Removing gasket from AL heads

-
pishta

pishta

I know I'm right....
Joined
Oct 13, 2004
Messages
23,822
Reaction score
13,680
Location
Tustin, CA
What's the trick? I got a glued on head gasket on a 50 year old AL head and I dont want to wire wheel it for obvious reasons. Plastic spatula isn't making a dent in this gasket. Do i resort to a metal spatula or is there a spray you use to dissolve the gasket, like the old days that is AL safe? Must repair this head anyway, blown gasket eroded fire ring. TIG it back to height and skim cut it? Can't take too much off it due to its design. Iirc it's limit is only .010 (.254mm) as they sell a .010 head shim for this reason.
20220515_202937.jpg
20220515_204013.jpg
 
Yup!

Plain old paint thinners, then plastic Scotchbrite pads.

Works perfect!
 
What is the head, like for what Engine?

I've used a very sharp scraper and very carefully get under the gasket and work it off.
 
Sure its a Hemi...a Mazda hemi! 1972 1.8 out of a Courier/B1800. I'll try the metal paint scraper, just don't want to use a tool that will gouge the aluminum.
 
I usually soak them in my parts cleaner if I’m not in a hurry then carefully use a razor blade scraper. Then while it’s still in my parts cleaner finish it off with wet scotch bright cloth. Don’t hack at it like an axman murderer. Gently, very gently.
 
What's best AL cleaner for these? Wanna get that sandblasted clean look without the abrasion. Simple green? Purple power? EZ off?
 
pishta said:
What's best AL cleaner for these? Wanna get that sandblasted clean look without the abrasion. Simple green? Purple power? EZ off?
Click to expand...


I know Purple Power has lye in it because I ended up in the emergency room after burning my eyes when I got careless. My parts tank has Kerosene in it for the last five years. I use it to burn outside so I change mine out with clean stuff and burn with the dirty stuff. Purple power would probably etch aluminum.
 
Super clean straight and a brass brush is the best way to clean it. Make sure you rinse it good and wear gloves the **** is very caustic to skin.
 
I use a dull razor blade clamped in the end of a vise grips, just be careful.
For final cleanup try a scotchbrite pad soaked in VM&P Naphtha, just be sure to ware gloves
 
Single edge straight razor blade and be patient. I wouldn't use purple power on it. I did scrape the red paint off my ProMAXX heads with both plastic and steel blades as well as paint remover to soften the paint. I wouldn't use brass or stainless brushes that have any stiffness to them, plastic brushes are OK. Maybe some 000 steel wool to get the small bits at the end.
 
A razor blade scraper works really well.
 
Permatex has a gasket remover spray that I was trying to buy local but Auto supply didn't have it. I was actually going to use it to remove a powder coated engine block. Seems to be pretty potent because the powder coat is very hard. I tried heat and some paint stripper but no help with that. Maybe I'll try a torch to see if that works.
 
I quit using 3M Scotchbrite discs years go. GM had quite a warranty issue with bearing failures tied to intake gasket reseal operations. They throw sparks on cast iron. Not the best for aluminum.
 
tonysrt said:
Permatex has a gasket remover spray that I was trying to buy local but Auto supply didn't have it. I was actually going to use it to remove a powder coated engine block. Seems to be pretty potent because the powder coat is very hard. I tried heat and some paint stripper but no help with that. Maybe I'll try a torch to see if that works.
Click to expand...


During my steel mill working days we had a product called “Chisel”. That crap was wicked and like a slime that you did not want to get on you. My old transmission builder loved going to the car wash and using the hot Easter and soap pressure spray. He had a carrier on the back of his truck that he loaded up and headed to the self service car wash.
 
I use aircraft grade seal scraping tools. I think they're Delrin of a similar materiel. You can dig hard, but not hurt the aluminum.
 
Get a carbide faced scraper. There’s a company called super scraper that makes them. Snapon also has one and lisle tools has them you can get off amazon. They don’t wear out. I’ve had mine over 10 years and they still have the same edge as when new
 
I used a wood chisel on one part that is not a gasket face. It tool metal off, easily gouged the AL so im not gonna use that for sure. probably a single edge razor in a plastic scraper handle, slow and careful.
 
pishta said:
I used a wood chisel on one part that is not a gasket face. It tool metal off, easily gouged the AL so im not gonna use that for sure. probably a single edge razor in a plastic scraper handle, slow and careful.
Click to expand...


Slow and careful being the important part. Someone mentioned using a dull razor blade as I’m just the opposite. I like a nice new edge and keep it moist.
 
I use a putty knife with a real sharp edge to it to get the majority of gasket off. Then try to carefully work the rest off without gouging the metal. If the remnants are really glued onto the aluminum, take it to your local machine shop who has a head resurfacer and have them hit it lightly. Not enough to remove any significant amount of aluminum. Just enough to get it clean. Using a sanding block with some sand paper will work too if you're careful, but, you need to do it evenly so everything stays flat. It's easier to have the head resurfacer do it. That way you know the head is not warped.
 
My wife had one of those in high school. I drove it and I swear it had the worlds biggest steering wheel. Every now and then a Sasquatch 4x4 conversion pops up here as they were built in the Seattle area.
 
All of the BMW heads with the old school head gaskets in the late 70’s and early 80’s I took off, I used a new razor blade or 2 and a sanding block after.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top