate, not stick. Some bad assumptions in your thinking.LOL!
No, no one "explained why it works". OMM said you needed it to turn a sprint car, which is only part of the story. The simple fact of the matter is I said an A-body was nearly picking up its wheel in a vintage photograph, and now you've sidetracked us into an irrelevant discussion with regard to a street going A-body. Or any A-body, for that matter. Sure, any car can pick up an inside wheel when pushed hard enough. RWD cars pick up the inside front, FWD cars pick up the inside rear. If a car is doing that though, it means you've surpassed the limit of your suspension, chassis, tires, or all 3. Because it's typically NOT something you want to be doing IF there's anything left for you to do to avoid it.
Sprint and midget racing is a VERY unique application. Obviously the same basic physics applies, but dramatic differences in suspension design, tires, and chassis' means that what you do to set up a sprint or midget is so unlike anything you would do for a street going A-body it makes the reference pretty much useless. And even if it wasn't, neither you or OMM has bothered to talk about the physics of lateral load transfer and how a sprint car deals with that differently than an A-body.
You and OMM are apparently experts in sprint and midget racing, why not enlighten us how ANY of that is even marginally relevant to choosing a sway bar on a street going A-body? Can you? Or are you just trying to come up with any example at all, unrelated or not, to question what I said?
I mean, the current generation of F1 cars use torsion bars, do you think anything they do to set up their suspension is relevant for an A-body? I'll give you a hint, the answer is NO.
Let's go back to the car that started this nonsense
This car (actually both of them) looks like it needs higher wheel rates and a larger front sway bar. Add those things and it will stay flatter in the turn, maintain a larger tire contact patch, and go around the corner faster. Even with the old tire tech it's running.
Of course, if you translate the French it says the #23 car has flat rear tires, soooooo that might be relevant huh?
Nice!
They're fun little cars, I really need to get mine back on the road.
Yup, they are well known for that. They're up against the limits of the design of their chassis and suspension. Pretty common in vintage racing, you don't have the leeway in the rules to make the modifications needed to try and rein that in. Plus the smaller the car gets the more likely it is to do that (one of the reasons sprint cars do it, 84" wheelbase!). Speedsters are pretty little!
That said, Austin Healey 100's aren't much bigger, and they're not known for their wheel jacking tendencies (although they have their own issues!).
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
man, such a simple question has turned into a total clusterfuck....
his intended use:
.....
his intended use:
.....
Strange that OMM’s new friends are both from Florida, both think three tire traction is better than four, both try to relate roundyround racing to street and auto-x, and both are really new here.
I hope these guys never find autocross. Competition will be doomed.
I hope these guys never find autocross. Competition will be doomed.
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Please explain it like you were talking to Randy Pobst, not just “Sometimes you want the car to rotate”.
Explain it like you really know the fine details, in more than one sentence.
Green Bean
Member
I have been autocrossing on and off for 40 years in FWD, AWD and RWD cars, front and rear engined. I am decent at it, not great by any means. I do have one SCCA regional championship. I have no idea who Randy Pobst is without googling him. Rotating the car for the purposes of this discussion is in reference to a FWD car, you charge into the corner, lift off the throttle and turn, weight shifts forward, the car lifts the inside rear tire and the rear of the car slides sideways (car rotates), when the car is aimed where you want it, you get back on the throttle, weight shifts rearward, the rear stops sliding, and you accelerate out of the corner.
Have you never seen the pictures of the Lotus Cortinas going round corners a three wheels (driven by some of the greatest drivers ever)? Have you never been to the Daytona 24 hours and seen the Porsches going round the infield turns on three wheels?
Woody500
Well-Known Member
Also Physics still apply, no matter what class. & all info about all classes is info that's worth knowing. You never know where the next idea will come from.
And right here is the problem^^^^, it's not a simple question, and intended usage has a 50% affect this decision....the important thing is the total package.
Per the OP He's only got the stock front 3/4" bar from a '73 & up, that's not enough to use a rear bar w/the ESPO's. The frt .870" T-bars are a bit soft, but here, the usage DOES matter. Rural roads, especially like Mine, have a lot of rapid elevation changes.....straight on or mid-turn, like a ralley, so more stored energy does a better job keeping the tires in contact with the road when the suspension moves into rebound.
Basically, the OP needs a bigger frt. bar, before considering a rear one. And the best shocks He can get.
Which set of ESPOs did You purchase, 6-leaf? Stk ride height?
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