Refinishing Super Tricks

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MMissile said:
I have about 5-6 sets of Tricks, a couple NOS halves, bolts, and centers. I always take everything I'm working on apart, and the spun finish will clean pretty easily with wheel cleaner and a stiff brush. The acid based stuff will turn aluminum white, as mentioned above. The bolts are pretty generic[nobody will notice], and the caps and good wheels/non-beat, are the key to having a nice set. I don't like the Tricks polished, and Centerlines are a cheaper knock-off. I also managed to grab a pair of the large/chrome centers[NOS]...like on the Landy Challenger. Other than Fly's, I like the Tricks the best. I'm gonna send one set out to be black-anodized for my next project.
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You mean like these?
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Cool. I have lots of those. I'm also gonna anodize a set of those, black.
 
HemiDenny said:
...
tried Leanna / Phoenix Coatings....she turned me on to her best shot at powder coating wheels......send him pics, but not heard back.
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I'm sorry to read this Denny. I even sent him a Facebook message about you and he seemed eager enough so this is a surprise. From what I've seen, he's as busy as me and worth waiting for.
 
CudaChick1968 said:
I'm sorry to read this Denny. I even sent him a Facebook message about you and he seemed eager enough so this is a surprise. From what I've seen, he's as busy as me and worth waiting for.
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no problem....I was not complaining....just remarking I do not have an answer yet. I just sent him the pictures the other day. He even mentioned you had given him a heads up.

I will rattle the bushes next week

thanks for the help,
Denny
 
For what it's worth, I agree with the others who say powder isn't going to be your best option to achieve the old school original look you're going for.
If you do end up going with a homespun method like the cool ideas above, they can be preserved. Check out the new Cerakote ceramic clears from NIC Industries.
 
I flipped a set of Craigslist SST's (looking for Centerlines) for a VW. I pulled all the rusty hex bolts, polished them back up and used black Allen head cap screws with thread locker. looked very nice. I guess the buyer thought so too! $$$!
 
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I refinished mine by setting the rear axle up on jack stands, mounting the wheel (without the tire). Start the car, put it in gear and raise the idle These are tow different rims I've done.:

The type (grit) of sand paper you use will determine the finish. Also, use a large piece of cardboard around the wheel well and lots of water. The cardboard will keep the water (and sludge) off the car fender. I didn't want the polished look. I wanted the old school satin finish:




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treblig
 
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Cool idea treblig!!! I'd bet a Bondo spreader might work well for the center area. You could remove 3 of the lug nuts, fold the sandpaper over the edge to where you could hold it with your fingers, position it next to the hub and press it straight down til you get to the other lug. They'd obviously have to be changed around to get the whole center.

Some of these replies make it obvious people don't really read, just scan.
 
CudaChick1968 said:
Cool idea treblig!!! I'd bet a Bondo spreader might work well for the center area. You could remove 3 of the lug nuts, fold the sandpaper over the edge to where you could hold it with your fingers, position it next to the hub and press it straight down til you get to the other lug. They'd obviously have to be changed around to get the whole center.

Some of these replies make it obvious people don't really read, just scan.
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To get the centers I remove the rim off the axle and use a disc on a drill. You have to find a disc (or trim one down) with the correct diameter then put the correct grit sandpaper on the disc (double sided tape) and you'll get the same finish as the rest of the rim without much work. I couldn't believe how fast I refinished my rims. Mine were pretty "jacked up" (30 years old). I just used some heavy grit sandpaper to knock down all the roughness/oxidation then just kept going to a finer grit. With lots of water it doesn't take long at all...about 15 min per rim. It actually takes longer to jack the car up, put it on jack stands, start the engine and raise the idle, then all that in reverse. In the case of HemiDenny, his rims are already real nice and smooth so it would only take a few minutes. The real killer is that they charge $100/$125 per rim for polishing!!!! If you have a friend who has a tire balancer it's even easier because the balancer holds the rim using a tapered device on the center hole leaving the lug holes free and clear for the sandpaper!!
Necessity is the mother of invention!!!

Treblig
 
I couldn't tell in the first pic I posted whether or not those had a slight polish to them. There's another set of 4 on there (Racingjunk.com) now that definitely seem to be a satin finish. The rears are 15 X 12 but maybe they'd split them up.
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Treblig said:
View attachment 1714952497 View attachment 1714952497 View attachment 1714952487
I refinished mine by setting the rear axle up on jack stands, mounting the wheel (without the tire). Start the car, put it in gear and raise the idle These are tow different rims I've done.:

The type (grit) of sand paper you use will determine the finish. Also, use a large piece of cardboard around the wheel well and lots of water. The cardboard will keep the water (and sludge) off the car fender. I didn't want the polished look. I wanted the old school satin finish:




View attachment 1714952487 :


treblig
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That method is a great idea...thanks for the input.
 
HemiDenny said:
John,
Thanks for the help....we are working out the details

Looks like I will have a set of beautiful polished super tricks for sale in the near future.
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I hope that one of those deals works out. It's not uncommon to see the unpolished Super Tricks show up at swap meets around here and they're usually cheaper but they almost always have battle scars.
 
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