removing aluminum anodizing

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lil red

lil red

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anyone here ever remove the anodizing that is on aluminum trim pieces.

I want to polish up the grill on my 79 truck, and from I can tell, I think the coating on it is anodizing and not clearcoat, correct me if i'm wrong.

I read online where oven cleaner or lye based draino will remove it, then the piece can be polished with aluminum polish to a shine......anyone try this with satisfactory results....

thanks fellas, Jim
 
Our member "Mullinax" did his entire grille from his 68 Cuda with outstanding results. I know he used oven cleaner to take off the anodization, then polished them and clear coated them so they would stay shiny!

Hope this helps, geof
 
mine started like this and ended up being pretty good if I do say so, and yup I used the regular easy off oven cleaner. (I tried the value brand first and it SUCKED) sprayed it on and let it do it's magic. on the grill it took 3 or more tries to really clean the hard to reach places but it did the job.

this one is the one on the left in the next pic. and it had 2 extra holes in it from a hackjob trying to screw the bezel onto the grill.
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left one done and on too the right.
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toolmanmike said:
I'll leave the straightening to Leanna.
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heck it isn't that hard on the 63-66 cars. It might be a little harder on some others. I used a scratch awl, Popsicle sticks, oak dowels and pretty much anything that fit in the shape I was working on. plus a large assortment of sand paper. Every piece of trim I had for the car except for the pot metal pieces had dents or holes in them


One thing I did discover was the aluminum welding rods you see everyone at swap meets selling and telling you you only need a torch to weld stuff up. I had some bad holes I wanted filled and decided to try the rods I had bough in a weak(I thought really stupid moment) moment welllll they worked. I couldn't believe it. I had a couple of nasty dents and tears in the grill of my 66 dart and I was able to weld the tear up and mount another tab that had broken off to hold the headlight bezel on plus fill a couple of holes from the original owner putting in grill mounted fog lights. it was unbelievable to see that rod work. I have one more grill I have to fix for the wife's car and it's got some dings and a tear in the headlight area that I'll be using the rod for.
 
Nice work, those bezels are amazing, I've seen those rods, I'll pick some up..

thanx very much for sharing,,
 
Mad Dart said:
The original if you can find it. I don't know about the newer version it is probably a weaker solution, don't know.
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Actually you can find the original as it's still out there. I and many other pinstripers use it occasionally for removing painted pinstripes so as to start with a clean slate, so to speak...
 
Well I tried the easy off on my 79 truck grill and I have no idea what went wrong but it was an epic fail... Looks terrible. I'll try to get some pics and maybe somebody can help us both out...
 
The thing to remember about using the Easy Off is that you can't let it dry on there. Spray it on and let it sit a few minutes (2-3) and then spray it again. You'll see it start to work when the bubbling foam rising off the part turns a light gray or brownish color. Keep spraying it until there's no more gray / brown. Then rinse the part off in COLD water to neutralize the chemical and dry it with compressed air.
 
CudaChick1968 said:
The thing to remember about using the Easy Off is that you can't let it dry on there. Spray it on and let it sit a few minutes (2-3) and then spray it again. You'll see it start to work when the bubbling foam rising off the part turns a light gray or brownish color. Keep spraying it until there's no more gray / brown. Then rinse the part off in COLD water to neutralize the chemical and dry it with compressed air.
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CudaChick, after this process, isn't there alot of polishing time ahead, now and forevever, to make the part shine and stay shined?

If you do this for someone do you use clear powder coat to protect the finish?
 
cuda67 said:
CudaChick, after this process, isn't there alot of polishing time ahead, now and forevever, to make the part shine and stay shined?

If you do this for someone do you use clear powder coat to protect the finish?
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Well, it just depends on what my customers want and/or what the original finish was. Sometimes they're restored to a mirror finish (with lots of hours spent tapping out dings, sanding away scratches and polishing on my buffer), in which case a clear powder coating can be applied to preserve and protect all that work.

View attachment 007 - Copy.jpg

Others are a combination of powder coating and polishing ...

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... and, if there's severe damage on polished / anodized parts that requires metal filler (which sadly doesn't polish worth a damn LOL), they can be "recreated" strictly with powder coating.

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In the case of zigs' Dart's front grille right there, he was looking for more of a brushed aluminum finish that was achieved through a heavy coat of clear on top of my Super Chrome powder. The factory's chrome-and-black look these grilles had from the factory could be recreated with powder too though.

Basically cuda67, it's just a job-by-job call as to best course of action on any part. But if you don't keep your car sealed up in a baggie out of the weather forever or protect the bare polishing with new anodizing, Zoop Seal or a clear powder, you will end up sanding out scratches and keeping Mother's Polishes in business every few months. :-D
 
CudaChick1968 said:
Well, it just depends on what my customers want and/or what the original finish was. Sometimes they're restored to a mirror finish (with lots of hours spent tapping out dings, sanding away scratches and polishing on my buffer), in which case a clear powder coating can be applied to preserve and protect all that work.

View attachment 1714621968

Others are a combination of powder coating and polishing ...

View attachment 1714621969

View attachment 1714621970

... and, if there's severe damage on polished / anodized parts that requires metal filler (which sadly doesn't polish worth a damn LOL), they can be "recreated" strictly with powder coating.

View attachment 1714621976

View attachment 1714621977

View attachment 1714621975

In the case of zigs' Dart's front grille right there, he was looking for more of a brushed aluminum finish that was achieved through a heavy coat of clear on top of my Super Chrome powder. The factory's chrome-and-black look these grilles had from the factory could be recreated with powder too though.

Basically cuda67, it's just a job-by-job call as to best course of action on any part. But if you don't keep your car sealed up in a baggie out of the weather forever or protect the bare polishing with new anodizing, Zoop Seal or a clear powder, you will end up sanding out scratches and keeping Mother's Polishes in business every few months. :-D
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on that picture with the hole in the bezel I'd use the rod that I bought but I'd be worried about the powder coating heat . if I was just going to polish it the it would be ok, that weird little rod they sell at swap meets does polish out just like the original part,but since it's put on with a propane torch I would be hesitant to powder coat it.


hmm wife's not home and I do have a headlight bezel that I did a repair on. lemme see if I can get away with sneaking into the house and heat the oven up to 400 and see if it melts:D as far as sealing it I have had good luck with shine and seal tire kit(replacement for the zoop seal) or poorboys rim seal . they don't wax the piece they seal it with some kind of sealer. I polished some rims for a mudder truck and they lasted a 1 1/2 years before showing any kind of wear. did a quick polish by hand and resealed, good for another 1 1/2
and that guy does mud!
 
CudaChick1968 said:
Well, it just depends on what my customers want and/or what the original finish was. Sometimes they're restored to a mirror finish (with lots of hours spent tapping out dings, sanding away scratches and polishing on my buffer), in which case a clear powder coating can be applied to preserve and protect all that work.

View attachment 1714621968

Others are a combination of powder coating and polishing ...

View attachment 1714621969

View attachment 1714621970

... and, if there's severe damage on polished / anodized parts that requires metal filler (which sadly doesn't polish worth a damn LOL), they can be "recreated" strictly with powder coating.

View attachment 1714621976

View attachment 1714621977

View attachment 1714621975

In the case of zigs' Dart's front grille right there, he was looking for more of a brushed aluminum finish that was achieved through a heavy coat of clear on top of my Super Chrome powder. The factory's chrome-and-black look these grilles had from the factory could be recreated with powder too though.

Basically cuda67, it's just a job-by-job call as to best course of action on any part. But if you don't keep your car sealed up in a baggie out of the weather forever or protect the bare polishing with new anodizing, Zoop Seal or a clear powder, you will end up sanding out scratches and keeping Mother's Polishes in business every few months. :-D
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Damn Leanna, that is some seriously good looking work there!
 
Fun facts about anodizing:

The anodizing process only works on aluminium.

It takes place in a sulfuric acid bath chilled to 70 degrees F. and coverts the surface of aluminium from pure aluminum to aluminum oxide. Hard anodize takes place in a sulfuric bath at 50 degrees F, and uses approximately three times the current.

This aluminum oxide is essentially rust, yet it is so dense that it inhibits any further oxidation.

Even regular anodize is HARD that is why you need to stip it off before any polishing.

After the part is anodized microscopic pores still exist in the material, various dyes can then be used to dye the part any number of colors. Following the dying process the part is sealed in a Hot Water bath (it has some other chemicals that help the sealing process). Most dyes are made from organic material and will fade in direct sunlight. So if the part is going to be outside clear anodize or gold anodize is the way to go.

Anodize is a dielectric coating. This is important, when trying to find a good ground don't immediately assume that an aluminum part will make a great ground. If the part has been anodized you need to use an abrasive and scratch through the anodize to get a solid ground. Some companies actually hard anodize (another process, think regular anodize but thicker and harder) aluminum parts and then use them as electric insulators. Weird using aluminum to insulate electricity.

If you buy anodized cookware DO NOT put it in the dishwasher. Automatic dishwashing detergent has just enough of a base to slowly eat through the hard anodized finish with repeated washings. Anodize holds up great to a number of petrochemicals, but won't tolerate strong acids or bases.

To check to see if a part is anodized use a volt meter. If the part that appears to be raw or chromed material won't conduct electricity it is probably anodized.

Do NOT use aluminum polish on anodized parts. The polish has an abrasive that will slowly chew through the anodize. If you buy a nice set of rims that appear to be polished aluminium check with a volt meter before breaking out the mothers. If the part won't conduct electricity DON'T use the polish. Also avoid most wheel cleaners as the harsh chemicals will degrade the anodized finish. Use a product like simple green.

To make anodize look its best a simple coat of wax works well. Although it will attract dust and dirt a light spray of WD40 can make an anodize part (particularly black anodize) look amazing.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
CudaChick1968 said:
Save the smelly kitchen and pissed off wife 66DVert ... your propane torch gets much hotter than any powder coating or high temp ceramic will withstand.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Propane_torch
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cool thanks,,but it's to late she came home with me getting ready to stick the bezel into the oven, luckily I have a cot out in the garage and may have to stay there a night or 2.:glasses7: or maybe 'I'll just take her out to dinner and try and bribe her that way.
 
66Dvert said:
cool thanks,,but it's to late she came home with me getting ready to stick the bezel into the oven, luckily I have a cot out in the garage and may have to stay there a night or 2.:glasses7: or maybe 'I'll just take her out to dinner and try and bribe her that way.
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If it was me, I'D be sleeping on the cot in the garage and letting YOU enjoy the smell of hot anodized bezel all weekend .........
 
In talking to a high end professional metal polisher, those aluminum automotive trim parts are technically not the same "anodize" as let say a blue anodized Aeroquip fitting.

The automotive trim part finish/process is actually called Bright Dip.

Look at a blue anodized Aeroquip fitting. Then look at a aluminum headlight bezel. You'll see the bezel has a thicker coating and it has a gloss to it. You can sand away the blue anodizing much easier than the bright dipped headlight bezel too.

You'll find many anodizing businesses that do not do Bright Dip. Also many Bright Dip places do not have vats large enough for long 3 feet plus pieces.
 
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