For the $100 or so it will cost you in a new gasket, get your utility knife out and cut the gasket and pop the window out. Otherwise you risk cracking your window trying to salvage a gasket that probably won't seal correctly when you go back to re-install it.
To answer your question, I have not. I figured if I'm going to take it down that far, I'm going to do it right and put in a new gasket and prep the pinch weld. You only want to do this once in your lifetime, unless you're a masochist. In which case, whatever floats your boat.
You don't mention the year or model of your car, but it only cost me $90 for the rear window gasket on my 71' Dart. It fits perfectly and doesn't leak.
Thank you for your feedback. I apologize, I did not mention the car. It is a 1965 dart GT. I’ve looked everywhere in the only rear window gasket I can find was like $300. Do you have any other information on where I could find a cheaper one?For the $100 or so it will cost you in a new gasket, get your utility knife out and cut the gasket and pop the window out. Otherwise you risk cracking your window trying to salvage a gasket that probably won't seal correctly when you go back to re-install it.
To answer your question, I have not. I figured if I'm going to take it down that far, I'm going to do it right and put in a new gasket and prep the pinch weld. You only want to do this once in your lifetime, unless you're a masochist. In which case, whatever floats your boat.
You don't mention the year or model of your car, but it only cost me $90 for the rear window gasket on my 71' Dart. It fits perfectly and doesn't leak.
You are correct! 65 dart two door hardtop. Can’t find anything under around $300 for the rear window seal. Also having a lot of trouble finding the door rubber that runs up around the windows that’s held in with the chrome molding.If his is anything like mine (64 Valiant 2 door sedan) 100 bucks ain't gonna get it done. Mine was 249 bucks from Steele Rubber.....the only company that makes them, PLUS I had to buy a lock strip separately, because the one in the kit has the mylar chrome on it and I wanted black.
You are correct! 65 dart two door hardtop. Can’t find anything under around $300 for the rear window seal. Also having a lot of trouble finding the door rubber that runs up around the windows that’s held in with the chrome molding.
No worries, it's just helpful when we know year/model.You are correct! 65 dart two door hardtop. Can’t find anything under around $300 for the rear window seal. Also having a lot of trouble finding the door rubber that runs up around the windows that’s held in with the chrome molding.
Thank you for the feedback. I’m actually looking at it again this morning and realizing this rear seal does not have a locking strip in it. Unlike the front where I could pull out the locking strip the back is a solid seal. Unless I’m missing something or it’s possibly on the inside. The only other automobile windows I’ve ever put in, and it’s been a lot of them, are for early Volkswagens. None of those have locking strips. We would always put the rubber around the window, run a rope cord around the inside of the pinch weld channel on the rubber, set the window in place with the gasket on it and then pull the cord. The rope would flip the lip of the gasket up around the pinch weld while someone applied pressure from the outside.Even if you got it in nice and tight I think time and fluctuating temperature would cause the joint to separate and leak. I'm not even sure how you would get it in since the whole thing is installed in the pinch weld and then the glass is put in place into the gasket. Sounds like a nightmare keeping the gasket ends where you cut it in place while putting in the glass - just my 2 cents. The "cheap gaskets for my 70 Dart have " square corners" in the bottom, so adapting that $100 gasket might not work - those gaskets have no locking strip.
That's the way I install them on your type of rubber gasket. On removing the glass, I use a wide putty knife to work the inside lip of the gasket to the outside of the pinch weld using mild pressure pushing the glass outward. Take your time and it will come out fairly easily unless your gasket is petrified. First I gently flex the rubber away from the body all the way around so I know it's free and not glued or stuck to the pinch weld. I usually start on the side section close to one upper corner and work my way around that corner and over to the other top corner. Then evenly work both sides toward the bottom. Usually by the time you get a bit over half way down on both sides, the glass with it's rubber will push out. The key to not breaking the glass or cutting the gasket is not to force anything or be heavy handed in prying. Back glasses are a lot tougher to break than a windshield, so, unless there is a flaw in the glass, or you get carried away, it's usually no problem.View attachment 1715524759
Thank you for the feedback. I’m actually looking at it again this morning and realizing this rear seal does not have a locking strip in it. Unlike the front where I could pull out the locking strip the back is a solid seal. Unless I’m missing something or it’s possibly on the inside. The only other automobile windows I’ve ever put in, and it’s been a lot of them, are for early Volkswagens. None of those have locking strips. We would always put the rubber around the window, run a rope cord around the inside of the pinch weld channel on the rubber, set the window in place with the gasket on it and then pull the cord. The rope would flip the lip of the gasket up around the pinch weld while someone applied pressure from the outside.
Just like cudamark says. I should've made a video with my phone but got too involved. I will say lots of wd-40 and heat. Gentle persuasion like handling a baby.That's the way I install them on your type of rubber gasket. On removing the glass, I use a wide putty knife to work the inside lip of the gasket to the outside of the pinch weld using mild pressure pushing the glass outward. Take your time and it will come out fairly easily unless your gasket is petrified. First I gently flex the rubber away from the body all the way around so I know it's free and not glued or stuck to the pinch weld. I usually start on the side section close to one upper corner and work my way around that corner and over to the other top corner. Then evenly work both sides toward the bottom. Usually by the time you get a bit over half way down on both sides, the glass with it's rubber will push out. The key to not breaking the glass or cutting the gasket is not to force anything or be heavy handed in prying. Back glasses are a lot tougher to break than a windshield, so, unless there is a flaw in the glass, or you get carried away, it's usually no problem.
Thats a good point! I wasnt worried about making a mess because the car is mostly disassembled. I used the wd40 can with the smart straw. Peel the gasket away a bit and squirt. Move a little bit to the side and repeat. All the way around the glass. Inside and out. Didnt really get any on the headliner but it did get all over the package tray area and in the trunk, so that would be a bad thing to get wd40 all over areas that are gonna get painted or need to stay clean.Yup, WD40 works good, it just makes a mess of the headliner if you're going to save it. A lube I've used on the installation is the old GoJo hand cleaner.....the non-grit, snotty stuff It's nice and slippery and cleans up pretty easily with soap and water. Neither one will hurt the rubber gasket.