Removing Vacuum Lines from 1973 Swinger

[jpstewart19]

Does anyone have a clear (newbie) guide or recommendation or solid pics on removing all of the crazy vacuum hoses on a 1973 Dart 225?

I just had my carb rebuild (Woodruff) and want to remove the:

Remove: Vacuum Amplifier, Firewall nonsense, Weird canister (hockey puck) on fender, EGR (Maybe), Exhaust Vac Connector (if not needed)

Keep: Connection to Distributor Vac Advance, Air Filter, charcoal canister

Questions:
- Do I just cap off the connections to the exhaust manifold (2 of them) since one goes to the amplifier and the other the hockey puck thing?
- What should EGR connect to when Vac Amplifier is removed? Should I just remove the EGR now too?
- Plan to connect the distributor vac advance to the carb port in the attached photo..is this correct?

 

[67Dart273]

Well you want to be careful. "I think" the canister has to do with AC/ heating system. DO YOU have a manual? You can download one free, from MyMopar. Several manuals over there including the 73, are there because of the guys right here.

If the EGR valve is seating and sealing, all you need to do is remove the vacuum from it.

HOWEVER if you are somewhere that you "might" experience emissions testing, or might sell your car to someone who will, you better think twice about removing it all.

If you are just concerned about engine performance, you can "fix that" by stringing a new hose from the dist vacuum can to the engine advance port and leaving the rest alone.

 

[jpstewart19]

Thanks for the tip. I went through all of this a while back and never moved forward with it. You have made me rethink it. May just go back to stock for now with the exception of connecting the Dizzy to Carb...thanks

 

[Demonracer]

Is your car still subject to emissions testing in your state & is there anything like Antique Tags in your state? In Texas, if your car is Antique tagged, you aren't subject to state inspections or emissions testing & the license fees are cheaper & are good for 5 years.

 

[Mike69cuda]

One of my friends just cut the hoses and spliced them back together with bolts with the heads cut off on all the stuff he wanted to block. Still looks stock, but doesn’t function.

 

[jpstewart19]

In my county in NC no cars have to do emissions (lucky). However, statewide the general rule is 20+ years, so I'm not overly concerned. I would store everything anyway and fortunately it is a reversible mod. As many people do it, I'm surprised there aren't specific rerouting/capping guides.

 

[volaredon]

Since car owners were never"supposed to" dismantle emissions equipment, there isn't as much talk about "how to" as there could be, because many don't want the finger pointing at them when the guy who gets in trouble and gets caught says "HE" told me to do it....
So we are largely left alone to figure things out on our own. (I've never had any problems with that)

 

[Mike69cuda]

Many years back I had to do a valve job on an 80s ford van I had. The top of the engine was covered with hoses & emissions gadgets. I started tagging all of it then decided to scrap all of it. I had a laundry basket sized box full of stuff that didn’t go back. Boy the engine sure looked cleaner. I ran a vacuum line from the carb to the distributor (like Del said above) & hooked up the ford vacuum heat riser through a ported vacuum switch like it was before. It ran great for many years after that.

 

[67Dart273]

One of my friends just cut the hoses and spliced them back together with bolts with the heads cut off on all the stuff he wanted to block. Still looks stock, but doesn’t function.

Sometimes you can use BB's and punch unubtrusive holes in the hoses to vent them.

 

[Mattax]

I'll add my .02

The best info as to what the car originally had and whateach does is the sticker in the engine compartment - if there is one.
Next, the owners manual.
Then the Factory service manuals and the TSBs.

Remove: Vacuum Amplifier, Firewall nonsense, Weird canister (hockey puck) on fender, EGR (Maybe), Exhaust Vac Connector (if not needed)

Keep: Connection to Distributor Vac Advance, Air Filter, charcoal canister

Questions:
- Do I just cap off the connections to the exhaust manifold (2 of them) since one goes to the amplifier and the other the hockey puck thing?
- What should EGR connect to when Vac Amplifier is removed? Should I just remove the EGR now too?
- Plan to connect the distributor vac advance to the carb port in the attached photo..is this correct?

IMO
Keep the PCV system. That's pretty simple.
Keep the EGR if you can. There's really little loss in keeping it and the cam, timing, fuel mixtures were set assuming that exhaust would be fed back in during cruise conditions. The catch is that its not a full time, all the time thing. Generally EGR systems provide no exhaust recirculation at idle, when engine is cold, and at and near wide open throttle. Those are the controls the EGR vacuum lines connect to. Sounds like your car may have the venturi operated EGR described here 1973 Chrysler Clean Air System Reference page 9 Master Technician's Service Conference (Session 302) or the ported vacuum setup described on the next page. Both have a temprature control valve.
Evap system is great as long as its working. If its sucking charcoal into the carburator then that portion needs to be seperated. The bowl has a vent inside the aircleaner so the carb will still work when the engine is running. 1973 Chrysler Clean Air System Evap
Heated air intake is nice feature in the winter. Important that it opens as air temperature comes up. I think that will hurt performance and economy if the snorkel is always sucking hot air off the exhaust manifold. My point is don't disable it in a position that blocks cooler air entering the snorkel.
OSAC delays timing during part throttle acceleration. Bypassing the delay box will provide improved throttle response and probably better economy.
1973 Imperial and Chrysler Clean Air System Reference Service p 11

 

[jpstewart19]

Sorry for the delayed response, was on vacation. Thank you for the great info