Repop speedo cables (UPDATE)

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EL5DEMON340

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How’s the quality on these , my 71 demon started to bounce slightly after I removed the dash for restoration. I may try cleaning and dry graphite but it’s still a 54 yo cable with 80k .

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You have to watch the end that goes onto the spedo gear the hex is larger than the round one above. So the round one will not fit. Been there.
 
Things to check:

The speedo gear housing has to be properly clocked for the gear you are using.

If it was installed in the wrong position the gear will not make contact with the gear on the shaft.



My needle bounce saga:

My speedo started to bounce at low speeds, then higher and higher, and then you could hear a tick tick tick, I replaced the cable, no change.

There is a bushing (jewel) in the speedo head that fails and allows the cup attached to the speedo needle to move out of place allowing contact with the magnetic part that is rotated with the speedo cable.


This is the cable I used. (67 dart, screw on both ends) You need the later one with the presson speedo end.


But the quality was very good, only thing that was less than great was the firewall grommet was too loose around the speedo cable. I put some black RTV on it to help seal it up.

The new outer sheathing was more flexible BUT not flexible by any means.

THIS IS NOT THE ONE YOU NEED JUST AN IMAGE FOR BRAND - OER/CLASSIC IND

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15 years or so ago when I needed a speedo cable for my 67 I couldn't find one at all, new or used.
I bought a new one for a 67 c-body, maybe it was b-body, but the quality was high and still going strong. Looks identical to the original just a bit longer.

Recently bought one, then two, now on my third, for my b-body and it's plastic garbage.
 

Vans Auto has A body lengths with the Hex hut for the transmission end, if your still looking. I don't like the knurl knob myself.
 
I was going to ask what would one do with the excess length. A cable that will fit a C body will be a good bit more than A-body ( 63" I think). Good luck
 
Brewer's has NOS. They're 3 times the price of the repops, but...
Exactly. Speedo cable for my Dart, inexpensive (cheap) and I'm on my 3rd one, hoping it will last.

An NOS one at 3 times the price I'd be out the same amount, if the 3rd one lasts.
 
One thing to consider on the speedo end is routing. Try to have it come into the speedo as straight as possible, maybe even wire tie it in place for a while and some hot days to set the curve into the outer sheathing.
 
I was going to ask what would one do with the excess length. A cable that will fit a C body will be a good bit more than A-body ( 63" I think). Good luck
Yep my A body inner cable measures 62”, and I’m guessing 63” is about correct on the total length. The Napa one that a previous post mentioned is 5” longer ?
 
The longer speedo cable on mine allows me to route it so it comes in straight-er to the 4 speed and route it around headers and other obstacles.
 
The longer speedo cable on mine allows me to route it so it comes in straight-er to the 4 speed and route it around headers and other obstacles.
Well ofcourse some need something other than OEM. We've seen speedometer cables routed over and around automatic trans to avoid headers. Cheers
 
Just installed the one Rick sells on eBay. Comes with grommet that was slit so you can get it over the cable and instructions. Instructions say to lube with chassis lube but I cleaned the inner cable and outer housing and lubed with dry graphite went in easy and and speedo no longer jumps around. Only thing every once in a while if I go in reverse at a faster pace and for a 100 or so feet then go forward it sometimes goes to 15 or 20 mph when I just start to move forward. I have only driven around the subdivision at around 20/30mph for around 4 miles but so far looks okay.

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I just cant imaginr dry graphite would work. This isn't brake cable travel8ng lengthwise a inch in the sheath. Spinning cable will generate heat and wear the inside of the shea5h, generate more heat. Good luck with it
 
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