Remove all water from the block

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Joep

Joep

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So just got my cooling issues resolved and because i didn't want to waste expensive antifreeze I used distilled water. Well now that everything is working properly and it's also starting to get a little chilly I want to fill it up with coolant. Is there a way to drain all of the water thats in the block now? Or should I drain the radiator and put non-mixed stuff in?
 
If you used distilled water, I'd just buy me a couple gallons of straight undiluted anti freeze and mix with the distilled water to get the correct specific gravity for it. Wouldn't worry about draining the system completely. You'll have to have enough coolant in it so you can run it and circulate it to check the mix. Also as a side note I'd pull the thermostat and fill up to that point thru the block to help prevent air pockets. Then install the thermostat and go from there.
 
I put brass-radiator petcocks in all my engines.

makes easy to drain and prep for winter

40161204-2945-4b3a-b89e-731055ca93d7_zpsmlfzunsx.jpg
 
You don't need to remove all the water from the block, you just need to remove 50% of the water so you can add enough coolant to get to the optimal 50% concentration of coolant to water ratio.

Look up the total volume of coolant in your system. Drain the radiator from the petcock, if the amount drained is greater than 50% of the total cooling system you're golden. For example a 340 Dart had a stock cooling capacity of 16 quarts or 4 gallons. Thus 2 gallons or 8 quarts of coolant is the correct amount.

If you're still worried, you can test the concentration of your coolant. They sell hydrometers at auto parts stores that will tell you your concentration of coolant.

Hope this helps,

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
Does anyone know the capacity of a 440? Its not a stock radiator either if that makes a difference
 
And the 50% mix is good to -35C as I recall. That would be -31F, if my math serves me.

I know nothing about BBMs but on SBMs the 50% can barely be reached by draining the system through the rad petcock and also draining the heater core.The 26 inch rad makes it a little easier.
You know and I could never figure that out, cuz it seems like the block could never hold that much water! I usually remove the one waterpump bolt that also penetrates into the jacket. Drivers side, 2nd from the top IIRC.Gives me a chance to refresh the anti-seize on it. But it's always better to drain too much.
 
The short answer is you are going to have to get at least one block drain plug out

Since you really don't know "what's left in there" and since it can really get cold in Vermont, you probably need to just suck it up and drain the block.

Be careful buying antifreeze. Some of the "premix" junk does not make that exactly "clear" on the container.
 
Pull the bottom radiator hose off,
Take the drains out of both sides of the block.
Take the heater hoses off and blow air thru them.
Put everything together and mix more antifreeze to distilled water like 70% antifreeze, 30% water.
You are trying to save what $2.00 worth of water????
 
sireland67 said:
Pull the bottom radiator hose off,
Take the drains out of both sides of the block.
Take the heater hoses off and blow air thru them.
Put everything together and mix more antifreeze to distilled water like 70% antifreeze, 30% water.
You are trying to save what $2.00 worth of water????
Click to expand...

Um, no. You don't want to go beyond 50% Anti-freeze as glycol isn't as good a coolant as straight water. Thus, you could introduce a cooling problem by using a 70% mixture. Maybe, if you live in ND, WY, or some other place where it gets really, really, really cold, you might want over 50% mixture.

As far as pulling block plugs, heater hoses and using compressed air, I'd skip all of that. I'd pull the lower ratiator hose and drain the radiator and most of the block. Fill as much as possible with straight coolant. Test the coolant. If you don't get to the number you want, open the petcock, drain out another gallon of MIXED coolant and add a gallon of pure coolant. A lot less work than pulling plugs that may be frozen.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
Joe Dokes said:
Um, no. You don't want to go beyond 50% Anti-freeze as glycol isn't as good a coolant as straight water. Thus, you could introduce a cooling problem by using a 70% mixture. Maybe, if you live in ND, WY, or some other place where it gets really, really, really cold, you might want over 50% mixture.

As far as pulling block plugs, heater hoses and using compressed air, I'd skip all of that. I'd pull the lower ratiator hose and drain the radiator and most of the block. Fill as much as possible with straight coolant. Test the coolant. If you don't get to the number you want, open the petcock, drain out another gallon of MIXED coolant and add a gallon of pure coolant. A lot less work than pulling plugs that may be frozen.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
Click to expand...

He is in Vermont. Not CA crap freezes real bad here.
Ever have your power steering fluid in your pump freeze up?
The reason I suggested 70% is the there will be water left in the system.
50/50 is the correct mix, but with all the water left you are just guessing.
 
Run it. Test it. Drain as much as your common sense tells you is correct. Refill with undiluted coolant. Run. Re test. I can guarantee, you won't have to do it all more than twice to get around -35°. Even if it isn't perfectly mixed it won't freeze solid at 34°.
 
Even a bit below it's freeze point it doesn't freeze, sitting in the block. But as soon as you start it, and the fan starts to pull that icy cold air through the rad, the water in the glycol goes to crystals, and they are too big to circulate. So even tho it did not freeze overnight, now the rad is not circulating, nor the heatercore and your temp gauge is telling you the engine is overheating.And you can imagine the frustration that sets in when you are hundreds of miles from home with 3 kids and a screaming wife. There is just no good way to make this better. The car has to be removed to a warmer environment and thawed out. So, it's another night in the motel.
I'l make it up to you dear, honestly.
Just try to erase that from her memory. Just try......A lifetime of apologies won't cover it.
Why can't they be like men, we just duke it out for a bit,then go have a beer.

Story embellished for effect.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Even a bit below it's freeze point it doesn't freeze, sitting in the block. But as soon as you start it, and the fan starts to pull that icy cold air through the rad, the water in the glycol goes to crystals, and they are too big to circulate. So even tho it did not freeze overnight, now the rad is not circulating, nor the heatercore and your temp gauge is telling you the engine is overheating.And you can imagine the frustration that sets in when you are hundreds of miles from home with 3 kids and a screaming wife. There is just no good way to make this better. The car has to be removed to a warmer environment and thawed out. So, it's another night in the motel.
I'l make it up to you dear, honestly.
Just try to erase that from her memory. Just try......A lifetime of apologies won't cover it.
Why can't they be like men, we just duke it out for a bit,then go have a beer.

Story embellished for effect.
Click to expand...

Touching story. You should write novels. I would buy your books. lol
 
16 quart capacity
Drain 8
Refill with two gallons of non premixed.

Done, simple quick and easy.
If you even bother pulling the thermostat drill a 1/8 hole in the shoulder of it and put it back in.
Not only will it burp the air out of the block right away when filling it back up, but will do it that easy forever after. (with that specific thermostat in it)
I'll never put one in without drilling it to let the air out before the stat opens.
 
TrailBeast said:
16 quart capacity
Drain 8
Refill with two gallons of non premixed.

Done, simple quick and easy.
If you even bother pulling the thermostat drill a 1/8 hole in the shoulder of it and put it back in.
Not only will it burp the air out of the block right away when filling it back up, but will do it that easy forever after. (with that specific thermostat in it)
I'll never put one in without drilling it to let the air out before the stat opens.
Click to expand...

Gee, that was simple. Great tip on the thermostat mod.
 
I would aim for 70% glycol for lower range before it freezes. He won't be over-heating in Vermont anyway. Don't worry so much about heat xfer capability of the fluid. There are many factors involved. The main "choke point" in heat transfer is the radiator to air interface, so if the coolant flow keeps up with that, it isn't the limiting factor. You could put the biggest water pump known to man and you still wouldn't get past the radiator bottle-neck in rejecting heat. Hope that is clear.
 
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